Eating ethically

In an ideal world I’d always stick to my principles, but it’s not always easy, especially with food.

Seeing as it’s currently Fairtrade Fortnight, a two-week celebration of the Fairtrade stamp and all the good the Fairtrade Foundation does, I thought I’d delve a little deeper into some of the foodie consumer choices we can make to see just how easy or hard it is to make a stand.

My ethical eating challenges

I’ve had spells where ethical decisions have heavily influenced how I ate, but I always seem to make compromises which water down my resolve. Sometimes it’s down to cost, other times it’s convenience.

But there’s also an aspect of feeling overwhelmed and even confused by the decisions that need making. This is the biggest challenge I find to eating ethically. Even when I feel I’m doing a “good thing”, there’s something I’m not doing which cancels it out.

I know it’s not realistic for me to get it right all the time, so I’ve reached a happy medium where I’ll do what I can.

I still try to do more, and over the last year I’ve moved to only Fairtrade chocolate (thanks to the delicious and good value Tony’s Chocolonely) and reduced my meat consumption.

If this sounds like something you’d also like to do more of, then here are a few of the ethical dilemmas to consider at the supermarket.

It won’t always be easy, and I can’t promise you answers – but it will hopefully help you focus on where to concentrate your efforts.

Fair pay and rights for producers

Brits are a caring bunch. Each year we give more and more money for humanitarian causes – basically helping people. With food, this often boils down to workers’ rights, pay and conditions.

Fairtrade

Fairtrade is probably the biggest help here. From bananas to coffee, and even things like wine and nuts, this stamp tells us the farmers are getting a fair deal. I like Fairtrade, and genuinely believe it’s a good thing, not just via the price paid to producers, but also in the wider work the Fairtrade Foundation does in communities across the world.

But it’s not perfect. Sometimes prices still aren’t enough. And I have concerns “greenwashing”. Some big brands, such as Nestle, appear to have a small number of products certificated by the scheme (though last summer they dropped Fairtrade choc from KitKats). This gives the appearance that they are an ethical brand, yet the vast bulk of their business carries on with normal, and often unfair, working practices.

However, the argument the other way is persuasive too. Even a small amount of big brand products certified as Fairtrade can make a big difference to producers due to the scale these products are sold at.

I’m not entirely convinced by this, but overall I think yes, buying Fairtrade does make a difference.

Other certification schemes

Recently there’s been a problematic development. A few big brands are replacing Fairtrade with their own schemes.

A few years ago, Green & Blacks (owned by Mondelez, which also owns Cadbury’s) released a new type of choc which, for the first time, wasn’t Fairtrade. Instead it’s under Mondelez’s own Cocoa Life programme, and other certified choc made by Mondelez will follow suit and drop Fairtrade.

Sainsbury’s also switched all its own-brand tea from Fairtrade to its own “fairly traded” scheme. And as mentioned, Nestle dropped KitKats to its’ own scheme.

I find these other schemes more difficult to trust. As a consumer I don’t know what the label promises, and without wider oversight how can we be sure it’s really any better than anything else.

Personally, I’d aim to stick to Fairtrade if you can, and it’s worth putting pressure on the manufacturers and retailers to do the same. 

UK producers

But eating ethically to help people isn’t just about overseas farmers. You might remember the milk price wars from 2015, where farmers revolted at the price supermarket were forcing them to accept. The amount didn’t even cover the cost of production (and in some cases it still doesn’t).

It’s difficult to know when a fair price is being paid. As a rule Co-op, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer are better options, though Tesco and Sainsbury’s both promise a fair price to dairy farmers.

Animal welfare

Meat

Obviously the most ethical way to support animal welfare is to not eat meat.

About 15 years ago I briefly gave this a go. I was in Australia’s outback and I’d just seen a double-decker, double-length lorry transporting cows. Really distressed cows. Seriously, the noise they were making was just heartbreaking. Then the driver got out and started jabbing through the small holes in the truck with an electric cattle prod, and he did it with a lot of enthusiasm. It made me feel sick.

I’d always been concerned about animal welfare but this was what prompted me to take some action. I was now a vegetarian. Except it didn’t last. The very next morning, more out of muscle memory rather than a conscious decision, I ate a sausage roll! I’d lasted just 20 hours. No doubt that’s the most pathetic attempt at vegetarianism ever.

I spat the sausage roll out and started again, avoiding meat for a few more weeks before deciding I’d instead just eat high-welfare meat.

In the supermarket Soil Association certified organic is usually the highest standard, followed by free-range and then outdoor reared and RSPCA Assured certified (previously called Freedom Food). Some supermarkets, including Waitrose and Marks & Spencers, also have their own higher standards which are similar to the RSPCA requirements.

Of course, these all cost a lot more money so I tend to stock up on special offers and reduced food and whacking them in the freezer for later use.  

What makes this rule difficult is eating out or going to a friend’s for dinner. I vividly remember eating a pea risotto on a date, while she tucked into a steak.

So for the last ten or so years I’ve instead gone for a more flexible approach. If I’m out, I’ll eat what is on offer – though I’ll try to pick an ethical option.

And at home or out it’s so much easier now veganism has become mainstream. There are some really good meat substitutes available from supermarkets, and of course just cooking veg based meals. We’re trying to have a couple of meat free days each week.

But importantly I’ve not had a KFC or dodgy late-night kebab since that day in 2006.

Fish

Look here for MSC certified fish (it’s a blue sticker), which means the stock levels in the sea are sustainable and ok for you to eat. Oh, and I know dolphins are mammals, but try to buy line-caught tuna rather than net caught.

Eggs

Really easy here isn’t it? Always buy free-range. Except even then it’s not all rosy for the chickens. This Guardian article is particularly enlightening. Soil Association certificed organic once more has the highest welfare standards. Still don’t buy anything that’s not free-range or above.

Dairy

A few years ago I watched a BBC Three comedy/documentary by Simon Amstell (off Never Mind the Buzzcocks). I didn’t realise he was a vegan, and this was his ode to giving up meat completely. It’s a weird watch, and (deliberately) disturbing at times.

But it did make me think differently about dairy farming. Though Soil Association has the best standards for the welfare of the cows, there are still ethical concerns – a big reason many people do go vegan.

If this is something you’d like to know more about, I’d recommend watching the programme on iPlayer.

Politics and the environment

I could write a lot more here on these topics, but I just don’t have the space in this article.

The environment

The hottest issue for the last few years (literally) and it’s been the biggest motivator in people trying veganism.

Buying local and seasonal certainly helps reduce carbon emissions, though they’re nothing compared to the pollution caused by farming meat.

Some argue that even veggie and vegan staples such as quinoa, soy and almond milk have an impact on the environment. Which is true, though no where near as much carbon emissions are produced, so eating less meat can be a good move. 

Another easy way to help is to reduce food waste. Chucking away food you forget about or don’t finish means you’ll buy more grub. That doesn’t just cost you more money, it means more food miles, processing etc in the replacement food you buy. Your freezer can be your friend here.

Packaging and plastics are huge here too. Can you buy loose rather than packaged fruit and veg? Or meat and fish off the counter rather than shelves? Try to recycle and reuse as much packing as possible – or ideally avoid it. I don’t use those small bags for loose fruit and veg, and I’ll always bring my own tote bags for packing.

Your money can also actively help the environment if you pick things like Rainforest Alliance certified coffee.

But there’s so much more you could do, so it’s up to you where you focus your efforts. I still haven’t got into reading more about palm oil which seems to be in almost everything, but it’s one to avoid if you can.

Politics

Obviously your decisions will depend on your wider political views. A couple of the main issues I struggle with are:

So many brands owned by bigger conglomerates. Pringles are a good example – they were owned by Proctor & Gamble who test on animals (obviously not the crisps) until recently. And PepsiCo has been criticised for supporting modern slavery through its palm oil production (which also increases deforestation).

It means that it’s often impossible to know if I’m inadvertently buying something ultimately owned by a brand doing something I disagree with.

There also are groups that call for consumers to boycott produce that’s originated in Israel, as it could actually be from the occupied territories. Though equally it could be from within Israel. Or there are reports which connect avocados with Mexican drug cartels. It’s difficult to know!

Again, I think the answer is to find out about issues you are particularly passionate about and see if there are any real villains you need to avoid. And build from there.

How supermarkets measure up

As I said earlier, I try to stick with Waitrose and M&S Food, particularly for meat. Ethical Consumer magazine scores all the supermarkets on politics, animals, people, the environment and sustainability.

At the time of writing, Co-op, Waitrose and M&S all do well, with Asda and Tesco at the bottom of the table.

Lessons from getting a new kitchen fitted

What went well and what didn’t when we got a new kitchen.

When we started looking at getting our kitchen replaced I was amazed at just how much new ones can cost. We’re possibly talking tens of thousands of pounds. Even budget options don’t come cheap. 

We shopped around a few different suppliers, big and small. I did a fair bit of research, including reading the guides on Which? magazine to get an idea of reliability and durability. Finally though, we went with the kitchen we liked the best, which was sold by Magnet.

Well actually, it was the second-best one we liked, essentially the next model down. But the style was very similar and it came in the same colour choices. Most importantly the price was decent compared to other similar options.

Even so, it wasn’t smooth sailing. Here’s what we did that worked out well, and the things we wish we’d done differently.

Choosing your kitchen

Look for inspiration

We looked in loads of brochures and websites to get new ideas and inspiration that was invaluable in shaping what we wanted. This was really important as the most expensive mistake you can make is to have a kitchen fitted that you don’t like or isn’t fit for purpose.

Get some plans drawn up

When we then started looking in ernest, we arranged a visit from Magnet to measure up and draw out some plans. These really helped us work out where we wanted things and visualise how it’d look in our space.

Tell them what you want and where

Though these salesmen should, in theory, know about kitchen design, I was surprised how much more I instinctively knew. For example there’s a well-known rule called the Kitchen Triangle”, where you want the flow between sink, oven and fridge to be triangle-shaped and generally unobstructed and relatively close to each other. Yes rules can, and often should, be broken, but their initial plans completely ignored those basic principles. So we had to clearly say what we wanted and where. You’re spending a lot of money here so make sure you get what you want!

Don’t order what you don’t want

Of course, the suppliers want you to buy as much as possible from them, which means adding things to sketches you didn’t necessarily want. They hope once you see them in the images you’ll feel you can’t go without. This could be whole extra units, or it could just be smaller extras such as lighting.

Check those plans

Despite going through a few iterations to get the kitchen just right, we still found not everything was updated on the plans, or wrong items had been put on the order (for example, white end panels rather than blue). So just double, actually triple, check everything.

Paying for your kitchen

Buy it yourself

It’s tempting to get a builder to order on your behalf if they’re going to be fitting it for you (more on that in a bit). The main motivation here is they can often get a trade discount. Great. But there’s a big, big risk.

We actually had a builder lined up to start work on our house almost 10 months before it actually happened, and we were going to order the kitchen via him. But, just weeks before we were due to get started he went bankrupt. Fortunately, we hadn’t handed over any cash, but if we had then we’d have likely lost it all.

Plus, if you’re project managing further renovations at your property, there’s no reason you can’t be “trade” too. That’s what our friend did last year.

Haggle on the final price

These big stores always seem to have a sale on, and in my experience they’ve got room to move on those too. So get them to quote and ask what they can do to help bring the price down.

Pay some of the deposit on a credit card

It doesn’t have to be the full amount, but if you put down some of the money via a credit card, then you will get Section 75 protection. This is an extra layer of consumer rights which would make the credit card company equally liable if something was to go wrong. However, the kitchen does have to cost less than £30,000.

Consider 0% finance

I’m not someone who likes to borrow money, but we did take the kitchen out on a 12-month finance deal. Now, we actually have the cash, and could have paid for it. But by putting it on finance it just gave us some wiggle room in case of unexpected costs (which did come up in our building work), and we could leave it earning some interest. Of course, I’m going to pay it all off before the 12-month period ends to ensure I don’t get charged any interest at all.

Buying your appliances

I avoided buying any appliances direct from Magnet. Apart from the fact the range is often limited, you’re also likely to pay more than if you source them yourself. I was able to shop around and get better appliances for less money. And that’s not just big things like the oven and fridge. I also shopped around for the tap and sink.

Look for price-matching deals

Once we identified the oven we wanted, I looked around for the best price. Once I found it at a decent price, I then got John Lewis to price-match, which meant we also got a two-year guarantee.

Haggle on large orders

If you’re buying lots of new appliances then it’s worth seeing if suppliers will give you a deal. I found our fridge and freezer at the lowest prices from Mark’s Electrical and got them to give me a further discount on a dishwasher if I bought them all at the same time. 

Get graded appliances

Graded appliances are usually ex-display items which might have the odd scratch or knock, and they can be heavily discounted. You can usually look at photos to see the extent of any damage, if any.

I picked up a Smeg extractor fan from The Appliance Depot for £170 rather than the full price of £330 from AO. When it arrived the only thing wrong with it was the box had been damaged!

Fitting your kitchen

Get the measurements double-checked

The Magnet salesman came over early on and measured our kitchen to help draw up the plans. But it turned out they’d measure wrong – by around 30 centimetres! This obviously meant that not everything we ordered fitted in the space! We got it sorted, but if we did it again I’d demand they come around and measure the kitchen again before the final order went in. 

Get your kitchen supplier to fit your kitchen

As we had a fair amount of other work going on in the house, including some structural changes to the kitchen itself, it made sense to get our builder to also fit the kitchen. This was a mistake. 

First, the builders refused to fit the acrylic worktop we ordered saying it wasn’t worth the risk if something went wrong. It then transpired that there were only a couple of kitchen fitters in our town who were willing to work with that material. So we had to pay more for a “specialist” to come around to fit the worktops.

Then, even though the fitters were really nice and worked hard, they weren’t familiar with Magnet’s kitchens (which you’d think they would). And they struggled. It took a lot longer than planned, and though we had a fixed quote the knock-on was they rushed bits of it.

At first glance it all looked great, but then we spotted things which were wrong. Though we got a lot of those things adjusted, we had to be on it and badger the fitters to fix them.

And even then there were things which the builders blame on Magnet and Magnet blame on the builders. They could both be right, and the things that are left aren’t the end of the world. For an easy life we’ve decided we can live with these imperfections and annoyances – mainly so we don’t have to face any further disruption and stress by trying to get them fixed.

But in hindsight, we could have avoided all of this by getting Magnet to fit the kitchen. Anything that wasn’t right would lay purely with Magnet, and make any fight to get things fixed much easier.

Travel money: my top ways to spend on holiday

With peak holiday season almost here, it’s a good time to talk about travel money – and the cheapest ways to spend abroad.

It’s possible to save hundreds of pounds just by choosing the best way to pay when abroad. Of course, this all depends on where you go, the type of holiday you have and how many of you are going. But these are the principles I follow, and you should be able to pick and mix to fit your holiday.

I’ve first taken a look at using credit and debit cards abroad, the further down I’ve shared my tips on travel cash.
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Some articles on the blog contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund the blog. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or the blog’s independence. Read more here.

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Travel credit and debit cards

I use specialist cards for overseas spending

Normal bank cards are usually really expensive to use outside the UK. Most credit and debit cards companies add a 3%-or-so markup to the exchange rate. This is often called a “load fee”. There’s also often a charge per transaction, usually another quid or so, and another charge for using a cash machine.

The cards I use don’t charge these extras. In fact they give an almost perfect exchange rate, so they’re better than using a bureau de change. Savings are potentially worth around £30 to 40 per £1,000 when compared to changing your money at the airport.

The Halifax Clarity card has been the main card I’ve used for the last five or six years. It’s saved me a fortune, with the only charges coming in interest on cash machine withdrawals – though these can be avoided by paying off the balance straight away. 

However my top card to use is now the Tandem credit card, which gives 0.5% cashback as well as fee-free spending. As with the Clarity, I obviously clear the balance in full each month to make sure there’s no interest charged.

I always pay in the local currency

This is an easy trick to get caught out by. You’re often asked if you want to pay in pounds or whatever the local currency is. If you chose pounds, the exchange rate will be far worse. So always choose euros, dollars or whatever it is. Just not pounds.

I take a backup card

You never know what could happen. A few years ago we traveled around South and Central America for six months. Not long into the trip I was pickpocketed, losing some cash and my essential Halifax Clarity card.

Luckily I had another card – and some cash – locked in the hostel safe, so we weren’t completely screwed. And when our friend joined us a month later, she bought over our replacement cards.

Right now, as a back up I use either my Starling or my Monzo current account. Starling has the edge over Monzo as it doesn’t have any limit on cash machine withdrawals abroad.

Also not everywhere takes Mastercard, so if it’s a long trip I’ll always have a Visa at hand just in case. This is my Nationwide Select credit card which is available to people with a Nationwide bank account. It doesn’t charge fees on purchases abroad either – though it does add on a fair whack for cash machine use. 

Travel cash

Though I use cards most of the time, it’s always handy to have cash – and there are plenty of places I’ve been where cards aren’t accepted.

I don’t take too much cash with me

It’s always difficult to know how much cash to take. I don’t want too much that I’m worried about having it on me, and I don’t want any left over at the end that’d I’d need to change back. But at the same time I don’t want to get stuck in a place where my cards aren’t accepted.

It depends too where you go. When I went to Cuba (this was in 2010 so things are likely to have changed) I took a lot more cash with me than I would if I went to France.

As a general rule I’ll always make sure I’ve enough to cover the essentials when I arrive such as transport from the airport, and then perhaps just £100 extra.

I order travel money in advance

One of the biggest mistakes people make is to leave exchanging cash until the airport. Do this and you’ll get the worst exchange rates.

Instead, order your money in advance. I use Money Saving Expert’s brilliant Travel Money Max comparison tool to find the cheapest option near me.

When I lived in London, this was often at one of three or four different bureaux de changes. I would generally pre-order and then collect it the next working day. It’s cheaper to exchange cash rather than pay with a credit or debit card.

Other options on Travel Money Max are to have the cash delivered by post, or to collect from an airport – still cheaper than walking up on the day you travel.

If you won’t want to shop around then John Lewis Finance price matches the other high street prices, and it’s possible to order to click and collect from Waitrose if you change more than £500.

I’ll rarely use cash machines overseas

Most debit and credit cards are an absolute nightmare for added fees. Most UK banks will not only charge a fee between 2% and 3% for each transaction, there’s often an extra fee for using a cash machine. This can easily be a couple of quid. Some charge a percentage which can work out as high as £4 per withdrawal.

These are on top of any charges you get from the local bank. We’re very lucky in the UK that we can take money out of most ATMs for free. In most countries I’ve been to that isn’t the case.

If I do need to withdraw any extra cash when abroad, I generally use one of the specialist cards mentioned above.

It’s worth noting with most specialist credit cards you do get charged interest on cash withdrawals, though this isn’t much if you pay the balance off quickly. There’s also a slight risk to your credit rating by using a credit card for cash withdrawals, though I’ve never had a problem myself.

Plus even though all these cards are “fee-free”, you might still get charged a cash machine fee by the local bank.

I pay upfront if I can

Whenever possible, I’ll pay in advance. And if I can, I choose the local currency and use my Halifax Clarity card.

This not only helps me budget as I’ll know what I’ve already spent, but it reduces the risks of cards or cash machines not working – a nightmare we faced in Uruguay and Bolivia a few years ago.

Watch more tips from me on getting the best rate when spending abroad on Shop Smart Save Money (May 2019)

Are Easter Eggs worth the money?

Easter is only a few weeks away and the supermarkets are adding more and more chocolate goods to the shelves. Are they worth buying, or are you being ripped off?

Plus, your chance to win Hotel Chocolat easter goodies!

This week myself, seven other money bloggers, journalists from the Telegraph and Mirror and the teams at Quidco and CheckoutSmart took part in a blind taste testing. It was all part of my UK Money Bloggers community, and Quidco very kindly sponsored the event.

Our mission: To find the best value Easter Eggs.

It was a lot of fun, with some big surprises. Lindt – which I normally like – was one of my least favourite, and big brands like Thorntons and Cadburys were pretty average. One of my favourites turned out to be a Free-from egg from Asda, and their own brand Extra Special Egg was really tasty too.

When we looked at the prices, it had a huge affect on our faves. The Divine Fairtrade egg and Heston by Waitrose egg both scored highly for taste, but when their huge prices were revealed (£20 for the Heston one! A crazy amount even if it was painted gold) they became the two worst value for money eggs of the 12 we tested.

>> Read the full results of the UK Money Blogger / Quidco Easter Egg blind taste test

Overall, the winner for both taste and value was a Mars bar egg. It tasted good and was pretty cheap – but that’s not always the case with Easter Eggs.

Do Easter Eggs give you value for money?

I’ve taken a look at a few of the popular options to give you a sense of whether you’re getting value for money.

Are easter eggs worth the money

As you can see, buying a Cadbury Dairy Milk egg is 36% more expensive than buying the equivalent in Dairy Milk Bars. It’s a similar story for most eggs of this size and brand.

When you go premium, it’s jaw-droppingly outrageous just how much more you spend for an egg. Divine is generally pretty tasty, and many are happy to pay a little extra for the ethics of Fairtrade. But buying their egg is 263% more expensive than a bar of the same chocolate. TWO HUNDRED AND SIXTY THREE! You could have two bars and four times as much chocolate for the same price. Or just save yourself some cash and calories by buying one bar.

There are exceptions. I looked at a few mini eggs and they actually worked out pretty good value. The Galaxy Caramel eggs were 5% cheaper than buying the same amount in Galaxy Caramel bars.

Offers just in time for Easter

Of course, special offers can make a big difference. But with Easter Eggs you really need to make sure you don’t get caught up in the excitement of the offer.

A few weeks back Tesco offered “Buy two, get two free” on most of their eggs. Great! Except do you really need four eggs?

And remember, part of the reason we see the Easter chocolate on the shelves straight after Christmas is so they can be sold at a higher price long enough for “special offers” to kick in when people want to buy them. I may be slightly cynical here, but there’s no need for the supermarkets to discount the eggs as loss leaders. People will buy them anyway.

They expect you to buy two for £7 or three for £10. They don’t expect you to pay the full price.

>> My guide to deciphering supermarket deals and special offers

It’s not just about the taste

I’m happy with my chocolate in bars rather than egg shaped, but most people like unwrapping the foil and smashing the egg. It’s a treat to have it like this once a year. I get it.

So my tip for you if you want to buy an egg but don’t want to get ripped off is to compare the price per unit on the shelf label. This will include any extras, such as Buttons or Mars Bars, but it’ll help you compare the different options for value.

And don’t forget to see how we all rated the different eggs at our taste test!

I’d definitely avoid the show off eggs such as Heston by Waitrose. Yes it’s gold and has “edible” straw (basically tasteless rice paper), but you can get good tasting eggs for far more reasonable prices. My top tip is the Asda Extra Special Belgian Chocolate Egg. Just £2, the egg was really thick and creamy and the packaging makes it feel like you’ve picked it up from a posher place than the supermarket.

Easter chocolate competition

Quidco have very kindly given all the bloggers in my UK Money Bloggers community these delicious Hotel Chocolat Easter goodies as prizes. It’s free to enter and closes at midnight on Sunday 20th March 2016.

If you like the idea of Hotel Choc treats (they are pretty expensive!) you can get 12% cashback right now on Quidco, which helps to justify some luxury choc a little!

Easter egg competition

Win Hotel Chocolat Easter goodies!

How much mobile data do you really need?

You’re probably paying for far more data than you actually use. Here’s how to work out the right allowance for your phone.

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Contents

  •  How to check how much data you use
  •  How to reduce how much data you need
  • Reduce how much you pay for your mobile data

Some articles on the blog contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund the blog. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or the blog’s independence. Read more here.

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It’s now more common than not for mobile deals to come with unlimited text messages and even unlimited minutes as standard, which I think is great. If these are standard it means the difference in tariff prices is often down to the size of your data allowance. So the more you pay, the more data you’ll have every month.

And I’ve seen some ridiculous deals recently offering huge amounts of data for quite low prices. Unlimited data for £20 a month seems good, doesn’t it? And it is. If you need unlimited data.

But I’m going to say that you don’t need unlimited data. Or 40GB. Even 12GB is more than most of you should be using. So even with these cut-price contract special offers, it’s likely your bill will still be bigger than it needs to be.

Instead you’ll probably be far better off with a lower allowance at an even lower price. The key is to work out how much data you need.

How to check how much data you use

If your network has an app or online account, there’s a good chance you can check your usage through it. You should see your history over the last few months, as well as the running total for the current month. If you don’t have this in our account, you can call up your network and ask them to share this data with you.

I’m with Three and the app shows I usually use just under 2GB each month, and my usage only edges closer to 3GB on occasion. I very, very rarely head towards 4GB, and never more than this.

From this data I know I don’t need more than 4GB – and that’s likely enough for the average user. It’s possible to find SIM-only deals at this level for under a tenner every month – which is probably a lot less than you’re paying now.

So, first of all, check your current usage and compare that to what you’re paying for. Just doing this could significantly cut your bill. The next step is to look at how you actually use the data in your allowance. 

How to reduce how much data you need

Me being me, I’m careful with my data usage. By using some simple tricks I avoid unnecessarily racking up the megabytes. You won’t be able to copy me 100%, but following these principles will mean you avoid wasting data. And the less data you waste, the lower monthly allowance you actually need.  

Download music and movies rather than stream

Movies and TV are two of the biggest drains on your data allowance. Streaming a two-hour movie in SD could use close to 2GB. If it’s in HD it’s double. So don’t stream video.

Instead you should download it when you’re connected to Wi-Fi. The videos are then ready for you to watch offline. You can do this with iPlayer, Netflix, Amazon Prime and NOW TV and the other catch up services too. 

Though music files are a lot smaller you should download your Spotify playlists and podcasts too. It takes no time at all.

Turn off mobile data

Once you’ve done this you need to turn off the ability for some apps to use mobile data. I do this for anything that could eat up a lot of data, so not just video and music apps. Doing this means they’ll only work when you’re connected to Wi-Fi. It’s easy to quickly flick this option back on if you do need to use the app via mobile data.

While you’re at it, you can go through all the settings on your phone to reduce background data use by apps. Pick and choose. You don’t need your email folder to constantly check for new messages, though you probably do want to get What’s App messages when they are sent.

Use Wi-Fi as much as you can

You should always be connected to Wi-Fi at home, and ideally at work too. This will reduce a huge amount of your data use.

Be careful though about using certain apps if the Wi-Fi isn’t secure. If you’re not sure, quickly flick back to mobile data to log-in to things like mobile banking or when paying for something. But most of the time if you’re just browsing the web this makes a big difference.

Watch out for auto-play videos

Even by following the above steps it’s possible to get caught out. Some webpages and apps will autoplay videos, often adverts. If you’re worried about your data allowance and this happens just close the tab on your browser. 

With social networks it’s worth checking the settings so videos only autoplay on Wi-Fi. You can still choose to watch those videos, but at least you’re in control.

Use data exempt apps

Some SIM deals will let you use certain apps without impacting your data usage. For example, Three has Go Binge with unlimited streaming of Netflix, Apple Music, Deezer and others; Sky Mobile includes unlimited Sky Go streaming; and EE offers six months of Apple Music and Amazon Video.

Carry unused data over

A couple of networks let you carry unused data over each month, rather than lose it. Sky, ID and Virgin are among those which allow data rollover, while Smarty will refund £1.25 to your bill for every 1GB you don’t use.

Reduce how much you pay for your mobile data

Once you know how much you actually need, it’s time to change what you pay. This might be as simple as moving down a level with your existing network. Or you could shop around to see what some of the smaller networks are offering – it’ll likely be cheaper.

But you can also use this information to haggle for a better deal. Some networks are desperate to keep you and will offer big discounts. I threatened to quit Three last month and in response they offered me 20GB for £15 a month.

I knew I didn’t need that much data, and I also didn’t want to pay that much money. So I stood firm. In the end I accepted an offer of 8GB for £10 – that’s £2 less than I’d previously been paying for just 4GB.

Even though that’s way more than I need, the price is at a level I’m happy to pay. And it also means I’ve got a little more wiggle room on data every month.

Read more about cutting the cost of your mobile phone

How to get the best price on your mobile phone contract and save

14 apps to save you money on your holiday

How to sell your old phone and make some money

How anyone can get Vodafone’s VeryMe rewards

You don’t have to be on a Vodafone contract to access the rewards app VeryMe. Here’s how anyone can get it, and how to use it to save money at the cinema and more.

Vodafone has joined Three (Wuntu) and O2 (Priority) to offer customers offers and freebies via a loyalty app. Like the rival apps, I think VeryMe is hit and miss, but there are some decent offers on there.

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

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How to get VeryMe rewards

You access the deals via an app. If you’re already with Vodafone then all you need to do is download the My Vodafone app. This lets you manage your account. There’s also a button on the app’s home page labelled VeryMe Rewards. Click on this to see all the deals.

If you’re not with Vodafone then you obviously need to join the network – but you don’t have to ditch your current provider. First you need to unlock your phone. You might actually find it already is, but you can call your network to ask them to confirm. If it is you’ll need to ask them to unlock it. They might charge you if you’re still in the first six months or year of a contract.

Once it’s unlocked you can request a free Pay-as-you-go SIM from Vodafone. I ordered mine online and it arrived within a few days. Whack this in your phone and you’ll be able to connect to the Network and validate the My Vodafone app. You need to get a 4G signal for this – something I struggled with!

Once this is done you can put your normal SIM back in the phone – but you’ll still have access to the My Vodafone app.

You’re nearly all set – but here’s the catch. Unlike similar tricks with O2 and Three, you need to put £10 on the SIM in order to see the deals. And you can only use them for the next six weeks. After this you’ll need to top-up again by £10, and you’ll get access for another six weeks. And so on.

> Get your free Vodafone Pay-as-you-go SIM card

Are the deals any good?

In the six weeks I used the app (in December 2018 and January 2019) I only actually took advantage of two deals – and they weren’t amazing. However, there were a few freebies which would be welcome if you like Costa Coffee or have a Millies Cookies near you. Here are some of the offers that appeared in my first six weeks:

  • Two Odeon tickets for £7 – this runs every week
  • Free Millie’s cookie – this has run a few times
  • Free Costa Coffee – again, this has been a regular deal
  • Free Tesco lunch meal deal
  • £10 credit to spend on movie rentals at Chili (from a set selection)

Since then I’ve kept an eye on offerings and it’s been pretty similar, with brands like Hotel Chocolate, Greggs and Thorntons also giving away freebies.

There has also been a range of discount codes and free trials, though nothing that stood out to me as better than what you’d find with a quick internet search.

So at first glance, it seems you’d probably break even if you did choose to top-up by £10 every six weeks, if not be a few quid better off. But it’s worth asking yourself whether you’d buy these things anyway, and if it’s worth the hassle just to get the odd freebie.

However, if you regularly go to a Vue to see films then this could be a big saver. Here’s how to make it work.

Is the Vue offer on Vodafone’s VeryMe any good?

*For the first year, this promotion was for Odeon cinemas. but from November 2019 it switched over to Vue cinemas.

The offer is £7 for two Vue tickets any day of the week, at any time of the day. You get one code every week, with new ones issued on a Thursday. And I think that’s pretty good. It’s hard, though not impossible, to beat this £3.50 a ticket offer.

Of course with the £10 top-up, that makes the real cost £17 for two tickets, or £8.50 per ticket. Not so great, especially if you are going on a Tuesday or Wednesday when you can use Meerkat Movies. This offers two-for-one tickets and you can get access for just £1 a year. And if you can go to different chains you can often get the price down on other days.

However there are quite a few Vue cinemas where this is still a good saving, even on child prices. This is especially the case in London and at weekends when prices can be £12.50 or more.

But to really max your savings you need to time your top-up so you go at least twice in a six week period. Do this and the price drops down to £6 a ticket. If you manage three visits, you’re paying just over a fiver. And when the six week period ends you don’t need to add money on straight away. You can wait until your next visit before topping up, starting the cycle again.

> More cinema deals

Is it worth switching to Vodafone for VeryMe?

If you’re already on Vodafone then it’s good to nab these extras, but I wouldn’t move your contract over just for this. You can usually get a far cheaper deal by going SIM only at a challenger network, and you’ll probably save more money every month than you can claim in freebies.

And for most of you I don’t think the Pay-as-you-go trick detailed above will be worth the effort or occasional £10 top up. However, if you do go to an Vue regularly at the weekend – at least twice every six weeks – then it’s a good way to pay less for your tickets.

How does it compare to Three’s Wuntu and O2 Priority?

I’m with Three and regularly check the Wuntu app, while Becky is with O2. I think both used to be a touch better than VeryMe, but they are nowhere near as good as they once were and VeryMe just has the edge now. However the freebies and offers with all three can be very dependent on where you live. 

All three are nice to have features, but I wouldn’t choose these networks just for the extras. Price and signal should be your main motivators. 

> Get O2 Priority Moments if you’re not on O2

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My holiday finances checklist

When you go on holiday there’s bound to be something you forget – but I’d much rather leave behind my toothbrush than head overseas without checking off these money matters from my holiday checklist.

It’s all stuff that will probably affect you too, so here’s my finance related to-do list to help you think about what you still need to do.

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

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Find my GHIC

Because of Brexit, the old European Health Insurance Cards (EHIC) are no longer valid. But in their place is the GHIC – Global Health Insurance Card. And despite the name, it’s essential for trips to Europe.

One of these cards will get you access to healthcare at the same prices as a local. That’s vital, not just in terms of saving money, but also to ensure your travel insurance will validate any claims.

If you already have one, check the expiry date. Each summer holidaymakers find out too late for their trip that they should have renewed their card.

If you need a new one, watch out for websites charging you to apply – they’re scamming you. Instead, apply or renew for free through gov.uk.

You’ll also need to check that your destination is covered. As mentioned, the name Global is deceptive. It’s still just Europe, and even then not every European country comes under the agreement, so it’s always worth checking.

Check my insurance

Sadly, a GHIC isn’t enough on its own. You still needed full travel insurance.

A mistake people often make is waiting until a few days before they travel to get insurance. Though you’d be covered if something went wrong when you were away, you’re at risk of missing out if your airline went bust, lost your job and couldn’t afford to go, or if you were too ill to travel. So get it as soon as you book!

I know it’s a pain, but do read the summary documents at least so you can see what is and what isn’t covered, and by how much. It’s often a case that cheapest isn’t best, especially if you can’t actually use it if something goes wrong.

If you’re going away multiple times this year it might be worth considering annual policies, but for a single weekend or fortnight then a shorter policy will suffice. Likewise, don’t buy a worldwide policy if you’re only going to Europe.

Also make sure you’re not covered elsewhere. Some credit cards and current accounts come with travel insurance (though again, check what the policy actually covers), while some home insurance policies will include partial cover that might mean you don’t need extras on things like possessions outside of the home.

Check passports and visas

It’s obviously vital to check your passport is still valid, but it’s often not as simple as having not expired. Some countries require you to have at least six months left on it when you travel, while in Europe it can’t be more than 10 years old – even if there are plenty of months left.

It’s well worth checking this regularly, or putting a reminder in your calendar, for a good few months ahead of it expiring or reaching those milestones as delays at the passport office could make it tight to get a new one issued before you travel.

And while you’re at it, make sure you don’t need a visa to enter your destination. There may be a small cost for this.

Buy an international driving permit

Another post-Brexit rule is the requirement in Europe to have a UK sticker on your car if you’re taking it across the channel – that’s the case even if you have a GB or EU flag on your number plate already.

If you’re hiring abroad you’ll need to get a DVLA code, while some countries might also need to buy an international driving permit. These have never been checked when we’ve had one, but it’s worth the £5.50 (plus a passport photo) cost to be safe. You can get one at the Post Office.

Oh, and buying a separate car hire excess insurance before you go will often be far cheaper than adding one on when you get to the car hire desk.

Get a specialist payment card

There are now a number of fee-free cards for both spending and withdrawing cash overseas. I’ve written about them in detail here.

You don’t really need to let your card provider know you’re going away anymore, especially for those designed to be used abroad.

Order travel money

I rarely take much money with me. A lot has usually been prepaid already, and I’ll use my specialist travel credit card where I can, but I also want to have some cash on me.

Usually, I only take a little, just incase there’s an issue with cards at the airport when I arrive. But I’ll check destinations to see if there’s a chance of ATM issues. That’s more likely in far-flung destinations.

The best way to find the top exchange rates is to use Money Saving Expert’s TravelMoneyMax comparison tool. You’ll get the best options in London, though even preordering from the airport will be at a better rate than just rocking up.

Here’s more on getting the best from travel money, including why you should never, ever just exchange when you go to get your flight.

Sort out my phone

Before the days of free-roaming I used to switch off voicemail and turn off any data options before leaving the country – the costs of using both overseas were exorbitant. Sadly for many networks that’s the case once again.

Right now I’m on O2 with the added Volt package that comes from also being a Virgin Media broadband customer so I actually still get to use my allowance in Europe and a handful of other countries. You might not be so lucky.

Check what the deal is for your network and act accordingly. It can often work out better to pre-buy an add-on that gives a certain allowance or caps charges.

If you are trying to avoid massive bills, then my tips on cutting phones costs when you’re on holiday should help. Or you could try an eSIM, which gets you local data, calls and texts for an additional fee.

Last minute holidays – the best way to book

Does a package holiday beat booking yourself? And where to find the best deals. 

As a kid I remember the days of Teletext, watching the late holiday deals pages go around, frantically scribbling down the phone number and prices before the pages disappeared. It was a bit of a pain, and it took ages! Fortunately, it’s all so much easier to nab a last-minute holiday now. Here’s what you need to do to get the lowest prices possible.

Isn’t it better to book early?

Well, if you have set dates you need to travel, a destination you really want to visit or requirements that need to be met, then yes. The later you leave it, the less choice you have.

But if you’re happy to be flexible where you go then you might be able to pick up a cut-price trip by booking anywhere up to one or two months before you want to go away.

You can increase your chances of getting a bargain by travelling out of season, so heading somewhere cooler when everyone is off to get some sun for example. But if you do want sun you can still save during peak beach season. Yes school holidays are expensive, but you can pay less if you go away towards the end of August rather than as soon as schools break up.

You’ll save if something is less convenient too. Getting flights early or late in the day or departing midweek can help make your holiday cheaper, as can departing from less popular airports.

Packages vs DIY

I’m a fan of the DIY holiday. It gives me more choice where I go and what I do. And I’m not one for lounging on the beach for more than one day either! In fact you can often get exactly the same holiday you’d get with a package by booking the components yourself for less.

But when you’re looking at a beach or resort destination, there’s a good chance you’ll get the lowest price via a travel agent or tour operator website. And this is even more likely if you are booking last minute.

When holiday companies produce their package, they commit to the flights and hotel rooms. This gives some decent buying power that means they can offer competitive rates – or make a tidy profit. But if any seats on the planes or rooms in the hotel are empty then they could lose money. So it’s better to sell them at a lower cost or offer extras such as free upgrades. You might even be better off going all-inclusive if the operators are keen to fill spaces, so don’t rule them out.

And of course, there’s added protection when booking a package if something goes wrong thanks to ATOL and ABTA.

How to pick your holiday

The more flexible you are, the more choice you’ll get. That’s not just in terms of dates, but also the airport you fly in and out of.

Yes, price is going to be a big indicator – but there’s no point choosing something you can’t afford. Please don’t be tempted to whack it on a credit card – it’ll cost you even more in the long run! And don’t forget to check how much things cost when you get there. Turkey for example will likely be cheaper than Spain.

But cheap doesn’t necessarily mean good. Always read the reviews. A quick google of the hotel should bring up some results, and there’s always TripAdvisor.

You should check your rights too. With packages sure the holiday provider is ATOL protected. We’ve seen a few holiday companies go bust over the last few years, but if it’s part of ATOL you’ll be flown back, or refunded if you haven’t travelled yet. If you’re booking it yourself use a credit card (as long as it costs more than £100) to give yourself some additional cover – though you should get travel insurance too, however you book.

Where to find a last minute package holiday

You can check prices and offers direct with different operators or agencies such as Tui or Virgin Holidays, or use a comparison site. I’ve read that Ice Lolly is one of the best to use, while there’s also TravelSupermarket.

You can also check out deals sites such as Holiday Pirates and Travel Zoo, while Teletext still exists online.

Compare the package price to a DIY booking

Before you book anything, I do think it’s worth seeing how much you can get the same trip for by booking each part yourself. Use comparison sites Skyscanner and Kayak to compare flights and hotels. It’s worth looking at AirBnB as well to see if you can get a private apartment or villa rather than a resort in the same destination. Just make sure you have the right insurance to protect you if there’s airline failure or similar.

And while you’re at it, look for any destinations you fancy which aren’t offered by the travel operators. You might be able to pick up a fantastic late deal.

In this video I bring down the price of an all-inclusive on Shop Smart Save Money

Not a fan of packages? Check the prices anyway

If, like me, you think a package destination isn’t for you, you probably won’t even look at the likes of Tui and Thompson. But you should.

You can sometimes get packages cheaper than separate flights, something I discovered only after I’d booked my Virgin flights to Cuba some years ago. You don’t have to stay at the package’s hotel, or you can use it as a base for holidays where you’re planning on moving around a lot.

More tips for booking holidays

These articles and videos should help you bring down the price even further.

Getting the best value hotel rooms

How to get the best value hotel rooms

How to find cheap flights

My tricks to save money on flights

All inclusive – is it for you?

In this clip from series three of Shop Smart Save Money I explain some of the pros and cons for all inc hols.

HSBC Advance current account – is it worth it?

A new current account and linked accounts from HSBC offer up to £198 in extra interest payments over a year. Should you get one?

I’m a big believer that loyalty rarely pays in the banking sector, so if you can get a better deal with your current account elsewhere it’s worth looking in to. You can get switching bonuses, cashback and high interest  – read my 6 ways to make your bank pay you article for more details. So how does this new account measure up?

Pros

Open the HSBC Advance Bank Account and you’re eligible to open two customer only savings accounts.

1. High interest ISA

The first is the HSBC Loyalty Cash ISA. You get 1.5% AER which is good for instant access ISAs but not great compared to some current accounts from other banks. However, as long as you pay in a lump sum of £300 or a monthly payment of £25, you’ll have the account topped up by £10 every month for the first year. That’s a free £120.

If you miss a month, you won’t get the tenner for that month. Also, the 1.5% interest on the ISA will drop to 0.5% AER after the first year.

If have you already have an ISA with a low rate, you can transfer that money in. Read my ISA basics for a little more info.

2. High interest regular saver

You’ll also be able to open a 6% AER Regular Saver (it’s normally only 4%). This accounts let you pay in £250 every month for 12 months. If you do that for the whole year you’ll get £97.89 interest before tax on a final balance of £3,000, which is the equivalent of 3.26%.

It’s not a bad rate if you are saving month by month, though if you have a lump sum you can get better elsewhere.

In total that means at the end of a year you’ll have made around £198 in interest on £3,300 of cash, which works out as the equivalent of 6% after tax! Pretty good.

3. You don’t have to switch

Some accounts only give the free cash if you’ve switched and closed your old account. Here you don’t need to, so you can just open one as an extra account.

Cons

To get the HSBC Advance account you need first to pass a credit check (though that’s the case with all new accounts).

You also need to pay in £1,750 every month. That’s roughly an annual salary of £26,500 being paid in every month.

However you don’t need to keep that money in there. You can transfer it straight out again into another account (or to pay your rent and bills!) and have a balance of zero.

So is it any good?

I think it looks like a decent way to get some free cash, and all you need to do is remember to pay in the monthly minimum. I’m certainly going to sign up for one.

At the end of the 12 months I’ll either close it down or switch it to a bank that offers a £100 switching bonus!

There are lots of other accounts you can chose from though, so if you’re only planning on opening one you might be better with one of those.

Also I wouldn’t switch to this account. Halifax have a deal right now with a £125 bonus and £5 a month in interest. That’s going to be a lot easier!