There’s no need to keep buying water when you’re thirsty thanks to a scheme that will let you top up at local shops and businesses.
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Though the summer took a while to get going yet this year (and rain is always around the corner) there have been some been fantastically sunny and hot days in the last month. And that means it’s more important than normal to keep hydrated when out and about.
Yes, a chilled coke can be good, and apparently, a hot drink will help lower your body temperature. But personally I’ll always prefer to have a nice cold water.
But buying bottled water isn’t always cheap. Yes, you can pick up a chilled own-brand 500ml bottle from supermarkets for around 70p, but that’s way more than it would have cost a few years ago. And you’ll be paying way over £1 at coffee shops and corner shops.
For those still commuting to the office, buying just two bottles a day during a working week could easily cost £10, if not more.
And it’s not good for the environment either. The organisation City to Sea estimates that UK households buy 480 plastic bottles a year, and only half get recycled. So it’s better for both your wallet and your conscious is to reuse either a “single-use” bottle, or buy a tougher one designed to be used again and again.
But if you’re not at home or work with access to a tap, where do you top up your bottle? Well, I’ve got some info to help you find out where you can hand over your bottle and get it refilled up for nothing.
Look for the Refill symbol
In recent years I’ve spotted more and more of the Refill logo in the windows and doors of cafes, pubs and even places like gyms.
This logo means you’ll be able to get a refill of your water bottle for absolutely nothing. You can also plan in advance by downloading the Refill app which has a searchable map.
There are apparently over 330,000 businesses operating as “Refill Stations” in the UK, including brands such as Costa, McDonalds, Starbucks and Greggs.
Look for this Refill logo to get free water
Restaurants and bars – your rights
Of course, not everywhere will have the logo – but that doesn’t mean you can’t get free water. It’s always worth asking places if they’ll top up your bottle, though it’s always better to do this if you’ve been a customer.
Though spending money doesn’t mean you are entitled to free water. Restaurants and cafes don’t even have to give you free water with your meal unless they are licensed premises.
If they do serve booze then they must have it available, but they can charge for service if they wish. And it doesn’t mean it’ll be very good tap water. I’ve eaten in places where the water is not great at all, and not even that cold. Still, it can help keep costs down.
Find public fountains
The Refill app also has an option to help you locate public fountains.
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Filling up at airports
Though you can’t take liquids over 100ml with you then you go airside (though that might be changing), you can bring empty bottles. You should then be able to fill up your water bottles once you’re through security.
Not all airports have fountains, and they’re not always easy to find, but I’ve usually managed to bring a bottle or two through to ensure I can stay hydrated on long-haul flights, and avoid the sky-high charges you get on budget airlines.
Save money without sacrificing the protection you give your skin.
Is a branded suncreen any better than a supermarket’s own version? And what should you be thinking about other than the SPF number?
I’ve taken a look at how to make sure you’re not overspending but still getting the right protection.
What makes a decent sun cream?
SPF and UVB rays
When you’re going to buy suncream there’s probably only one number you really pay attention to. The big one on the front – the SPF number. Sun Protection Factor.
This ranges from around four or five all the way through to fifty plus. The number which medical groups recommend is at least thirty.
What the SPF number specifically shows is the protection you get against Ultraviolet B rays – or UVB. These are the rays that generally will burn your skin.
Basically the higher the number is, the greater the protection, the longer the protection you’re going to get from these rays.
“Star ratings” and UVA rays
There’s actually more than one type of UV ray coming from the sun. What you should also be looking for when you’re buying your suncream is protection against UVA – Ultraviolet A – rays.
This is the stuff that’s meant to premature age you, the stuff that causes you to get those lines caused by the sun. It will hopefully say both UVA and UVB on the packet.
But how do you know how good that protection is? Because SPF isn’t anything to do with the UVA. Instead, you look for some stars. Bigger packs hopefully have it on the front, though it might be on the back of smaller ones.
You should be looking for at least four stars. That’s going to give you the protection that you need.
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Is more expensive suncream better?
Now if you’ve got at least factor 30 on the UVB and then you’ve got at least four stars on the UVA then all the sun creams are pretty much the same. At least they’re doing the same thing anyway in terms of protecting you from the sun’s rays.
So whether you’re going into Aldi or Asda and you’re spending a couple of quid or whether you’re spending nearly ten quid by getting some posh brands, they’re not really doing anything different.
The best buys were from Boots, Nivea and LIdl, all relatively affordable. The only real difference they found between them is that some of the cheaper ones can feel a bit greasy when you apply them to your skin. Or they smell not fantastic when you apply them, so you might want to try some different ones and pay a bit more money.
So just because it’s a brand it’s not necessarily any better than an own brand from one of the chemists or supermarkets.
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Effective 6.45% rate for six months as a new Raisin customer
One extra thing to think about when you’re buying your sun cream is the size of the bottle. In terms of getting value for money the bigger bottles will often work out cheaper per unit, usually per ml, So you’d think the bigger the bottle the better the deal.
But that’s not necessarily the case. On the back of most of your sun creams, you’ll see a little drawing of a pot. You see it on lots of cosmetics as well. This little round pot with an open lid and in there it will give a little number. If it says “12m” it stands for twelve months. Most sun creams are meant to last between 12 and 18 months.
Time actually reduces how strong the cream is. The bottle might say thirty on the front but if it’s two or three years old it won’t be delivering that kind of protection.
And it’s worth bearing in mind that if you leave your suncream out in the sun then that’s going to make it last a shorter amount of time as well.
So will you actually use the cream up in that time? Or will you, like I have in the past, have half-used bottles sitting at the back of the cupboard until the next year?
Big families, or people spending a lot of time in the sun, are probably better off buying big bottles at the start of each summer, and then buying smaller ones as the summer ends. And people who aren’t out in the sun much might be better off just buying smaller packs. Of course, it’s important to apply the right amount – so don’t scrimp.
When you go on holiday there’s bound to be something you forget – but I’d much rather leave behind my toothbrush than head overseas without checking off these money matters from my holiday checklist.
It’s all stuff that will probably affect you too, so here’s my finance related to-do list to help you think about what you still need to do.
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Find my GHIC
Because of Brexit, the old European Health Insurance Cards (EHIC) are no longer valid. But in their place is the GHIC – Global Health Insurance Card. And despite the name, it’s essential for trips to Europe.
One of these cards will get you access to healthcare at the same prices as a local. That’s vital, not just in terms of saving money, but also to ensure your travel insurance will validate any claims.
If you already have one, check the expiry date. Each summer holidaymakers find out too late for their trip that they should have renewed their card.
If you need a new one, watch out for websites charging you to apply – they’re scamming you. Instead, apply or renew for free through gov.uk.
You’ll also need to check that your destination is covered. As mentioned, the name Global is deceptive. It’s still just Europe, and even then not every European country comes under the agreement, so it’s always worth checking.
Check my insurance
Sadly, a GHIC isn’t enough on its own. You still needed full travel insurance.
A mistake people often make is waiting until a few days before they travel to get insurance. Though you’d be covered if something went wrong when you were away, you’re at risk of missing out if your airline went bust, lost your job and couldn’t afford to go, or if you were too ill to travel. So get it as soon as you book!
I know it’s a pain, but do read the summary documents at least so you can see what is and what isn’t covered, and by how much. It’s often a case that cheapest isn’t best, especially if you can’t actually use it if something goes wrong.
If you’re going away multiple times this year it might be worth considering annual policies, but for a single weekend or fortnight then a shorter policy will suffice. Likewise, don’t buy a worldwide policy if you’re only going to Europe.
Also make sure you’re not covered elsewhere. Some credit cards and current accounts come with travel insurance (though again, check what the policy actually covers), while some home insurance policies will include partial cover that might mean you don’t need extras on things like possessions outside of the home.
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Check passports and visas
It’s obviously vital to check your passport is still valid, but it’s often not as simple as having not expired. Some countries require you to have at least six months left on it when you travel, while in Europe it can’t be more than 10 years old – even if there are plenty of months left.
It’s well worth checking this regularly, or putting a reminder in your calendar, for a good few months ahead of it expiring or reaching those milestones as delays at the passport office could make it tight to get a new one issued before you travel.
And while you’re at it, make sure you don’t need a visa to enter your destination. There may be a small cost for this.
Buy an international driving permit
Another post-Brexit rule is the requirement in Europe to have a UK sticker on your car if you’re taking it across the channel – that’s the case even if you have a GB or EU flag on your number plate already.
If you’re hiring abroad you’ll need to get a DVLA code, while some countries might also need to buy an international driving permit. These have never been checked when we’ve had one, but it’s worth the £5.50 (plus a passport photo) cost to be safe. You can get one at the Post Office.
Oh, and buying a separate car hire excess insurance before you go will often be far cheaper than adding one on when you get to the car hire desk.
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You don’t really need to let your card provider know you’re going away anymore, especially for those designed to be used abroad.
Order travel money
I rarely take much money with me. A lot has usually been prepaid already, and I’ll use my specialist travel credit card where I can, but I also want to have some cash on me.
Usually, I only take a little, just incase there’s an issue with cards at the airport when I arrive. But I’ll check destinations to see if there’s a chance of ATM issues. That’s more likely in far-flung destinations.
The best way to find the top exchange rates is to use Money Saving Expert’s TravelMoneyMaxcomparison tool. You’ll get the best options in London, though even preordering from the airport will be at a better rate than just rocking up.
Here’s more on getting the best from travel money, including why you should never, ever just exchange when you go to get your flight.
Sort out my phone
Before the days of free-roaming I used to switch off voicemail and turn off any data options before leaving the country – the costs of using both overseas were exorbitant. Sadly for many networks that’s the case once again.
Right now I’m on O2 with the added Volt package that comes from also being a Virgin Media broadband customer so I actually still get to use my allowance in Europe and a handful of other countries. You might not be so lucky.
Check what the deal is for your network and act accordingly. It can often work out better to pre-buy an add-on that gives a certain allowance or caps charges.
How to find out if you’re better off with a meter or set rates.
Water meters can really divide people. Sometimes they can save you a decent chunk of cash every year, but others will see their bills rocket when one is installed.
I’ve always been unsure about them, but now after a few years of being charged for the water I use, I can share with you whether it was worth it for me, and how to estimate what one could mean for you. Plus I’ve some tips to help you reduce your usage and bring bills down further.
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Who can get a water meter?
For most homes in England and Wales you can ask your water company to fit a water meter. It’s normally completely up to you. However, some water companies, including Thames Water, have made it compulsory.
It’s free to get a water meter installed in England and Wales. You’ve usually got one to two years after installation to compare costs. If you find it’s costing you more, you can switch back to your standard rates. That is of course unless you’re in an area with compulsory metering.
Some water meters are smart meters that let you monitor use. Others need to be read by the water company and you have to wait for your bill to find out charges.
In Northern Ireland your water rates are already included and in Scotland a water meter installation isn’t free.
Should you get a water meter?
So how do you know if one is good for you? Well, non-metered water is charged based on the size of your house – a bit like council tax. Water meters on the other hand measure exactly how much you are using.
A simple rule of thumb to decide which is for you is if there are more bedrooms than there are people living in a house. If so then you’re likely to be paying more than you need to for your water.
If you want to get a more accurate picture, then there’s also an online calculator. That’s what I looked at before deciding whether to give the meter a go.
The calculator will give you a rough total which is estimated on exactly how many showers you have a week, how many times you use the dishwasher, washing machine, baths, how many times you flush the toilet and so on.
The problem is if you have more people in a house than there are bedrooms or people use water a lot – maybe you’re a keen gardener regularly using the hose – then it’s very likely to cost you more money.
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Because only two of us are living in a four-bedroom house there was always a good chance we’d be paying less with a water meter.
Back in the summer of 2018, before we switched, our annual bill was £590. The calculator estimated a new cost of £376 a year via a meter, a huge saving of £214. So it was a no-brainer for us to give this a try.
Frustratingly, we couldn’t read the meter ourselves, and there was no bill at all for the first 13 months!! When it arrived the total for that first year was pretty close to the estimate at £390. A little more than the estimate, but we were still saving a fair wedge of cash each year.
However, since then, our water usage – and our bills – have varied. Water usage in 2019 was 102m3, but a massive 123m3 in 2020 (probably due to lockdowns). This meant our bill jumped up to £480. Still a decent saving, but not as large.
In 2022, usage was down to 78m3, costing £324. Then it went up again in 2023, the most recent bill I’ve got, to 91m3 and a total of £425.
That’s still a massive annual difference of £165 compared to our non-metered charge from back in 2018! And since prices for unmetered rates have increased every year, the actual saving will be far higher.
When I think back to my previous house, where I lived for close to eight years, if we’d switched then and got similar savings we could have been close to a grand better off.
But – bear in mind my savings are based on the water usage of two people. I’ve played around with the calculator to estimate the cost if more people lived here. It’s still cheaper with three adults, but it could easily be £70 or £80 extra each year with four people than the fixed rates. So it’s important you check for your own circumstances.
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How to reduce costs when you have a water meter
If you’ve already got a meter because you’ve moved into a house with a meter, had one for more than two years or compulsory installations are happening, well there are still ways you can cut your bills and it’s very very simple. You use less water.
There are obvious things you can do. For example, turning off the tap when you clean your teeth, or it’s making sure that you don’t necessarily flush the loo every single time. There’s that phrase “if it’s yellow let it mellow, if it’s brown flush it down”. It might sound a bit rough… but it’s true that you don’t necessarily need to flush it every time – and that will save some water.
Free water saving devices
In fact there are all sorts of things you can get which can help you use less water. From special bags that go in the water cistern to reduce the flush through to shower timers. There are even slow release crystals you can put in plant pots which mean you don’t need to water them as often. And they are free from most water companies.
For most providers you can go via Save Water Save Money and enter your postcode. You’ll see what’s available and what you can order for free. Alternatively, just google your water company and see if they offer anything for customers.
The Halifax Reward account offers a monthly reward. This has changed over the years — it currently offers a choice of £5 in your account, a cinema ticket or three digital magazines each month.
Plus, you can get three accounts and therefore three lots of the bonus, but you have to jump through a few hoops. Here’s everything you need to know.
What is the Halifax Reward current account?
The Halifax Reward account is a fee-based account that gives you a choice of freebies each month. You can only have three accounts in your name.
How much does the Halifax Reward Account cost?
The Reward account charges a £3 monthly fee, meaning it’ll cost you £36 a year. This isn’t unusual – many current accounts with benefits have a similar charge, including Barclays Blue Rewards, Natwest Reward and Club Lloyds.
However, you won’t pay the fee if you deposit £1,500 every month. This should be fine for most people if you have your salary paid into your account – you need to earn just under £21,500 a year to take home this amount after tax and National Insurance.
If not, you can pay in a smaller amount from another account, e.g. £500, withdraw it, pay it back in, then repeat it once more.
What rewards do you get?
To be eligible for one of the Reward Extras you’ll need to either spend £500 a month on your debit card or keep £5,000 in the account every day of the month.
You also need to pay in £1,500 a month every month to get your reward (and avoid the fee). You also need to keep your account in credit.
If you do these then you get to pick a reward. These are:
Three digital magazines a month from a selection of Hearst magazine titles (eg Good Housekeeping, Red)
One Vue cinema ticket a month (each valid for 12 months)
£5 a month
The one you choose is fixed for a year, so you can’t mix and match throughout the year. You can choose a new reward at the start of each 12-month anniversary.
It’s possible to track the progress towards your reward in the app so you know if you’re going to get it or not each month. You’ll also find when your 12 months are due to end so you can choose a new reward (if you want to change it).
Extra cashback offers
You can activate offers from a handful of retailers to earn cashback if spending with your Halifax card. I’ve hardly ever used it, but I check from time-to-time to see which shops are on there, just in case.
Switching bonus
Halifax tends to run a switching deal two or three times a year, usually offering between £100 and £175. Get details of how it works, and any future promotions, in our Halifax switching offer analysis article.
£5 a month profit is better than similar rewards on offer elsewhere – as long as you are avoiding that monthly fee. That adds up to £60 over the year, which might be a lower value than the other options but you have the freedom to spend it how you wish.
The money is paid into your account each month. It’s worth noting that if you are a higher rate taxpayer you’ll be liable to pay extra tax on this bonus.
Free cinema ticket
The code you’ll get each month is valid for a year, and you can use two or more at the same time, saving on a family trip. They can also be used for pricier 3D screenings or VIP seats, increasing the value.
Standard Vue cinema ticket prices can vary between a fiver through to well over a tenner, and even more for the posh seats – it all depends on where you live.
If you’re paying close to a fiver, you’re better off getting the cash option – that’ll give you the flexibility to go to different cinemas (or not go at all).
But if you have an expensive Vue cinema near you and go once a month then the value of this reward could be pretty decent. Say your tickets are £10 that’s an annual reward worth £120. If VIP tickets are £18 it’s worth £216.
Even so, it’s possible to save on cinema tickets in lots of different ways, and those deals could work out as a better option. For example two-for-one tickets via Meerkat Movies or free Vue tickets via a Telegraph trial. Here’s our guide to the best ways to save at the cinema.
Our podcast
Listen to Cash Chats, our award-winning podcast, presented by Editor-in-chief Andy Webb and Deputy Editor Amelia Murray.
You can choose your three titles from this selection:
Cosmopolitan
Country Living
ELLE
ELLE Decoration
Esquire
Good Housekeeping
Harper’s Bazaar
House Beautiful
Men’s Health
Prima
Red
Runner’s World
Women’s Health
Your picks will be digital-only, so you’ll need a tablet or computer to read them. The three magazines you choose at the start of the year will be the same ones you’ll get all year.
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Spend or save: Which is best?
So you could be making anything from £60 a year (taking £5 a month) through to £200 (for top-end Vue tickets) from this account. But you need to factor in the requirement that you either need to spend or save a lot of money each month with Halifax. Here’s my take on each option.
Have £5,000 in savings
The option of £5,000 a month in your account seems relatively simple. Do this every month for a year and the £60 cash reward is the same return as putting that money in a 1.2% savings account. There are much better savings accounts on the market where this money might be better suited.
But I’m not a fan of this method. For a start that money has to stay there every single day of the month. So whether you need to use it, or the balance accidentally dips after a large purchase, you don’t get the reward.
The alternative is to spend £500 a month on your debit card. Do this exactly and you’ll earn £60 a year (if you take the cash option). That’s the equivalent of 1% cashback – so no real difference to using the top cashback cards.
However, if you spend more than £500 you won’t earn any extra money, reducing your equivalent rate. So do you just spend £500 and stop, then move over to your alternative card?
There are a couple of workarounds here that allow you to effectively earn double cashback on that £500 monthly spend.
Very simply, if you have a cashback credit card, you use your Halifax debit card to pay £500 off the bill every month. I’ve done this for the last year now and it works – you’ve just got to remember to do this before your direct debit for your card goes out of your account. I actually moved my Amex payment date from the start of the month to the middle to give me a bit more leeway.
I quite like the Halifax app as you can do pretty much everything on it without needing to log on via a desktop. Some of the key features:
Sharing bank details
You can send your sort code and account number via the app. There’s no option to copy these in the app, so you’ll need to share them to another app (eg notes or messages) and copy from there.
Card controls
All the main options are here:
View PIN and request new one
View and copy card details
Freeze card use abroad, online and / or in-person
Stop gambling payments
Set your own contactless limit
Alerts
You can get notifications for:
Debit card transactions
Weekly spending summaries
Money paid in and out
Sending and adding money
It’s easy to transfer cash to new and existing payees, and there’s no need for a card reader. You can scan a cheque using the app to add the cash to your account.
Insights and budgeting
There’s an easy-to-find option to see all your upcoming payments in one place, how much they add up to and when they’ll be paid. You can also manage and cancel subscriptions in the app – the ones paid via a debit card rather than a standing order or Direct Debit.
Tapping on a transaction will show on a map where it took place.
You can see seven years of transaction history on the app, which you can also search. It’s possible to export monthly statements from when you opened the account but only as PDFs.
Other features
You can also:
Use Face or Touch ID
Change personal details
Add accounts from other banks via Open Banking (just the major high street banks)
However, when compared to the likes of Starling and Monzo, the big absence is the lack of separate pots or spaces. All your money is together in the main account.
Summary: Should you get it?
Andy’s Analysis
If you have £5k to save or already use a cashback card for spending, then the £5 reward isn’t better than what you can get elsewhere.
But thanks to the debit card hack, I think it’s well worth getting one of these accounts to claim the reward alongside your other cashback card. And then another two times with additional accounts.
Plus the app is actually really decent and does most things you’ll need. So all in this is a good account to have and perhaps even use as your main account.
Amazon’s member’s only sale is back this month, but can you actually save any money?
As with Black Friday, there’s quite a frenzy when it comes to Amazon’s Prime Day sale. There are often an awful lot of offers in just about every category, with a lot of them seeming to have huge discounts so it’s easy to buy things that you don’t really need.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing if you can afford it and will use the things you buy. But, despite the discount advertised, you may actually be getting a bargain? We’ve taken a look at some of the offers from last year to find out if Prime Day is just a deception.
Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.
What is Prime Day?
Amazon Prime Day is an annual sale to celebrate Amazon’s birthday, although they’ve started to sneak another into October. It’s only for customers signed up to Amazon Prime. This comes at a cost: £95 for a year, £8.99 a month or newbies can take out a 30-day free trial.
This year, Prime Day is on 16 and 17 July. Offers will go live from midnight and run for 48 hours.
There will be some deals across both days as well as “Lightening” offers that will come and go. There will also be a few early offers in the days leading up to the sale.
How good are Prime Day deals?
There are two parts to Prime Day offers. The first are extra savings and offers, such as an extra £5 off here, or £10 credit there. These can really help bring down prices, but over the last few years there haven’t been too many of these. That could well change in 2024, and we’ll let you know on our Amazon Deals page if they do.
The other part, and the bulk of the offers you’ll see are discounted items. And there are thousands of these. I’ve taken a look at some of last year’s best offers and reached out to both the Be Clever With Your Cash and our sister site Smart Money People‘s teams to find out some of the (so-called) bargains they’ve blagged. I’ve used the price comparison site CamelCamelCamel to work out which of them got a great deal, which ones went down to the same prices eventually and who got fobbed off.
A quick caveat: CamelCamelCamel’s price history doesn’t include Prime Day or Lightning Deal prices. This means that there’s a chance that lower prices have occurred. Even so, the site gives us a good indication of the usual selling prices. More on CamelCamelCamel further down.
Prime Day 2023 offers analysed
When we asked colleagues for some items they’d bought on Amazon last year for Prime Day, it turned out none of us at Be Clever With Your Cash had bought a single item during Prime Day last year. Seeing as we’re all dedicated bargain hunters, that says a lot. But some of our colleagues at Smart Money People did shop in the sale, so here’s how their purchases rate.
Echo Pop
Prime Day Price: £29.00
Lowest price since: £17.99
Price now: £44.99
The consensus: she missed out on a great deal
Sara at Smart Money People bought herself an Echo Pop on Prime Day last year. The smart speaker costs £44.99 at the time of writing. Sara nabbed it for £29.99 in the sale, reckoning that she saved about £20 on the purchase. Since this was a new product it was a hefty discount.
But just three months later, the Echo Pop was selling for just £17.99 — she could have saved herself £11 more if she’d waited.
Anker Powerbank
Prime Day Price: £19.99
Lowest price since: £27.99 (11 months later)
Price now: £27.99
The consensus: lowest price all year
Another item Sara picked up on Prime Day was an Anker Powerbank for £19.99, reckoning she’d saved herself about £10 on it. The power bank is being sold for £27.99 right now and that’s also the lowest price it’s been since. So she managed to grab herself the lowest price on that item all year.
Garmin Venu watch
Prime Day Price: £259.99
Lowest price since: £244.99 (5 months later)
Price now: No longer available. It was £369.99 before removal but is now available at many retailers for £249
The consensus: a fair price
Sophie, Senior Insight Analyst at Smart Money People bought herself a Garmin 2S last year on Prime Day at £53.44 less than the advertised price, spending £259.99.
The CamelCamelCamel graph below suggests that she picked up a huge saving with the same watch costing far more for most of the last 12 months.
However, that dotted line shows Amazon didn’t actually sell it that often after Prime Day, which suggests it was a stock clearance price rather than a special deal. In fact the S3 was released soon after.
An alternative colour did keep selling though, often between £260 and £300, so while her watch wasn’t really available from Amazon at the listed £310 price, it looks like it was a decent price at the time.
Ultrasport F-Bike
Prime Day Price: £79.99
Lowest price since: £99.99 (2 months later)
Price now: Unavailable – was £100.99 before it was pulled
The consensus: a decent deal
A friend of mine, Jen bought herself an UltraSport F-Bike on Prime Day last year. The Bike was £133.99 at the time and was reduced to £79.99 on Prime Day. This was the lowest price on this item since 2016. It was never reduced as far as this before it was removed from Amazon, so Jen got herself a pretty good price.
Apple Airpods
Prime Day Price: £169.99
Lowest price since: £149.99 (8 months later)
Price now: £169.99
The consensus: the price went down anyway
One of the top advertised deals for Prime Day last year were these Apple Airpods. They were £189.99 before Prime Day and you could get them for £169.99 on Prime Day — not a bad deal, but if you tried to buy them today, they’re selling at Apple’s new retail price of £169.99, so the price was going to go down eventually anyway.
There was a brief time when they were £149.99, which could have saved you an extra £20 on them, but this was eight months after the Prime Day price.
But remember that technology has new upgrades all the time – the 3rd Generation pair are still the latest ones, but there’s likely to be a 4th Generation set out soon.
Barbie DreamPlane
Prime Day Price: £52.99
Lowest price since: £39.79 (1 month later)
Price now: £65.99
The consensus: you could’ve saved more by waiting
Another deal heavily advertised by Amazon last year was this Barbie DreamPlane, a toy that would’ve been on the top of my Birthday wishlist as a kid! This was sold on Prime Day last year for £52.99, down from £74.39 — a £21.40 saving on the original price — surely Amazon didn’t go lower than that.
Just a month later, the Barbie DreamPlane was up for £39.79, so waiting just a little longer would’ve saved you an extra £13.20.
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Other items
Here are some of the items we analysed for this, including whisky, an IPL Hair Removal Device and the Shark vacuum.
While it’s easy to get sucked in by some great-looking prices, last year’s big deals weren’t always the best prices offered, with a lot of items getting reduced further just a few months later for Black Friday.
It’s always frustrating when something is cheaper in a subsequent sale, and Amazon doesn’t appear to be offering partial refunds if something you bought goes down just days later (as it does over Black Friday).
Saying that, most of these prices were pretty strong at the time, so if you need an item now it could be a good time to buy. So on this basis, I’d say Prime Day deals can be fairly decent.
Of course, that’s only if you’re not buying items on a whim. This whole sale is designed to get you to part with your cash so be wary of any impluse spending.
And you should still do some quick research into whether you have a good price. Importantly, don’t trust the RRP — these are rarely the real selling prices. Instead, use price history to see what your real discount is — more on this below. Essentially, you’re looking for:
a discount bigger than the usual selling price
items that are rarely discounted
something which isn’t about to be replaced by a newer version – bigger discounts could be on the way
a price you’re happy to pay
something you actually want and need
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In a lot of cases with the above items, the prices dropped again on Black Friday, sometimes further. Amazon has recently started to throw an extra Prime Day into October, with Black Friday deals too. Prices will likely be pretty similar on core Amazon devices.
Ultimately, if you see something on Prime Day at a price you are happy to pay, it probably makes sense to pick it up rather than wait. While there’s a chance you’ll miss out on a few quid, there’s also the risk that the item won’t be reduced in November!
How to find the best prices
As you’ll see from the graphs above, there are tools to help you work out whether a deal really is a deal. Here are our best picks of what you can use.
Check price history
The strangely named CamelCamelCamel is what we’ve used for the price history charts. It’s essential for helping to work out whether you’re likely to see a further drop.
You can also use it to set price alerts for when items hit a level you want to pay, though as mentioned, it doesn’t include Lightning Deals or Prime Day prices, which is a shame.
Though the Prime Day prices will only be available to Prime members (remember you can get a free trial if you aren’t already, or sign up for one month at £8.99), other retailers might match prices or even offer their own deals to try to get some money spent with them rather than with the US giant.
It’s worth using Idealo, Price Spy or even just Google Shopping to see how much the item is selling for elsewhere. And don’t forget to see if you can stack other codes and savings on top!
Beat others to Lightning Deals
A lot of the offers you’ll see will be Lightning Deals with a limited quantity and limited time to grab them. Amazon obviously want to rush you into buying these offers, but there are ways to get the product in your basket before everyone else and still have time to check price history.
2024 Prime Day deals
We regularly update our Amazon Deals page with all the top offers we spot, both ahead of the day and once the sale kicks off.
There are already some early bird offers that are worth checking out.
Most of the time paying your bill by direct debit will save you money – but if you’re not careful they can also end up costing you hard earned cash.
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When direct debits aren’t the best idea
“Pay by direct debit to save” is a message you’ll see on most bills. And most of the time it’s true. From gas and electricity to magazine subscriptions and gallery memberships, you’ll find lots of places will give you a discount if you set up these regular payments.
But there some high profile instances where it’s actually better to pay the whole amount upfront.
Insurance is the worst offender. If you pay in installments you’re borrowing the money to pay for the cover, and then getting charged interest. So the vast majority of the time it’ll cost you more money.
And some direct debits can be estimated – meaning you pay more than you actually should. Energy bills are the main culprits here, and you could end up with more money on your account that you’ve actually spent.
I’ve broken down some of the times it’s bad to split your payments by direct debit, and when you can make a saving by using them. It won’t be the case for every company, so make sure you check the terms and conditions.
Regular payments that aren’t direct debits
You might think that any payment you set up to leave your account on a regular basis is a direct debit, but they aren’t.
If you’ve used the long number on your debit or credit card that’s known as a continuous payment authority (CPA), or if you’ve set up a regular transfer between different accounts that is probably a standing order.
There can be advantages of using these options, and in many cases you won’t actually be able to choose between them – for example, streaming service subscriptions are pretty much all CPAs.
Which direct debits are bad?
You will usually be charged extra money on each of the following if you choose to pay by direct debit as you’re effectively taking out a loan for the product.
Insurance policies – from home and contents to travel and car, making a monthly payment adds interest meaning you pay more.
Car and vehicle tax – Pay for the full year for the cheapest price. There’s a 5% surcharge if you pay in monthly or 6-monthly instalments. However you can still set up a direct debit for a 12-month payment to make sure you don’t forget. All the different costs are here.
Mobile phone handsets – it’s not always the case but you’ll usually pay less overall if you pay upfront for the handset rather than get it as part of a contract.
White goods – rent to own services charge extortionate interest when you buy a TV or washing machine.
Alternative ways to spread the cost
If not a direct debit, what? Well paying for a full year in one go for car insurance or a new phone can be pretty expensive. Ideally you’ll have planned for these as most are expected costs and have the cash available in your savings The easiest way to do this is to calculate the annual costs for there services and split it by 12. This is how much you need to save into a separate pot each month to cover the costs.
But if you don’t have the savings to pay for them? If you can get a 0% purchase credit card it’s a good way to spread the payments without getting charged. You will need to make minimum payments each month, and make sure you have a plan to clear the borrowing before the 0% period ends. Fail to do both of these and the charges can be sky-high.
Or you could borrow from a friend or family member – just make sure you do pay them back!
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When direct debits are good
Of course, on the whole, direct debits are good and can save you money or help you budget. They’re also protected by the direct debit guarantee. This means if something goes wrong, perhaps you’re charged too much, you’ll get the money back.
These are the key services where you could be given an extra discount for paying in regular instalments.
Gas and electricity bills – these charges will be estimated so give regular meter readings to make sure you don’t get caught out by paying too little or too much. You can contact your supplier and ask for a refund if you have a decent balance.
Credit card repayments – you won’t forget to make your monthly payments this way! Try to clear the whole balance, or at least as much as you can afford, rather than the minimum required.
Magazine and streaming subscriptions – Monthly payments give you the option to cancel at any time. Just don’t forget to do this or you’ll roll over for another month or year.
Memberships – e.g. gym, galleries and clubs. Watch out for auto-renewal here too.
Donations to charities – though if you can give via Payroll Giving at work you’ll be able to give before you get taxed.
Then there are a few where it doesn’t make much a difference – well you don’t make a saving. However, paying for the following by direct debit will help you spread the cost over 12 months.
Council Tax – you can ask to pay this over 12 months rather than the default 10 months if you want consistency each month
Remember a direct debit means the amount can vary each month, but a standing order is for a fixed amount. It’s important to make sure you have enough money in your account before committing to a direct debit to avoid penalties for going overdrawn.
From the ballot to the queue, here’s how to get in at SW19
Wimbledon is one of the highlights of my summer, even though getting a ticket to see the tennis isn’t always cheap or easy – but you can do it on a budget.
Here are my top tips for getting a ticket.
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Me having just got into the grounds in 2018.
1. Go in the first week
In terms of value for money, the best way in my experience is to go towards the end of the first week (which this year starts on Monday 1 July).
At this point, the tournament will be in the second or third round where the players will be much more evenly matched. Round one games, especially with the top seeds, can often be a whitewash.
If you want to experience Centre Court, the cheapest tickets are for the first couple of days.
2. Try to buy last-minute tickets
If you’re looking to guarantee a ticket before heading out, such as if you live a little further afield, then last minute ticket options might be an option.
Try your luck the day before
Some tickets are typically sold a day or two before, but there’s no details on the website about them just yet. You normally need to download the official Wimbledon app to get them, so it’s worth downloading and signing up to prep.
American Express cardholder tickets
American Express cardholders might be able to grab themselves some last-minute tickets to Centre Court during the tournament. It’s not been confirmed for 2024 yet, but if it’s running again any sales will be revealed on Amex socials this year, so give them a follow.
Ballot tickets
You might still be able to get access to returned ballot tickets – these will be restricted to those who were unsuccessful in the ballot. Those who are eligible will get an email detailing how to access the resale.
In previous years the resale was via Ticketmaster and you needed to be quick. Several hundred tickets for Centre Court and Court 3 went on sale at 9am the day before. Returns for the same courts went on sale roughly 48 hours before the start of play, also via Ticketmaster.
It’s a good idea to sign up for the Wimbledon newsletter to be the first to know of any extra ticket releases.
3. Join the queue
The queue is a great way to nab yourself some great tickets on the day. It’s an early start, especially if you live outside of London, but it’s quite an experience in itself – you even get a booklet on how to queue (how British!).
It’s first-come, first… serve (sorry) so the earlier you join the queue the better. If you want a show court you’ll need to be there overnight. A limited number of tickets are available for Centre, No.1 and No.2 Courts. Only one ticket can be bought per person, so you need to be queuing together to get more than one.
For other tickets, well the earlier the better is still the case. Historically, we’ve arrived at around 7am, and didn’t get into the grounds until just gone 1pm! But for most of that time we were just sat in the sun in a field which was actually really nice – just bring a book! There are toilets, food outlets and water refill stations.
Gates open gradually from 9.45am and play normally starts on outer courts around 11am. There’s usually a comprehensive guide to the queue on the Wimbledon website which details how it’s handled.
This year you’ll need to download the Wimbledon app and sign into a MyWimbledon account so it’s worth doing this ahead of time.
The Wimbledon queue when we arrived just after 7am
4. Get a ground pass
The best way to save money on Wimbledon is to get a Grounds Pass – these let you watch some quality tennis on the outer courts for a fraction of the price. In week two you’ll have fewer singles to watch but don’t worry, there’ll be some great doubles action if you go on a Monday or Tuesday.
If you are early (and quick) there are also some unreserved seats and standing space on Court 3. It’ll cost you £30 during the first week, less from the second Tuesday onwards.
4. Bring your own food
Once you’re in, it gets very expensive. Check the T&Cs on your ticket and on the Wimbledon website, but to avoid paying high prices for disappointing burgers, bring a picnic. The same is the case with drinks. You’re allowed to bring your own booze – though not spirits – and there are (fairly generous) limits per person. Remember to bring along a corkscrew to avoid taking a bottle of wine on a day trip (speaking from experience).
Don’t forget a bottle of water – there are fountains where you can refill – and bring along sun cream, or risk paying over the odds for it in the shop. You’ll save near on £20 this way, if not more.
Amex cardholders are usually able to get a discount on purchases in the Amex lounge while last year Barclays customers got free strawberries and cream – so keep an eye out for anything like this.
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5. Go there after work
If the sun is shining, there’s every chance play will carry on until 8 or 9pm. Possibly even later now there’s a roof on Court One as well as Centre.
When I went a few years ago there was a discounted cost after 5pm – entrance to the grounds was £14 after during week one, less in week two, so I’d expect it to be not too much more this year.
However, you can only buy these tickets if people have left the grounds as it’s one-in, one-out.
If people look like they’re calling it a night, just ask politely if they mind giving you their ticket. This is the best way to get yourself into Centre Court. It’s worth a shot!
I used to do this as a kid, and managed it again at the French Open a few years ago (using some very poor GCSE French!).
A couple of years ago one bloke a few feet away just shouted out if anyone wanted his tickets as he was on his way out. We just missed out!
7. Try for returns
If you’re prepared to queue (again), there’s a resale hut that sells reduced show court tickets that people hand in when they leave. All money goes to charity, so it’s a really good idea – apart from that it means more queues.
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Late on, you’ll see many seats empty as corporate guests head home. The likelihood is they won’t hand their tickets in to be resold so there’s no official way to fill the seats.
So a young ‘un, I used to just be a bit cheeky and ask if I could nip into one of the empty seats at the back – and I often got onto Centre or No. 1. It might not work, but you’ve nothing to lose.
9. Get a refund if it rains
We all hope it won’t happen, but there’s rarely a year when play doesn’t get rained off. If you see less than an hour of play due to rain you can claim a full refund. If it’s more than an hour but less than two, you’re entitled to 50% back.
10. Watch it on the big screen
If you don’t fancy getting up really early, or get there too late, then there are a load of big screens across London, and no doubt other big cities too. They often have deck chairs and a nearby bar!
A great one is the free Open Air Film Festival from the canal side steps on Granary Square in King’s Cross. The steps are covered in astroturf and there’s usually beanbags and cushions. Nip to a nearby shop to pick up a can of Pimm’s and you’re good to go.
11. The Wimbledon Ballot for next year
Most of the tickets for the show courts are sold through a public ballot which generally opens in September and ends in December, with the results announced in February.
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The best discounts, freebies and tricks to buy books for less.
I tend to go through spells where I’m reading loads followed by periods where I can’t get going with a book. But when I get into a good book, there’s nothing quite like it.
And the more I read, the more expensive it can get. So it helps to find a few ways to find the best price, add extra discounts or even get books for free.
Here are the tricks I use to avoid paying full price.
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Shop around
Don’t just head to Amazon and assume it’ll be the cheapest place to buy a book. Yes it often does sell at reduced prices, but that doesn’t mean you won’t be able to find it for less.
I use a website called 123 Price Check, which lists most major online retailers. This alone should get you the lowest price – though you can often save more.
Save at independent book shops
I like to shop at my local independent book shop, and they take National Book Tokens (as most retailers will). These are easy to get with a discount. I tend to buy them when there’s a short term TopCashback bonus, often spend £5 get £2 back, and earn cashback on top. You’ll also find them on apps like Cheddar, Jam Doughnut and HyperJar.
It’s also worth checking other membership schemes or work perk sites you have access to in case the rates are even higher. For example, I get 9.5% off National Book Tokens via an old Scottish Friendly ISA account.
Get an extra discount
The big chains often offer deals and voucher codes, so if you’re shopping online these could help bring the price down. If there are bookshops you like particularly then it’s worth signing up to email lists – WH Smiths for example often emails promo codes to use online.
Most of the big online retailers will also offer money back via cashback sites Quidco and TopCashback. In an ideal world you’ll be able to combine this with a discount code or discounted gift card, though check the cashback site terms and conditions. It’s worth seeing if you can also earn via Airtime Rewards at the same time, with retailers including Waterstones also offering cashback.
Use loyalty schemes
My local independent has a stamp scheme where you get a stamp for each £5 you spend. Get a full card and you’ve £10 credit to use. Another good reason to support your local shop.
Larger chains also have loyalty schemes. Both Foyle’s Foyalty scheme and Waterstones Plus give a stamp for every £10 spent, and once you have 10 stamps you get £10 to spend.
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Visit your library
It’s easy to forget you can pick up free books from your library, including new releases though you might need to wait your turn.
Most libraries will have online catalogues and ordering systems which also let you renew if you haven’t finished.
If they don’t have the book you want you can request it. They’re often a small fee for this, but it’ll be less than buying a book outright.
Though it can vary depending where you live, you can often join a library online and even order books for collection.
You’ll also be able to pick up a decent read from your local charity shop, and your purchase has the added benefit of supporting a good cause. Obviously you’ll probably struggle to get a specific title, but if you’re open to what you read it’s worth a look. It’s worth seeing if there’s an online option, such as this one from Oxfam.
Or specialist second-hand book stores – both online on the high street – could give you a wider range of titles and perhaps a more knowledgeable staff to help you pick a decent read.
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Finished a book? See if a friend, colleague or family member wants to switch it with something they’ve loved.
If you’ve young children see if anyone is clearing out books their kids have outgrown – parenting groups on social media can be great places to look.
You should also see if there’s a swap box in your local area or workplace. These are generally set up by individuals – we’ve got one on our street where you can leave a book and take another. If there isn’t one, maybe look at setting one up yourself. This site has some listed, but it’s by no means a full list, and there’s this one too.
Go digital
Ebooks might not give the same experience as handling a paperback or hardback, but they can make reading a lot more convenient, especially when out and about. And they can also be a lot cheaper.
You can borrow them for free from your library, or get access to titles out of copyright via sites like Project Gutenberg – though these won’t work on a Kindle unless you convert them.
If you do have a Kindle then you can still save, with regular 99p offers on Amazon, and tools that help you track price drops and other promotions. You can read more about these in my article to help you save on Kindle books.
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If you need to sell old books to raise funds for new books, then it’s worth looking at sites such as We Buy Books and Music Magpie. From my experience you won’t get anything for any popular titles, but rarer books and text books could get you a few quid. Here’s my guide to how these sites and apps compare.
Avoiding Amazon
Obviously lots of people will go to Amazon first for books, but I’m consciously avoiding any spending with them. Yes it does mean I could pay more for my books, but high street chains tend to be fairly competitive if you can’t afford smaller indies.
And even if you do still use Amazon, if the book is sold by a different retailer, take a note of their name and see if you can buy from them direct. They’ll get more of the money, and it could even be cheaper.
