Some banks and other financial companies offer you a cash payout for referring a friend
Word of mouth is a pretty good way of finding great financial companies, and some companies will even give you a freebie for referring a friend. From bank accounts to investment platforms, here are some of the financial companies that pay for your referral.
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Bank refer-a-friend schemes
Very simply, the banks are asking you to recommend them to your friends and family. In return they’ll give you a sweetener that is paid into your account. In the past, both TSB and Nationwide have offered £100 for referring friends, however sadly neither bank offers it anymore.
To be able to get the referral money, you need to have an account with the bank in order to play matchmaker, but once you do it’s a nice way to earn a little extra. And often your friends will get something in return too. Here’s what you need to know for each scheme.
Monzo refer-a-friend offer
Monzo offers a referral offer that changes from time to time. At the moment, this is £10 for you and a friend. Your friend needs to accept your invite and make their first card payment within 30 days.
Revolut refer-a-friend offer
Revolut routinely offers referral offers that change fairly often. These can range between getting £10 per referred friend to £60, so it’s worth trying to time it when there’s the best offer available.
Monese refer-a-friend bonus
Monese offers £10 via its invite and earn program. You’ll get £5 when you use the card for the first time and the rest after you’ve spent £500 with the card.
Bank switch offers
If you don’t have any friends to refer you, then you can try a bank switch offer. For these, you’ll need to close your old account completely. However, as part of the Current Account Switch Guarantee, all your Direct Debits and standing orders will be transferred, and any payments in (such as your salary) and out will be forwarded. We have a separate guide with all of the current best bank switch offers if you’re up for one of these, but here are the top ones.
Eligible accounts: Reward or Premier Reward (for new customers, longer list for existing customers)
Requirements
Pay in £1,250 within 60 days of switching
Log on to online or app banking within 60 days of switching
Switch using the Current Account Switch Service and close your old account
Open a Digital Regular Saver (for additional £50)
Exclusions
Offer limited to once per person
Cannot have ever received a switching bonus from RBS, Ulster or Natwest
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Credit card referral schemes
While there are quite a number of credit card referral schemes out there, you need to think carefully before recommending a credit card to someone as you’d want to be confident that they can manage the payments.
American Express refer-a-friend offer
If you refer a friend for the American Express Cashback Credit Card and they successfully apply then you’ll get £30 (up to £150 per calendar year) and they get £25, which makes it fee-free.
They’ll also get the normal introductory offer, currently 5% cashback for three months up to £125. Other Amex cards have similar schemes though the rate might vary. It’s also possible for your friend to get a similar bonus via cashback sites but you’ll miss out. We have a full guide on the best American Express cards.
Vanquis credit card refer-a-friend offer
Vanquis also offers £25 to you and your friend if you recommend someone to their credit card, but this isn’t a cashback credit card so there’s probably a better reward out there for your friend – even if it means you don’t get your referral bonus.
Savings account refer-a-friend offers
Plum refer a friend offer
Savings app Plum sometimes has referral schemes that let you refer a friend for a savings account. Your referred friend usually needs to deposit a certain amount to get the payout, but this’ll depend on the T&Cs at the time.
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Investing refer-a-friend offers
Investment accounts also tend to have refer-a-friend offers. If you don’t already have an account with some of them, you can sign up with our link to get free shares or cashback. Here are some of the offers.
Here at Be Clever With Your Cash, we’re not regulated to give you financial advice. We aim to give you the facts about a provider or investment but it’s up to you to decide if it’s suitable for you. If you’re looking for more personalised guidance, find a financial adviser who can give you specific advice. Remember that your capital is at risk when investing — don’t invest more than you are prepared to lose.
Trading 212 refer-a-friend offer
Trading 212 routinely offers a refer-a-fried promotion that can get both you and your friend free fractional shares when they sign up using your link. You can check if this is running by going into the Menu – if there’s an option called ‘Get free shares’, then it’s currently running. You then choose ‘invite friends’.
Hit ‘share link’ to share your referral link, which you can then send to your friends. They need to sign up and deposit £1 within 10 days. Within three working days of your friend signing up and depositing at least £1.
If you’re not already a Trading 212 customer, you can get a free fractional share using our referral.
InvestEngine refer-a-friend offer
InvestEngine’s refer-a-friend offer can get you and your friend a bonus between £20 & £100 when your friend invests at least £100.
To get it, you need to send your friend your referral link. They then need to sign up, choose investments and fund the account with at least £100. You’ll both then get a notification to generate your welcome bonus.
It’ll land in your accounts within five business days.
You can refer up to 25 friends but you have to keep your bonus invested for at least 12 months before you can withdraw it.
If you don’t have InvestEngine yet, you can still get a welcome bonus via our link.
Expired refer-a-friend deals
Nationwide referral bonus
This was one of the best refer-a-fiend offers when it ran, but it’s sadly ended. Both you and your friend could get £100 when you referred them. However, higher paying bank switch offers regularly run.
TSB refer a friend bonus
This was another refer-a-friend offer that ended on 28 February 2020. You and your friend could get £100 each as long as they completed a full switch that included two active direct debits and paid £500 into the account.
First Direct referral bonus
First Direct used to offer a referral scheme, but this was put on hold and never returned. When it ran, you could get between £50 and £100.
Santander refer a friend bonus
The Santander referral offer ended in June 2019. It got you and your friend a £50 Amazon voucher for a full switch.
The do’s and don’ts of passing on unwanted or duplicate gifts.
There’s a good chance at some point each year you’ll be given a gift you don’t want or need. Unwanted presents are frustrating and disappointing but also a bit awkward. So what do you do with it?
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What to do with an unwanted present
The worst thing you can do with an unwanted gift is just throw it away. Not only are you adding to landfill, but the money spent by the gift giver has been wasted. Not much better is just putting it out of sight in a cupboard or drawer. It’ll probably just sit there gathering dust for a few years until you have a clear-out, and then go to the tip too.
You could try to make use of whatever you’ve been given, even if you don’t like it. But why wear a jumper, use the vase or eat some chocolates that aren’t to your taste simply because you feel you should? It’s not your fault the gift wasn’t right, so you shouldn’t feel guilty about it. Saying that, you might find you later learn to love it.
You could try to sell the present, though the admin and fees associated might be enough to put you off. It’s worth having a look online just to see what similar items have gone for, but it’s something likely only worth it for higher-value items.
Perhaps the best option, if you’re brave enough, is to be honest about the present. Tell the gift-giver why it’s not right and ask if they would be able to give you a gift receipt so you could exchange it, or if they would do it for you. This will be a lot easier if the gift is something you already have than if it’s just not to your taste. Still, it’s worth a go.
But if you can’t see that working, your next best bet is to pass the present on, also known as regifting. This can be controversial. Imagine how you’d feel if a gift you put thought into wasn’t just unwanted, but given to someone else? Not great. But it’s better to know someone, somewhere is making use of it rather than it getting chucked away.
And if you can avoid the awkwardness, then it’s a winning strategy. You’re giving someone a gift they hopefully will like, you’re helping the environment by not chucking it away and you’re saving yourself some cash by not having to buy something new.
So here a few simple rules and tips to help you navigate the minefield of regifting.
Do: only regift to someone you think will appreciate the present
Regifting doesn’t mean you can just palm off an unwanted present to any old friend or family member. If they won’t appreciate it, you’re just passing the buck, and it could still end up in the bin.
Instead have a think about who might like it, and there’s a good chance you’ll have a few contenders. Most unwanted gifts aren’t bad gifts. They might simply not be to your taste, or perhaps be a duplicate of something you already have.
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Don’t: regift everything
It’s worth taking into account any politics within your family or friendship groups. It might be better to keep hold of something and just bring it out from time to time to avoid any rifts. Yes, that could mean keeping hold of that awful painting your gran got you. But that might be better than the potential fallout if she found out.
Also some gifts are just plain bad. The kind you can’t understand why someone would manufacture it, let alone buy it. If you’ve got one of these and there’s no one you can think of who would like it then don’t regift it.
Do: have a regifting box
It’s worth keeping any unwanted gifts together in one box or cupboard. This way if you need to buy a present you can check what you’ve got and see if there’s anything suitable.
Don’t: forget who bought you the unwanted gift
There’s a danger with regifting of whoever you gave the gift to finding out, or perhaps even getting it back themselves. You hear stories of presents being passed around the same group year after year. Neither of these scenarios are desirable.
To avoid this, make a clear note of who gave you the gift and when. Then when you regift it, make sure it’s given to someone in a different circle.
Take a good look at your unwanted present. Have they inscribed a message in a book? Is there a tag stuck to the bottom of the box that you missed? If you’re sure there are no tell-tell signs the item is regifted then it’s fine to re-gift.
Don’t: regift anything that’s been used
Any unwanted present you want to pass on has to be in as good a condition as if you’d just bought it yourself. Packaging is key here so ensure any tags are intact and the box unopened. It’s important to check use-by dates on any food or drink gifts too.
Do: remember charity shops
Finally, as we’ve mentioned a few times above, you can also give an unwanted present to a charity shop. But don’t just dump a bag outside the shop. Take it in and see what they will take and then you can deal with anything they reject.
Gift cards are a popular present option, but they have some major downsides.
From birthday and Christmas through to leaving and wedding gifts, at some point, we’ve all received and purchased gift cards. It makes sense – they’re an easy choice when you don’t know what to buy someone. The issue is that every time you buy a gift card you risk losing the cash on it.
The majority of the time you’ll be fine, but there are a few risks of gift cards, many of which can be reduced or avoided. Still, to be safe you need to know the good and bad of gift cards.
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When gift cards are bad
I’ll lead with the dangers of gift cards – the reasons you could find your gift card is wasted cash.
Gift cards prevent you shopping around
One of the key tenets of Being Clever With Your Cash is getting the best deal. The easiest way to do this is very simple – shop around for the best price.
Yet if you have a gift card to use at Shop A, but the best price for what you want is at Shop B, you’ve no choice but to buy it from Shop A.
Ok, so it’s not the end of the world if we’re talking about a few quid, but you won’t want to miss out on larger savings.
And what if the shop you have a gift card for doesn’t have anything you want? You’ll end up using it to buy something you don’t need and probably won’t use. It’s a waste of money.
Refunds go back to a gift card
Another big risk of buying with a gift card becomes apparent if you need to return your purchase.
The money will go back to a gift card for the same shop. This is less of an issue if you shop frequently at the retailer, but what if it’s a one-off purchase?
It’s particularly bad if it’s a large purchase leaving hundreds of quid on a gift card rather than in your bank account.
This is why I never purchase discounted gift cards for anything I’m not certain about.
You also need to be careful here that you don’t chuck out your gift cards once you’ve used them. While most retailers will issue a new gift card, some will require the funds to go back to the original card.
Be aware that online purchases could also be refunded to credit that can only be used online. John Lewis is one worth highlighting here.
Say you’ve got a paper or plastic gift card you can use at both John Lewis & Waitrose shops and websites. Use it on the John Lewis website and any refunds are in credit just to use online only at John Lewis – but not Waitrose.
They often have hidden expiration dates
Most gift cards will have an expiration date. If you don’t use them before this date you lose the cash. That’s fine with paper vouchers, and most sent by email, where you can see this date in black and white.
But you need to be particularly careful with plastic gift cards. These can be loaded with different amounts at purchase, which means the details printed on them are often generic.
This makes it hard to see when the card expires, or how much is left on them. This means that a huge number will expire unused.
There are also different rules for different cards. Sometimes they’ll be valid for a set period, perhaps one or two years. Others will be valid for a certain time since they were last used. But it’s not always clear which is which.
Some, such as the One4All card will start charging you a monthly fee after a certain time (with One4All it’s 90p per month after 18 months).
The best way to prevent them from expiring (other than using them straight away) is to make a note of when you bought/received the card and its value. Then each time you use it, make a note of the date and new value, or keep your receipts with it, they typically have details of what’s left on the card.
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It can be hard to spend the full amount
Often you’ll find that if you don’t use the gift card in one go you’ll be left with a few quid, or even pennies, left over. They’re not enough to buy something outright, so you keep hold of the card until you next go to that retailer.
And then you forget. And that money sits there until the card expires. More wasted money.
There can be limits on using multiple cards
If you’re asking multiple people to give you cards to go towards a purchase, check if there’s a limit to how many cards you can use in a single transaction.
Marks & Spencer and Curry’s, for example, will only allow 10 to be used at once.
There’s no protection with a gift card
Spending with a credit or debit card can give you some advantages over gift cards. Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act protects credit card purchases over £100, while the Chargeback scheme for credit and debit cards is a route if you’ve problems with purchases under £100.
If you pay with gift cards, or cash for that matter, you lose this protection.
And much like cash, if you lose your gift card there’s no way of getting it back. So try not to carry too many gift cards around with you.
They can be worthless if the shop goes bust
We’ve seen a succession of high street staples shut their doors over the last few years, and when this happens the administrators don’t have to honour any gift cards.
Often shops closing down just stop accepting outstanding cards. Jessops, HMV and Peacocks all made gift cards and vouchers worthless overnight when they entered administration.
It’s also unlikely that buying gift cards on a credit card and using Section 75 would help you get your money back in these situations as gift card balances are usually far less than £100.
If, despite this, you still want to give a card, it would be wise to avoid any retailer which appears to be struggling.
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When gift cards are good
That’s one long list of negatives when it comes to gift cards… but there are a handful of times when they can be worth the risk.
When you get an extra discount
You don’t have to buy them as gifts – you can buy them for yourself for your own shopping. And that can be a good thing when you’re able to buy discounted gift cards.
It could mean you pay less for your everyday shopping, including at places where it’s hard to find offers. For instance, though small you could get 2% back at Amazon or 4% at the supermarket – better than the rate you’ll get from a cashback credit or debit card.
And since the gift cards are like cash, you can stack them with other promotions and savings, such as in tandem with Meerkat Movies at the cinema, or with BOGOF offers.
For example, I often get an extra 6% off John Lewis gift vouchers via my Scottish Friendly ISA perks. It comes as an email but I print it out and I’m able to use it both online and in-person at the department store and in Waitrose.
Supermarkets often run promotions on selected gift cards, such as Spotify, Pizza Express, Cineworld and Footlocker. If we spot decent deals we’ll share them on our gift card deals page.
When you spend them straight away
The main way to avoid the bulk of risks outlined above is to spend your gift card as soon as you get it! That way they can’t expire, be lost or lose their value of the shop goes bust.
When you can use them on lots of things
If you’re set on buying a gift card for someone then you could look at one you can use at multiple retailers.
Though there’s always the risk that the companies selling these could go out of business themselves, you’ve got a choice where you shop. The main ones are One4All and Love2Shop.
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Really you’re better off giving cash, sending a cheque or transferring money to a bank account. Yes these can feel lazy and seem impersonal. But really, is that very different from a gift card?
I know people worry that the money will just disappear from a bank account on everyday spending than buy something special. That certainly is a risk, but you can steer someone to use the gifted money in a certain way.
Perhaps you can say “use this for a nice meal out”. Or to “put it towards a new winter coat”. Hopefully if you suggest this you’ll get a nice text or email sharing when and where it is spent.
And don’t be put off sending a cheque (if you’re still got a chequebook). There are a number of banks now that let you pay in a cheque via the app.
Prices are changing all the time, usually upwards, and the rate these changes are measured is generally called inflation. However there are a few different options here, so we’ve broken down what they all mean, and why they matter.
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What is inflation?
Inflation is a measurement that helps us track the price increase of goods and services over time.
It compares the cost of things today with how much they cost a year ago. And the average increase in prices is what we call the inflation rate.
Let’s take a loaf of bread as an example. If it costs £1 to buy a loaf today and next year it costs £1.10, the annual inflation for that loaf of bread is 10%.
And falling inflation doesn’t mean prices will go down. If a rate moves from 5% to 4% month on month prices are still increasing, they’re just doing so at a slightly slower rate.
What is deflation?
Deflation works the opposite way and tracks the rate that prices decrease for goods and services over time.
So looking at that loaf of bread again. If it costs £1 to buy a loaf today but that falls to 90p next year, then the deflation rate would be -10%.
What’s the latest inflation rate?
Inflation is measured over a 12 month period, with the latest figures announced in the middle of each month. You can find out current rates in our UK Inflation: what is the current rate? article.
How is UK inflation measured?
The Office for National Statistics (ONS) is in charge of measuring inflation in the UK and publishes figures each month to show how prices have changed.
There are three common measures of inflation; Consumer Prices Index (CPI), Consumer Prices Index with Housing (CPIH) and the Retail Price Index (RPI).
This can get a little confusing at first with all of the different figures, but the breakdown below shows how each one works and how relevant it is to you.
CPI inflation
The Consumer Price Index (CPI) is the UK’s official measure of inflation and the rate you’re likely to see make headlines.
For CPI, the ONS tracks around 180,000 prices of 700 hundred everyday items in an imaginary shopping basket (called the basket of goods) to work out the inflation rate.
These everyday items and services fall into one of the following categories:
Food & non-alcoholic beverages
Alcohol & tobacco
Clothing & footwear
Housing & household services
Furniture & household goods
Health
Transport
Communication
Recreation & culture
Education
Restaurants & hotels
Miscellaneous goods & services
The basket of goods gets reviewed each year to make sure that it gives an accurate picture of how price rises relate to our spending habits and patterns.
This means that products and services might get added to the basket each month, while others are taken out.
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What is core inflation?
Another measurement for inflation you may have come across is “core inflation.” Core inflation tracks the same goods and services as CPI but doesn’t include food, energy, alcohol and tobacco.
These are taken out as they’re generally seen as the most volatile, so core inflation should give us a better understanding of how prices are changing outside of the everyday essentials.
What’s in the basket of goods?
Inflation in the UK is measured by looking at the price changes for an imaginary shopping basket, known as the “basket of goods.”
The basket includes lots of products and services that we use and tends to change to reflect our spending habits to make sure that the inflation rate is relevant.
The contents are refreshed each year, and in March 2024, 16 were added to the basket including air fryers, vinyl music and gluten free bread. Items that have been taken out of the basket include hand gel, rotisserie chicken and bakeware.
CPIH is a measure of UK inflation that takes into account housing costs, as well as everyday goods and services.
It uses the same basket of goods as CPI but also includes prices for things like the cost of owning, renting or maintaining your home. It also takes into account expenses like council tax.
CPIH is the newest measure of inflation and was introduced in 2013 to plug some of the gaps left by CPI (mainly the lack of tracking of housing costs.)
RPI inflation
RPI used to be the main measure of inflation in the UK until it was replaced by CPI in 2011.
It tracks the same basket of goods currently used for CPI but also includes things like estate agent fees, buildings insurance, TV licence and mortgage interest payments (which aren’t included anymore!) And, it tends to be higher than the CPI and CPIH measure of inflation.
Although RPI isn’t the main inflation figure anymore, it’s still used to set the price of things like interest on student loan repayments and rail fare increases we get each year – though there is the flexibility from the government to pick a lower rate if RPI is significantly high.
RPI also plays a big role in the level of retirement income people get from final salary pensions and annuities.
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Do we really need RPI?
So you might be wondering why we still use RPI if it’s technically been replaced. Well, there’s an ongoing debate about its purpose and relevance.
On one hand, final salary pension schemes and annuities may see less of an income boost if RPI was scrapped altogether.
However, the government’s use of RPI compared to CPI, in particular, has also come under fire.
Usually, the government links its own spending – which includes things like the state pension, statutory sick pay and benefits – to the CPI rate of inflation, which is lower.
However, it uses RPI (which is higher) when it comes to the costs we pay such as train tickets, car tax and student loan interest to name a few.
At this stage, it remains to be seen what will happen with RPI and whether it is replaced completely by one of the other inflation measures.
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Inflation shows how much the cost of living is rising and gives you an idea of your spending power. So, the higher the rate of inflation, the more expensive everyday expenses tend to be.
With the current cost of living crisis, we’ve all seen how sharply prices have risen over recent years. From eye-watering grocery bills to the cost of heating and powering our homes, prices have risen across the board.
High inflation has also caused significant increases to the interest base rate by the BoE. That’s because the BoE raises interest rates in an attempt to bring down inflation to its 2% target. And changes to interest rates can impact both borrowing (especially mortgage) and savings.
Inflation also increases the risk of your money losing value in real terms. One area is wages. If they don’t increase in line with inflation you’ll need to use a higher proportion of your income to buy the same goods and services.
Similarly, your savings could lose value as well because, if your money is earning less interest than the rate of inflation – you won’t be able to buy as much with it.
Not only can you claim back money if your train is delayed, you can get cash rather than those annoying train travel vouchers.
I hate being late. I’ll always try to leave early, if not bang on time, so any kind of delay is the kind of thing that really annoys me. And trains are among the worst for getting me somewhere later than I planned.
Just a few weeks ago my train down to London from Yorkshire was cancelled. Though my ticket was valid on the next train it would mean I’d arrive back 30 minutes later than planned – and this meant I could get a partial refund!
With that cash arriving in my account this week, I thought it was time to share my Be Clever Basics Q&A for getting a refund when your train is delayed or cancelled.
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When can you claim a refund for a train delay?
The main requirement is your train has to be delayed by at least 15 minutes, though a handful will only pay out after a 30 or 60-minute delays.
The rules also say the delay has to be the train company’s fault in order to get a payout. However, most of the operators have signed up to the “Delay Repay” scheme which will pay out for any delay.
How do you claim?
You can do this online with most rail companies. If you’d rather do it on a form you should be able to pick up one at the station or print one out from the different websites.
Make sure you keep your train tickets as you’ll need to send them in with your claim if it’s via the post, or take a photo if you’re doing it online.
A handful, including Northern and C2C, will automatically issue a refund if you meet certain criteria such as holding a smartcard or booked in advance via their website or app.
How much can you claim?
Again, how big a refund you’ll get depends on the different operators. The length of the delay will also have an impact.
With Delay Repay, the minimum is 25% of a single delayed journey that’s delayed between 15 and 29 minutes. It jumps up to 50% back for delays between 30 and 59 minutes, and the full single fare back if you are delayed by more than an hour. Some will refund your whole ticket, including the return leg, if the delay is longer than 60 minutes.
If the train company isn’t part of Delay Repay you’re looking at 50% back for delays of an hour or more.
When do you need to claim a refund by?
You need to submit your claim within 28 days of the journey.
Can I get a refund if the train is cancelled?
If you don’t travel due to cancellation you can get a full refund from where you bought the ticket.
If you travel on a different train (check with platform staff first that it’s ok to do this), you’ll only be able to get a refund if you arrive more than 30-minutes later than the original booked train.
How can you receive the refund?
You no longer have to get your refund as one of those annoying train travel vouchers. Instead, you should be able to pick one form of payment such as a refund to your card, payment to bank account or even via cheque. For example, LNER lets you choose to have a payment made to your bank account or your PayPal account.
What if I have a season ticket?
You’ll be entitled to compensation equivalent to a single journey. Some train providers will also offer discounts on future season tickets if the service is consistently delayed.
What if you used pay as you go Oyster or Contactless in London?
You can claim for tube and TFL Rail journeys delayed over 15 minutes. It’s a bit of a faff and you need to use your Oyster account for this, but it’s worth doing.
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Hacks when claiming for train delays
Here are a few more tricks to boost your claim when you’re on the train, when you arrive at the station and when you get home.
On the train
Track the length your delay
With most train operators you’ll only be able to claim a refund (usually 50%) if you’re delayed by more than 30 minutes. So if a delay had been 29 mins, I’d not only have been inconvenienced, I wouldn’t be able to claim!
On some journeys, the conductor actually informed us that we could get a refund, though this often doesn’t happen – so it’s usually down to you to track the length of your delay.
The rules do change – more will refund you if the delay is 15 mins, while some require at least 60 minutes.
Ask why you’ve been delayed
The cause of the delay doesn’t matter if the train operator has signed up to the Delay Repay scheme. But if it hasn’t, you might be only to claim if the delay could have been avoided (so bad weather or strike action don’t count).
To help your claim, ask the guard if the company has signed up to Delay Repay, and if not what was the cause of the delay
Take a photo of your ticket
You’ll need proof of your journey to claim a refund, so if you have a physical ticket, take a snap with your phone just in case you lose it.
At the station
Don’t use the electronic gates
This one has caught me out a few times. Most automatic gates will eat your ticket, and no ticket means it’s harder to claim your compensation. So even if you’ve taken a photo it’s best to find the manual gate with a guard so you can keep hold of your ticket for the claim. Of course, with more and more tickets now digital when booked online, you can scan and go without worry.
Take a screenshot of live information or the arrivals board
Once you’ve arrived, take a photo of the arrivals board or the live tracking information on an app. You might not need it, but it’s extra proof if your delay time is close to one of the compensation brackets (normally 15, 30, 60 or 120 minutes).
Get a form at the station
You’ll be able to apply online for most if not all train firms now, but if you want to be sure or prefer doing it via post, you can pick up a compensation form at the station. Though it’d be nice if these were easy to find, I imagine you’ll need to ask for one at the ticket or information desk.
It’s not the end of the world if you can’t get one as you can usually print a form from the website.
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When you get home
Find out how long a train was delayed
If you didn’t make a note at the time, then check out the Recent Train Times website. It’s not the most user-friendly, but it shouldn’t take you long to find out exactly how long a delay was.
Work out where to apply
You’ll need to apply directly with the rail company where the delay occurred. So if you’ve changed lines during the journey, then it’ll be the one responsible for the delay who should pay you for the full ticket (assuming it wasn’t a split ticket).
Find the form online
If the train provider allows online claims this is usually quicker. You can upload a picture of your phone, which means it’s often easier to do this from your phone rather than a desktop. Here’s a list of all the different rail firms.
Ask for a bank transfer
It’s not always clear but you are legally entitled to a bank transfer or cheque refund. If you don’t ask for this you could be sent an annoying rail voucher than can only be used at ticket desks.
Take a copy of your ticket and form
If you’re posting your compensation claim form and ticket, make sure you have a copy (just take a photo if you don’t have a scanner). If you’re filling it in online you should be able to save a copy.
And make a note of to chase if you haven’t heard back within the time stated on the form.
Put the refund claim in before 28 days pass
Remember, you’ve only got four weeks to request your refund, so don’t leave it too late.
From big turkeys to posh chocs – Christmas is a time to over-indulge. So how do you enjoy your festive feast, but get the best value possible? I’ve got a few ideas.
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Make a list
Really basic, but it’s the best money saver. Once you know who’s coming over for Christmas, work out exactly what you’ll need, and write it all down. Don’t forget to check your cupboards and freezer for any ingredients you already have.
This is much better than just buying more than you need, which will not just cost you more money but could end up as unused leftovers.
Not sure how much to buy for Christmas dinner? Checkout this portion guide from BBC Goodfood – it will help you know exactly how much food you’ll need to buy.
Hunt for bargain veg
To entice you into their supermarkets at Christmas many retailers sell vegetables for pennies in a Christmas veg price war.
So far this year, we know that Asda, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Lidl and Aldi have all announced they are selling 15p veg from 19 – 24 December and Morrisons is beating everyone else by selling theirs for just 10p!
Frozen or fresh – you decide
Frozen turkeys are cheaper than fresh, so you could save money on one of your most expensive Christmas purchases – only if you have a large enough freezer to store it and you’re willing to put up with the faff of defrosting on Christmas eve!
You can also buy it early which can help spread the cost of Christmas
And speaking of frozen, this year Iceland are offering a Luxury Christmas Dinner for four for just £25. That’s lunch sorted for only £6.25 per head.
Go own-brand
For those non-priorities, you can spend less by trying own-brand versions. For example, you might always buy a bottle of Baileys at Christmas, but most supermarket own-brand versions taste exactly the same – but cost a lot less.
And own-label mince pies are nearly half the price of the well known cake brands, and by the time you’ve consumed dinner and had a glass or two of Baileys, you won’t know who’s mince pie you’re eating!
Avoid festive packaging
Often you’ll find something is branded with Christmas packaging, but there’s a normal alternative available on another aisle that’s either cheaper or better value.
Having different prices for what is essentially the same product can be confusing. Take pigs in blankets from Waitrose. The standard pack of 12 costs £5.25 for 12, whilst the Christmas branded pack is £6 for 12. But the Christmas pack is on a 3 for 2 offer, so depending on how many you need, could work out cheaper!
Ditch selection packs
It’s quite rare that someone enjoys all the biscuits in a Christmas tin, all the chocs in a festive box or all the crackers in a bumper cracker selection.
These selection packs more often than not work out more expensive than buying individual packets, so unless it’s in a pretty tin and you want to give it as a gift, you might want to stick to the individual packets instead, as once they’re out of the packet and on a serving plate, you wouldn’t know if they were from a festive pack or not.
To put this into perspective, the Jacob’s Festive selection box of crackers is currently £4 for 450g in Tesco (Clubcard price), whilst Tesco’s own-label cream crackers cost just 49p for 300g – that’s 73p per 100g cheaper.
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And don’t forget, if you want to avoid the crowds there’s always lots of ‘click and collect’ slots left, nearer to Christmas.
Wait for some reduced deals
If you can hold your nerve, then the day before Christmas is one of the best days of the year to snap up clearance food, including turkeys, vegetables and fresh gateaux.
Since many shops will shut on both Christmas Day and Boxing Day, there’s a lot of food that will need to be cleared from the shelves.
But like the clearance section most evenings in supermarkets, you can never count on getting what you want.
It’s obviously a risk buying your turkey discounted on Christmas Eve, so if that’s too much of a gamble, then you can always buy what you need in advance and use Christmas Eve to shop for bargains you can freeze for other celebrations like New Year or even Easter.
And don’t forget, after the festivities are over, you’ll often find crackers, wrapping paper and cards reduced to clearance, so if you have room in your loft, then stock up on those Christmas essentials for the following year.
New Trading 212 customers get an increase of 0.86% AER to 4.98% for 12 months
More details ▼
Additional Info
Existing Trading 212 customers get a rate of 4.1%
FSCS Protected?: Yes
Allows transfers in?: Yes
Flexible ISA?: Yes
▲
Use your leftovers
Turkey sarnies, turkey curry, turkey soup, turkey stir-fry…just think Bubba in his famous shrimp recital in the Forest Gump movie! It’s possibly the one time of year where we actively enjoy using up leftovers.
There are so many helpful recipe ideas online including this selection at Olive, that there’s no excuse to let any Christmas food go to waste.
And if your fridge is packed to the rafters like mine is at Christmas, just make note of the use by dates so food doesn’t go to waste. If you don’t think you can finish it before the use-by date, just remember, many Christmas goodies can be frozen, including foods like cheese, mince pies and cake.
When you can get your money back, and when you can’t.
We’ve all made that impulse purchase that turns out to be not such a great idea. And we’ve all had items which seemed fine but over time turned out to be duds. So are you stuck with these unwanted or broken purchases?
You might be able to get your money back, but this could depend on why you want to return it, where you bought it, and how you paid for it.
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Why you’re returning it
Because it’s faulty
If your purchase is damaged or stops working, the shop needs to give you a refund. You’ve 30 days to take something back in this case. You’ll need proof of purchase.
Once this first month is over you’ve another five months (so six months after you got the item) to ask for a repair or replacement. And if the shop can’t or won’t do that, then you can get a full refund.
After this, you’ll need to prove that the problem is down to manufacturing, not wear and tear. This can make it a lot harder to get a refund. But you’ve got up to six years to do this and it’s worth a try.
Of course you might also have a guarantee with the item, so check whether you can claim on that for a refund or to get something fixed outside the first six months.
You’ve changed your mind
It’s a different story for refunds if you simply decide you don’t want something – you might not actually be able to get your money back. It all depends on where you bought it and potentially how you paid for it – keep reading for more on each of these.
Where you bought it
You bought it in a shop
Legally, the shop doesn’t have to accept returns when you change your mind. This can even include simply wanting to swap clothes for a different size.
Fortunately, many, if not most, shops will happily give you your money back if you give them your receipt.
There’s normally something like 28 days or a month to bring your return back. And these are often extended in the run-up to Christmas. But do check the shop’s policy, ideally before you buy anything.
Your money will be refunded to your original card. If you don’t have it, you might be able to get a gift card. However, some shops are cracking down on this to prevent money laundering and fraud.
The receipt is really important. Without it, the shop doesn’t have to accept the item back or might refund you at the current selling price, which could be lower if it’s on sale.
If a shop’s return policy doesn’t include refunds, it might let you exchange it or give you a credit note to spend at a later date. Not great, but it’s better than being stuck with something you won’t use or is the wrong size.
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You actually get better rights if you order and pay online. You have 14 days from receiving your items to decide to send them back and let the retailer know – no questions asked. You’ve then got another 14 days to return them.
You can get a refund on the original delivery charge too, but you might need to pay to return it. Every retailer is different, so it’s worth checking before you buy. Amazon has different rules for the reason you return it– sometimes it’s free, sometimes there’s a charge.
And you get the same rights online as buying in a shop if something is faulty.
When shops can refuse a return even if they have a returns policy
There are some exclusions, even if a shop does offer refunds or you got it online. Perishable items such as fresh flowers or frozen foods won’t be accepted for example.
You won’t be able to return personalised or made to order items. This could also include things like furniture even if you’re choosing the standard fabrics as they might only make the item once it’s been ordered.
You might also get turned down if the original packaging is missing, damaged or opened. My mum spotted in-store at John Lewis that you now can’t return electronics that have been opened. She’d bought a new phone, but the handset didn’t get reception in the garden – the whole point of her buying it.
The store’s justification was that if you’ve seen it in-store you know what you’re buying. Fortunately, my mum had ordered it online for click and collect, so she had further rights and got her refund (more on this in a sec). But it shows you just be extra careful when unpacking anything.
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This law means credit card providers are equally responsible if something goes wrong with a purchase. So if a retailer is refusing to refund you, you can try the credit card company.
However, this is only going to be effective if there’s an issue with your purchase or it just doesn’t turn up. Changing your mind when a shop doesn’t have a returns policy won’t cut it.
You paid with a debit card
Here you can try for “chargeback”, as long as the purchase was under £100. This isn’t covered by a law, but if your bank agrees you’ve got a fair claim for money back with 120 days of your purchase, then they can reverse the charge to your account.
You paid via PayPal
Though PayPal can be convenient, it could also mean you lose the consumer rights that come with credit card or debit card payments. This is because you’re effectively breaking a direct chain between the card provider and the retailer.
So though it’s fine to use it (and I do), it’s worth avoiding it on bigger purchases, just in case. Here’s more on the pros and cons of PayPal.
You paid with cash
You’ve got no extra rights when you pay with cash, and if you lose your receipt you’ve also no proof of purchase at all. So try not to pay with cash if you can avoid it.
You paid with a gift card
I’m a fan of using discounted gift cards to save a little extra on purchases. However, there’s a danger with paying by gift card. If you decide to return your item, you will get the refund to a gift card. Why is this bad?
First, you need to make sure you keep the original gift card as some retailers will only refund to the one you paid with.
Second, you’re locked into shopping with that retailer again. It’s a small risk if we’re talking about a £30 M&S gift card. But it’s a lot worse if you’re left with £400 on one for Curry’s.
So if there’s a good chance you’ll take something back, avoid paying with a gift card unless you’ve already got one.
How often do you have to use ODEON Limitless, Cineworld Unlimited, Everyman Everywhere and other movie memberships to make them worthwhile?
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How cinema memberships work
There are two core types of memberships for the main cinema chains. The all-you-can-watch options will let you go every day, even more than once each day, if you want. The others will get you a handful of free tickets and then discounts on future ones.
Often you’re limited to just standard 2D screenings in normal seats, but some will let you access 3D showings, recliner seats and even event cinema such as theatre – though you’ll pay more for the privilege.
You can see the breakdown of ODEON Limitless, Cineworld Unlimited, Everyman, Curzon and Picturehouse memberships further down the page. But first, my thoughts on how to decide what represents good value.
Should you get a cinema membership?
I think value from cinema memberships comes down to three factors. If you can justify at least two of them, then potentially go for it.
How often will you go?
First is the most important, and it’s one very simple number – how often are you really going to go? Back in my 20s, my record was 60 times in a year, but even I found that too much. I forgot half the things I saw!
I think if you can commit to going roughly two or three weeks out of four (between 26 and 40 visits a year) then you’ll likely be getting a bargain. These are the key numbers I’ve used in the comparisons below, but that’s still a lot of films to see. Go less than this and the savings tend to be less likely.
Can you commit to just one cinema?
Next you need to consider if you’re likely to still visit other cinema chains. That could be because there aren’t many screens or certain films aren’t showing where you’ve got your membership – often the case for independent or foreign films. Perhaps it’s just a logistical matter because mates want to go elsewhere or you can only make a screening at 8pm.
There’s absolutely no point shelling out for an unlimited membership if you’re going to see movies elsewhere too.
But if you’ve only got one cinema then this is less of a problem.
Of course, some of these memberships can also be used alongside other deals. There are tricks mentioned below for both Everyman and Cineworld memberships which effectively give you free tickets for two people if you go certain days. Bargain!
When I lived in London I saw no point getting one of the annual cinema memberships. First, there are dozens of ways to get cheap tickets, meaning I rarely paid more than £6 a ticket in the capital. Second, you are tied to going to just one chain, which doesn’t work if the film you want to see at the time you want to go is at a cinema you can’t use your membership.
But now I’m out of London, my options are much smaller. We’ve actually only got two cinemas in town – an ODEON and an Everyman. Both offer membership schemes that let you go as much as you want. Are they worth shelling out for?
Having checked out all the deals, the cinema geek side of me is very tempted by the Everyman Everywhere membership – but only if I’m willing to go every week.
However, thanks to various deals (largely my Vitality health insurance) I get both a free ODEON cinema ticket every month and free movie rental every week. Combined with so many fantastic TV shows on Disney, Apple and the BBC I don’t think I’d be able to get enough value from a membership.
Plus I still like to have the choice of where I go and I’ve enough money-saving tricks up my sleeve that I can keep prices just as low most of the time. So the answer – for now – is no.
But take a look at the different options below to see if one could work for you.
How the different cinema memberships compare
ODEON myLimitless
How it works
There are two versions of ODEON’s membership, called myLimitless. The standard offering works all over the UK, not just outside London. However you won’t be able to use it at Luxe locations. These are included in the myLimitless Plus membership.
With standard, you can go to as many 2D films as you want, though screenings can’t overlap. Extras such as 3D and IMAX require additional payments. You also can’t use your membership ticket to get another free ticket with Meerkat Movies.
You’ll be invited to free preview screenings. You can book up to four screenings in advance. There’s a 10% discount on food and drinks.
In addition, the Plus membership not only lets you watch films at Luxe cinemas, but also get unlimited access to premier or recliner seats, as well as 3D and iSense screenings.
ODEON myLimitless costs
Standard cost (excluding Luxe): £14.99 a month / £149 a year
Plus cost (inc Luxe): £17.99 a month / £179 a year
Annual discount: 17% if paid in full (12 months for the price of 10)
If you go once a week, a ticket works out as just £2.87 (£3.44 for Plus membership). That’s pretty good! But you have to go 52 times.
Let’s say you go 40 times, which is three films every four weeks. Then it’s still a decent £3.75 (£4.48 in London). It’s hard to find cheaper tickets.
If you drop down to a visit every two weeks, it starts to get pricier – though potentially cheaper than what your local charges.
But even if you go once a month you could break even at some of the pricier locations. For example a ticket at Tottenham Court Road is £14.49 a go.
And that’s even more so at Luxe cinemas, such as the flagship Leicester Square location. A normal adult ticket is £18, while a recliner seat (included in Plus) is £25.
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FSCS Protected?: Yes
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Cineworld Unlimited
How it works
Cineworld says that the monthly cost will be cheaper than two tickets a month – though the price will change depending on the location for your “home” cinema. There are four groups, and you can see which one your cinema fits into here.
The bulk of locations are in groups 1 and 2. Though not exclusively, group 3 contains most of the London cinemas, while group 4 adds in Leicester Sq. You can use your membership at all cinemas in your and lower groups – so group 4 is effectively every single Cineworld.
You can go to as many 2D films as you want, though screenings can’t overlap. Extras such as 3D and IMAX require additional payments, though if you continue for a second year 3D is included. There’s a 50% discount on “event” screenings.
In theory you can get another free ticket with Meerkat Movies on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, so that would mean you’d only need one membership between you – if you only go midweek.
You’ll be able to see free previews and there’s a 10% discount on food and drinks, going up to 25% in year two.
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How much does Cineworld Unlimited cost?
Cost (Group 1): £12.99 a month / £155.88 a year
Cost (Group 2): £17.99 a month / £215.88 a year
Cost (Group 3): £19.99 a month / £239.88 a year
Cost (Group 4): £22.99 a month / £275.88 a year
Annual discount: None (though look out for offers)
Other savings: Recommend a friend to get a free month each, or use Clubcard points at 2:1 value
Cineworld Unlimited membership details
Minimum membership: 3 months
How to join: At the cinema, via Tesco Clubcard or via the Cineworld website
Is Cineworld Unlimited worth it?
This one has the potential to be incredibly cheap, but only if you combine your free ticket with Meerkat Movies.
If you mainly go on a Tuesday or Wednesday to take advantage of this two for one offer in Group 1, you’ll pay just £3.90 a ticket, based on 40 visits. That falls to a fantastic £1.95!
Of course, if you’re on your own, in pricier groups, go different days or go less often, then it can get a lot more expensive. So once more you need to compare it to prices at your cinema to see whether you’ll save or not.
Visits a year
Cost per trip (Group 1)
Cost per trip (Group 2)
Cost per trip (Group 3)
Cost per trip (Group 4)
52
£3.00
£4.15
£4.61
£5.31
40
£3.90
£5.40
£6.00
£6.90
26
£6.00
£8.30
£9.23
£10.61
12
£12.99
£17.99
£19.99
£22.99
*based on annual spend
Everyman membership
How it works
The basic “Everyman” membership provides six free tickets. The next level up is the “Everyicon” membership, which offers 24 free tickets. However, both let you bring a friend for free on Mondays, potentially doubling your number of included tickets.
The “Everywhere” membership is a lot of money at £680 a year. However, it’s for two people at any time and you can go to as many films as you like.
All give you 10% off food and drink, and fee-free booking.
If an Everyman is your local cinema, or the one you like going to, then you could well save a little with the six tickets for £95, making them £15.83 a ticket, or £7.92 if you go on a Monday with a friend and split the cost.
The next level – “Everyicon” – is a little cheaper, but again use the free tickets just on Mondays and that’s now 48 tickets, working out at a very nice £7.29 each.
The top “Everywhere” could work if you’ve a partner or friend who will share the membership with you. Even then you need to go a lot. See 40 movies each in a year and it’ll work out as £8.50 each for your ticket.
Personally I’d go to a cheaper cinema instead, or get a trial for Times+ which offers 2-4-1 tickets every Wednesday.
Visits a year
Everyman
Everyicon
Everywhere (one person / two people)
52
N/A
N/A
£13.08 / £6.54
40
N/A
N/A
£17 / £8.50
24
N/A
£14.58 (for 24 visits)
£28.33 / £14.77
12
N/A
£29.17
£56.67 / £28.33
6
£15.83
–
–
*based on annual spend
Curzon membership
What you get
The entry-level “Classic” includes five free tickets, and then discounts for you and a guest.
Next up, the “Cult” membership is seven tickets every week – so essentially free entry to as many films as you want. You can also use these credits to stream online movies from Curzon Home Cinema.
If there are two of you, you can add the “Events and Guest” option which gets you 14 tickets each week and you can use it on “event” screenings – but you’ll pay £50 more each month.
There’s also 10% off food and drink with all three membership levels. Sadly Curzon doesn’t accept Meerkat Movies.
How much is Curzon membership?
Cost (Classic): £65 a year (all cinemas) / £50 a year (non-London)
Cost (Cult): £25 a month / £285 a year
Cost (Cult plus Events and Guest): £75 a month / £850 a year
Go 40 times and the “Cult” membership works out as £7.13 a ticket. That’s more than I’d like to pay, but not bad if you’re in London or only have a Curzon near you. However since Curzon has a more indie/arthouse lean, you might need to pay elsewhere to see some of the big blockbusters.
Adding “Events and Guest” to the Cult membership is the most expensive out there. Only if two of you go three out of four weeks, or a little less if you throw in regular event screenings, are you going to be making this worthwhile.
The Classic membership will be worth it if you are definitely going to go five times a year and the normal ticket prices are the same or more than the average price of £10 outside London and £13 inside London.
Visits a year
Classic (London/Outside London)
Cult
Cult+ (one person / two people)
52
N/A
£5.48
£16.34 / £8.17
40
N/A
£7.13
£21.25 / £10.63
26
N/A
£10.96
£32.69 / £16.34
12
N/A
£27.08
£70.83 / £34.42
5
£13 / £10
–
–
*based on annual spend
Picturehouse membership
What you get
There isn’t a subscription membership at Picturehouse, but I’ve included it for completion. Instead you get five free tickets and discounts on further tickets.
The Member Plus option gives you double the freebies (so 10 tickets), and you can get members prices on up to three further tickets for each screening.
There’s also 10% off food and drink, jumping to 25% from year two. Like all the others there are member’s previews, though these are free at Picturehouse, potentially saving you some more cash.
How much does Picturehouse membership cost?
Cost (Picturehouse Central): £90 a year (single) / £170 a year (joint)
Cost (London excl Central): £67 a year (single) / £110 a year (joint)
Cost (Outside London): £57 a year (single) / £100 a year (joint)
If you’re likely to go to a Picturehouse cinema over other chains then the ongoing discount after the free tickets will make it more affordable. Still though, that’s potentially more expensive than using other tricks at other cinemas.
I’ve used my membership free tickets alongside Meerkat Movies in the past – I can’t find any official confirmation this is allowed, but I can’t see why not. This essentially gives you another five free tickets to be used on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Visits a year
Outside London (single)
Outside London (joint)
London (single)
London (joint)
Central London (single)
Central London (joint)
10
N/A
£10
N/A
£11
N/A
£17
5
£11.40
N/A
£13.40
N/A
£18
N/A
*based on annual spend
Cineworld Unlimited vs ODEON myLimitless
The two most effective memberships in terms of value for money are the ODEON and Cineworld schemes. If you have both cinemas near you and aren’t sure which one to go for here’s what I’d do.
Ultimately, ODEON’s is cheaper but if you can combine the Cineworld with Meerkat Movies, then the latter is a better option.
If that’s not a deal-breaker for you, I’d look at which has the most screens and which ones tend to show the films you want to see. If it’s just standard blockbusters both should have them on, but if you want smaller films that might not be the case.
Here’s where I’ll post any particularly decent eBay deals and offers, whether selling or buying!
As you’d expect there are thousands of different products! Often you’ll see well-known shops selling on eBay now at prices less than their own website. Office and Argos are just some with “outlet” shops on eBay.
The ones to watch out for are a 20% off at eBay flash sale which tends to happen between Christmas and New Year, and similar discounts throughout the year.
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Buying offers
£5 off £15 cashback
Opt in to a flash offer on cashback site Quidco and you’ll get an extra £5 off a £15 spend at eBay until 09.59 on Friday 29 November 2024.
If you click through from a link on the Vouchercodes site to eBay and then spend £50, you’ll be able to claim a £15 supermarket voucher.
You need to register for the offer at Vouchercodes first. The full terms and conditions will be listed when you do this, but keys ones are the £50 doesn’t include delivery and you can’t pay with gift cards.
You can combine it with any promo code offered by eBay though, and these are pretty frequent.
For Black Friday, eBay is offering 20% off at specific merchants using the code BLACKFRIDAY20. It runs until 11:59pm on 2 December 2024 and there’s a minimum spend of £9.99 and a maximum discount of £75.
Make sure you compare prices elsewhere though as it might be cheaper at another retailer even with eBay’s discount.
You can also get 3% cashback using Quidco, and if you haven’t got an account yet, you can get a welcome bonus of £24.
This offer is running just for one hour (between noon and 1pm) on Tuesday 14 February 2023. You’ll get 30 points per £1 spent. That is the equivalent of 15% back, though you can only get this on one purchase. You must also have paid for the item in this hour, so don’t leave it too late in case there’s an issue.
You’ll need to spend at least £10 and you’ll only get the bonus points on the first £300 spent. Make sure you activate the offer too!
£5 or £15 vouchers when you buy two or more items (expired)
This deal runs until 28 November 2022 and rewards you for buying non-new items (including both second-hand and refurbished) with coupons to spend on the site.
Buy two items and you’ll get a £5 voucher, increasing to £15 if you buy five items. You can only redeem one voucher per user.
Another eBay deal, this time offering 20% off second hand or refurbished at selected retailers. The code for 20% is BETTER20. The code expires at midnight on 24 November 2022
There’s a minimum spend of £9.99. Retailers include Currys, Crampton & Moore and Music Magpie. The code can be used three times.
Do always price check elsewhere before buying though as they could be cheaper even without the discount.
If you’re with O2 for your mobile phone, head to the Priority app or site to claim a £10 voucher when you sell an item on eBay that sells for more than £10. The offer ends 18 July 2021.
The full terms and conditions can be found on the Priority site, but broadly to qualify you need to:
• have opted-in to the promotion through the redemption link via Priority • list an item in auction-style or fixed price format on ebay.co.uk during the Promotional Period • sell one item in the first listing period for at least £10 (excluding shipping costs) and the item has been paid for or you have marked them as paid • have not sold an item in the past 12 months
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