You’ll get up to 2.02% interest on savings, plus a freebies if you switch.
Virgin Money launched its new current account in late 2019, based on the B account from Clydesdale Bank. It has some attractive features such as high interest and fee-free spending overseas, but they’ve not been enough to get me to open an account.
But since late 2020 it got a lot more tempting, offering freebies and discounts to entice customers.
Here’s how the account and offers work and my thoughts on whether it’s worth it. Plus my video takes you through some of the features on the app.
Is the Virgin Money M Plus current account any good?
Let’s take a look at each key feature:
The interest on savings
At 2.02% this is the highest paying easy access account for savings at the moment (by a smidge) so it’s certainly worth considering.
There are a few restrictions. The largest is you will only earn interest on balances up to £1,000. Anything over this will get 0%. That works out as £20.20 in interest a year. Not a huge amount but better than what you’ll get elsewhere.
The linked savings account where you can put further money pays 2.02% on the first £25,000. This is variable but it can be beaten elsewhere. You have the option in this account to set up any number of savings pots within this account, all earning interest. This helps you split your savings out for different goals, such as an emergency fund or holiday.
The switching incentives
*Update 3 October 22 – There’s currently no switching offer from Virgin Money *
Unlike other banks, Virgin Money doesn’t offer cash. Instead it rotates between one or a combination of
Virgin Money is calling this new part of the offer “Brighter Money Bundles” – and it’s available to all Virgin Money Current Account customers – not just new switchers.
The main offer right now seems to be up to £225 off a Virgin Media package. It’s only for new Virgin Media customers and you have to commit to an 18 month contract and pay a £35 set up fee.
I’ve clicked through to see the offers and prices and it does look like prices are slightly lower than going direct to Virgin Media each month, plus there’s between £50 and £100 bill credit on top. It’s worth checking what you can get via a cashback site though for a proper comparison.
There aren’t any other offers listed right now, but it seems they’ll favour Virgin brands such as the gyms, airline and wine.
Fee free spending abroad
Though we can’t really travel right now, this is a really good feature you only see on Starling or Monzo and some credit cards (though Monzo and some credit cards have restrictions on cash withdrawals).
The app positions itself along the lines of the other challenger bank offerings, with savings pots, budgeting features and the ability to tag and track transactions.
You can also deposit a cheque with your phone and it’s compatible with Apple Pay and Google Pay.
But there are plenty of features it doesn’t have, including some of the extras you’ll get with Starling and Monzo such as round-ups, PIN reveal or the ability to freeze your card.
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Should you open a Virgin Money M Plus account?
Let’s start with the good things.
The 2.02% interest is decent as is the linked 1.71% account, especially if you’ve already had the Nationwide FlexDirect account for more than a year. You can’t beat it in an easy access account right now.
If you don’t have a Chase, Starling or Monzo account then it will also be useful for overseas spending.
Both of these make it a decent option, and the switching deal is worth considering. However, if you are going to switch bank I think there are other options you should consider first. In terms of bonuses, I’d go for one which pays cash. You can see the list of the latest ones here.
Then if you’re after a bank to help you budget I’d look at Starling or Monzo.
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As with other bank switches you’ll need to open a new account with Virgin Money and then use its website to detail which bank account from a different bank you are switching over. Virgin Money will carry out a credit check.
You will have to close this old account completely as part of the switch, but all your money and future payments in and out will be transferred over. This is guaranteed as part of the Current Account Switching Service. You can read more about how bank switching works here.
You might think that by dropping Sky, Virgin and other pay TV services you’ll miss out on some of the channels you enjoy. Well, you can actually get most of them elsewhere – and for less money
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Entertainment and film channels
First up, let’s cover the channels you might be watching right now via Sky or Virgin as you’re probably most concerned about these channels – from BBC One through to Sky Atlantic.
NOW Entertainment
This is the main way to get your core Sky channels for less. You get to pick and choose which elements you sign up for. So a monthly entertainment pass will cost £9.99 a month, while the Hayu reality TV pass is £4.99 a month.
I really only the Entertainment pass, but I never pay full price. In fact I’m often able to get passes for a fraction of the price.
Channels on the Entertainment Pass include Sky Max, Sky Atlantic, Sky Crime and Sky Comedy. You can also get UKTV channels such as Gold and all the box sets for those channels.
I’ve written in more detail about NOW TV here, including the ways to get it for less.
Most channels you watch are probably free to air, which means even if you are watching them via Sky or cable they aren’t part of the monthly fee – and you can continue to watch them without paying a penny.
Freeview needs an external aerial and Freesat requires a satellite connection. As long as you’ve got one of these (and the box/TV to receive the signal) you’ll get free access to hundreds of channels including the most popular ones – BBC, ITV and Channel 4 – and favourites such as Dave and The Food Network. Here’s a full list.
You can still record these free channels with the right box. This box is £169.99 at the moment. Spread that cost over three years (though it’ll probably last longer) and it works out at £4.72 a month. I think it’s worth paying this vs sticking with Sky.
If you only have access to TV via the internet then Virgin Media, BT and Sky now (or soon will) offer cheaper devices that let you watch free channels – though you’ll still need broadband with those companies.
iPlayer, All 4, ITVX and My5
There’s an amazing back catalogue of free TV to watch on these services. Really, it’s huge.
Often you can watch programmes that are also on the likes of Netflix and Amazon, except on iPlayer and the others it won’t cost you a thing. You can also watch the channels live and download programmes to your phone for offline viewing.
Discovery+
Discovery+ is an option for some other channels you’d normally get on Sky such as Discovery, Animal Planet and TLC – though the likes of HGTV, Quest and Food Network are also on Freeview. It costs £3.99 a month to get access.
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Sports channels
A big draw for people with Sky and BT is often the ability to watch sport, but you can get access to these channels on a monthly basis – and without the need for a long contract.
NOW Sky Sports
Once more NOW TV is your option to watch Sky’s sports channels, and you can get all the sports ones. The big difference here to the other NOW TV passes is this is live viewing only – there’s no on-demand.
Passes are available for the day (£14.99) and month (£34.99), while there’s also sometimes a mobile phone only option.
Again there are always deals to cut the price you pay, and we’ve got a special page devoted to NOW TV Sports Pass offers.
TNT Sports has a monthly pass at £30.99 a month. This means you don’t need to have any other service with BT or to sign up to a long contract – though you will have to cancel to stop the subscription rolling over to a new month.
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These are the pay subscriptions that give you extra content you can’t get with Sky, Virgin or Freeview – and chances are you’ve already signed up for one or two.
Often these are extra costs on top, so signing up for these might be as well as some of the more direct Virgin and Sky replacements – though personally I’d always suggest you sign up as an alternative, then mix and match, rather than have them as well.
Netflix
There’s a lot of very good original and old TV on Netflix, as well as award-winning movies that appear here just weeks after the first cinema showings. It’s my top pick if you’re only going to get one service as there’s always something to watch.
It starts at £4.99 for the ‘Standard with ads’ option, though the most popular option is £10.99 which gives you HD quality and the ability for two people to watch on different devices at the same time. The top level £17.99 tier upgrades to Ultra HD and allows four simultaneous uses of the account. There are occasionally deals and discounts.
Amazon Prime Video
If you’re a frequent Amazon shopper then there’s a good chance you’ve got this. A full year at £95 which works out slightly cheaper than the standard £8.99 a month price.
If you don’t want the extra Amazon Prime features like free next day delivery you can get a video-only subscription for £5.99 a month. Don’t forget there’s a 30-day free trial for new customers.
There’s still decent exclusive TV and movies here so you’ll likely find something new.
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There’s only new and original TV shows on Apple’s entry to the streaming service. It costs £8.99 a month, though there are often deals to get a few months for free – even if you’ve had the service before. In fact, since it launched, I’ve not paid a penny but had access for almost two years!
Disney+
Disney+ has three tiers to choose from. Standard with ads for £4.99 per month, Standard for £8.99 per month or £89.90 per year and Premium for £12.99 per month or £129.90 per year, though there are ways to pay less.
Big shows include new TV based around Star Wars and Marvel, as well as have a back catalogue of the MCU, Pixar and Disney movies and TV like the Simpsons and The Walking Dead.
The rest
There are so many other streaming services you could go for. I’ve shared the best deals here, but these include:
Britbox
Starzplay
Mubi Paramount+
BFI Player
My TV set up and savings
I haven’t had a TV subscription from the likes of Sky or Virgin since early 2014, but I’ve still been able to watch channels such as Sky Atlantic, Fox and Sky One (more on this below).
My total on NOW TV in the last year has been just £61. That’s about 10 months of entertainment and Boost, two of Cinema and four of sports. I’m not saying you’d be able to get these deals (or that I would again), but these have been some cracking savings.
I don’t have Apple TV+ right now but I’ve got a voucher for four months free which I’ll activate soon, on top of the free five months I had earlier in the year. I also managed to get a year’s free Prime Video and three months free Disney+ via O2. I’m about to cancel the latter and only pick it up occasionally.
My Freeview is via a six-year-old YouView box, which I got for free with a previous broadband contract from BT so I’m not paying anything there.
So this means I’ll likely have spent around £153 this year on a huge range of TV services. That’s just £12.75 a month on average.
Compared to the basic TV Sky package that’s easily half of what I’d be paying, if not much, much more.
Working out which services are for you
Do a channel audit
Before making your choice about the services to pay for you need to do a channel audit.
Think about what you actually watch, and whether you’re actually bothered about those channels. Most people will be fine with Freeview the majority of the time, adding on one or two pay subscriptions to boost viewing options.
The TV Tapas method
Of course, there’s the chance that the more of the premium services you sign up for the less you’ll save vs the price you were paying for Sky.
And consider how much time you actually have for TV viewing. Realistically you won’t be able to fully take advantage of all the services at the same time.
I’d recommend a “tapas style” approach where you pick and mix over the year, rather than gorging all at once on more than you can possibly manage.
For example, you could get Netflix for a couple of months and binge the shows you want to watch there.
Once you’ve exhausted the shows, or fancy a change you can then switch to NOW TV for a month or so.
Then perhaps have a break where you focus on programmes you missed on iPlayer and then back to Netflix. Or any combination!
How to watch without a Sky or Virgin box
Most modern TVs are “smart TVs” and come with apps for many of these online services. But chances are it won’t have them all.
So you’ll need to invest in a relatively cheap streaming stick like an Amazon Fire Stick or Roku which plugs into an empty HDMI socket on your TV and connects wirelessly to the internet. You’ll usually need a power supply too.
Amazon Prime is getting more expensive. It’ll cost an extra £16 if you pay upfront for an annual membership, or £12 more if you pay monthly. Student memberships are also going up in price.
It’s the first increase since 2014, and will mean you’ll pay close to £100 every year to get access to benefits such as free delivery and movie streaming.
It might be possible to beat these increases, depending on how you currently subscribe. I’ve shared how you can do this – and whether there’s an even better way to spend less.
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How much will Amazon Prime cost?
From 15 September 2022 any signups or renewals will be at the new prices. The biggest change will be for the annual subscription, which will go from £79 a year to £95.
If you pay monthly you’ll pay £1 more each month, moving from £7.99 to £8.99. If you pay this way for a year you’ll spend £107.88.
Student prices will increase by slightly larger percentages.. The annual membership changes from £39 to £47.49. while it’s an extra 50p on monthly payments, moving from £3.99 to £3.49
However, it looks like there are no changes to the Amazon Prime Video subscription. This will stay at £5.99 a month.
Membership
Current Price
New Price
Increase
Prime Monthly
£7.99
£8.99
£1 (12.5%)
Prime Annual
£79
£95
£16 (20.25%)
Prime Student Monthly
£3.99
£4.49
50p (12.5%)
Prime Student Annual
£39
£47.49
£8.49 (21.8%)
Prime Video Monthly
£5.99
£5.99
£0
What you get via Amazon Prime
The main benefit people get Prime for is the next day free delivery, but film and TV streaming is another big draw. On top of this is limited free music streaming, a free Kindle book each month and access to extra offers such as the Prime Day sales. Here’s my full review.
Can you beat the Amazon Prime increase?
Not every Amazon Prime member will be able to avoid the new costs, but there are a few different options to either keep it at the same price, or perhaps even pass less over a year.
You definitely want Prime for a year
You currently pay monthly
There’s one very easy way to avoid the increase if you currently pay monthly. Signing up for an annual membership before 15 September will mean you’re locked in at £79 for the next 12 months.
I’d leave this change until as close to the price hike date as possible to ensure you let the £79 pass for as long as you can. It’s easy to do in your Amazon account.
This will save you £28.88 over 12 months versus paying the new £8.99 monthly price.
You currently pay annually
Anyone whose existing annual membership is up before 15 September will automatically renew at the current price
But if your annual subscription ends after this date, you’ll renew at the new full price. So tough luck? Well there might be a trick that could work – but there’s no guarantee.
You could try to cancel just before that date and then see if you can sign up again at £79. However, it’s possible the subscription won’t end on the day you cancel. Instead it could carry on until the initial end date, which might make it hard to sign up again at the lower price. It’s worth a try though.
Bear in mind that it’s unlikely you’ll get a pro-rata refund on unused months, and since the change in price is £16, you’ll only want to consider this option if your membership is due to finish before mid November – otherwise you’ll have effectively have paid the new price anyway.
Though there’s a discount to be had when you pay upfront for a year, it’s only a saving if you use Prime every month. At the existing prices you needed to use Prime 10 months out of the year for the annual membership to be cheaper.
That’s still the case with the new prices when you compare 10 months at £8.99 (£98.89) versus a year upfront (£95). So if you pay for Prime for just nine months of the year (and remember to cancel the months you don’t need it), you’ll pay £89.90 – saving £5.10.
But really you need to compare this new monthly price with the current annual price. Doing this means you’d need to use Amazon nine months of the year for the £79 annual membership to work out cheaper.
Of course, the fewer months you use, the less you’ll pay over a year. And don’t forget you can get a free trial every 12 months, and that can be taken by each adult in the household.
There are also occasional offers to tempt you to sign up again. I’ve seen deals such as 99p for a week and £3.99 for a month quite a few times in the last year.
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If you only want film and TV streaming, then the £5.99 cost for Prime Video is now even better value. Even if you kept this for a year you’d pay £71.88 -£23 less than an annual full Prime membership.
And since it’s monthly you’ve got the choice to cancel when you’re not watching – or more likely when you’re watching another streaming service.
Finally the best way to beat the price hike, is to ditch it completely. You might think this is impossible, but when I went without Amazon for a whole year, I found everything I wanted to buy available elsewhere for the same price or less – even when delivery was factored in.
And if you do need to shop at Amazon, then there’s free delivery on orders over £20. At worst this means waiting until you have a few things to order and doing it in one go, rather than bit by bit.
Plus you can always sign up for the odd month when you know there’s going to be lots to order – perhaps Prime Day and Black Friday sales, or ahead of Christmas and birthdays.
How to cancel or change your Amazon Prime membership
If you decide you don’t want to carry on paying the full price then it’s actually very easy to cancel your membership. It’s the same process if you want to change your type of membership.
On the top right of the screen (desktop), selected the “Account & Lists” dropdown menu.
Go to “Your account”
Then select “Your Prime Membership”
Change your subscription under “Manage Membership”
Choose either to cancel your membership or select “See more plans” to see other options
The smart app and card has made big changes to what you get.
Regular readers will know I’ve quite a few current accounts and a few credit cards – all with different benefits. To carry them all with me would just be impractical.
But Curve has allowed me to add almost every single card to a digital wallet and just carry the single Curve card with me instead.
I’ve been using the Curve card since it launched in 2016, and though not perfect, it’s been a staple in my wallet. But from summer 2022 there are new limits being put in place for free users. So is it still worth it?
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What is Curve?
Curve lets you use more than one bank or credit card through a single “smart” debit card that you manage via an app.
In lots of ways it’s similar to using Apple Pay or Google Pay, with the added benefit of a physical card and some cool features such as changing your payment card after purchase, low or fee-free spending overseas and earning cashback.
However you can only add MasterCard or Visa cards to your Curve account. This rules out others such as American Express or Maestro.
You might also get limited access to some features depending on which Curve card you have.
Types of Curve card
There are four options: Curve, Curve X, Curve Black and Curve Metal. Each has a different cost and access to different features.
Curve is free (previously known as Curve Blue)
Curve X is £4.99 a month
Curve Black costs £9.99 a month
Curve Metal costs £14.99 a month or £150 if you pay upfront for a year
Curve features and limits by card
I’ll explain these features and limits in more detail throughout the review.
From July 2022, there will be new limits on the free card. According to Curve, the changes are due to increasing costs and a shift in focus “towards short term profitability”.
Rather than ditch the free option completely, they’ve reduced what it offers and introduced a mid-tier Curve X card.
The big difference between these two cards and the premium cards will be the number of cards you can add. Until now there have been no limits to the number of cards you can add to your Curve card, regardless of the type you have. So you’d be able to get the free option and benefit from this core feature.
Now the free Curve card will only let you add two cards, while Curve X limits you to five cards. Both Black and Metal remain unlimited.
Curve free will also only allow only three uses of the Back In Time feature each month and one smart rule. Curve X will limit you to five smart rules.
I’ll give my full opinion at the end of the review, but this is a huge change and it means the free option is very, very basic.
One year of Curve X for £1.99 a month
Existing free Curve customers will have the option of a 60% discount on Curve X for a year. You’ll pay £1.99 a month rather than the full £4.99. You’ve 30 days to upgrade from when you are notified, which means this offer will end by late July 2022.
Curve card and app features
All in one connected cards
The big sell for Curve, in my view, is the ability to slim down your wallet but still have a physical card to use. However, in reality it never quite meant I could have just one card on me.
As mentioned, you can’t add American Express cards, so I’ve always got that in addition. Plus I always want to have a non-Amex credit card on me for large purchases over £100 at retailers that don’t take Amex (to ensure I get Section 75 protection).
So I generally carry my Curve, Amex and another credit card at all times. It has allowed me to ditch my business debit card and a couple of other debit cards.
However, the new limits on the free and X tier really reduce the ability to maximise this feature. Having just two cards on the free card feels a bit pointless, and blocking business cards on this tier could be a real issue. The slightly higher limit of five cards on X might be enough for some.
If you can manage with these limits, then great. But I think the more you need to carry extra cards or have to add them to your phone’s digital wallet then the less Curve serves a purpose.
The Go Back In Time feature is a great idea, and one I tend to use a lot. If you forget to change the payment card you want to use in the app before buying, you can switch it to a different one within a 30 to 120 day window (depending on the card).
This has been really useful for me when spending money for my business. Rather than claim it back, I can just swap the expenditure over to my business bank account.
I’ve also used it a lot for spending via Chase Bank in order to earn the 1% cashback. This isn’t my main account, so I don’t always have lots of money in there. Go Back in Time has meant I’d pay from my main current account, then switch the transactions to Chase once I’ve topped it up.
But again, the new limits on this feature make it pretty pointless on the free option as you can use it just three times a month.
The paid cards let you do this unlimited times a month, though there are different windows for how far back you can go. You can also only change a payment once.
Anti-embarrassment mode
If for some reason your selected payment card is declined, then you can activate up to two backup cards in the app which will be automatically charged instead. This is available on all Curve cards.
Smart Rules
This is a new feature that looks to be expanded on soon. You’re able to create rules for spending on specific cards based on factors like the type or size of transaction. I’ve set up cash withdrawals to always come from my main linked debit card.
You get one Smart Rule with the free Curve, moving up to five with X and then unlimited rules with Black and Metal.
Other app and card features
As soon as you use your Curve card to pay you’ll get a notification on the app, which helps you keep track of what you’re spending.
There’s a timeline of all purchases made on Curve, no matter which card you used. Which helps you see all your spending in one place.
You can also lock your card if it’s lost, or check your PIN and card details.
However, Curve is an attractive option as a back up or if you don’t already have or can’t get one of these specialist credit or debit cards.
For a start, there’s no credit check to get it – unlike when applying for a Halifax Clarity or Barclaycard Rewards credit card. You’ll also be able to use your connected main debit or credit card and avoid that bank’s own hefty charges.
However there are limits on spending and withdrawals that reset on a rolling 30-day period. The size of each limit depends on the type of Curve card you have (see table above). If you go above these amounts you’ll get charged a 2% fee.
Plus although Curve is fee-free when using it Monday to Friday, at the weekend a 0.5% charge will be added for Dollars and Euros transactions and 1.5% to other currencies. This is temporarily paused in the summer of 2022, but will return from 1 September.
Curve Flex
Curve Flex is a way to borrow cash on purchases you’ve already made. It’s effectively a restrospective Buy Now, Pay Later scheme – but with interest added on.
You can choose a transaction and then split it into instalments of three, six, nine or 12 months. Those instalments will be taken from a selected card each month to repay the loan.
There’s a soft check on your credit report to see if you can be offered the loan, then a hard check if you proceed.
There’s obviously interest added on top too. Curve says rates begin at 9% though the representative APR is 14.18%. This is probably cheaper than an overdraft or credit card (except 0% cards), but not something that should be used lightly. It’s better to save up for anything you can’t afford.
If you miss a payment because there’s not enough available on the linked account you’ve seven days to pay it (Curve will try this automatically). If you still don’t catch up in this time you’ll be charged £6.
A big attraction with Curve is cashback. There are two ways to earn this, though you won’t get both on all the cards.
Curve Rewards
This is available on all the Curve card and allows you to earn money back on certain purchases. These offers come and go, such as 15% off Disney+ or 5% back at Five Guys. Watch out for restrictions, such as new users only. You need to activate the offer in the app, then pay using your Curve card.
The money you earn will be added to your Curve Cash wallet, which you have to select before spending to use (Back in Time won’t work).
Curve Cash (Metal and Black only)
The premium Curve cards also offer ongoing cashback at 1%, but only on limited retailers that you must select. For Black, it’s three shops, and for Metal, it’s six shops.
Once you’ve chosen them you’ll earn money back each time you use your Curve card there, and once again the money made will be put in your Curve Cash wallet.
This is just a selection. The full Curve Cash list is available on the Curve website, although annoyingly it includes European brands alongside the UK retailers.
Personally I’d pick one of the supermarkets in my three or six. Spend £200 a month on groceries and you’ll earn £24 over a year.
The big rewards come if you’re looking to make a big purchase or two, such as furniture or white goods at the likes of John Lewis, Apple or Ikea.
Then it’s worth thinking about places you shop at often, such as Starbucks. You’ll get less cashback per transaction but it’ll add up over the year. Petrol is a good option too.
Curve cashback and existing bank offers
If you have any retailer-specific offers on your underlying cards they won’t be recognised.
For example, my John Lewis credit card will give 1.25% back off when I shop at Waitrose. But if I used that card via Curve I’d get just 0.25% back.
So only use the Curve rewards if they are better than what you’d get direct with your bank card.
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Curve Insurances
Both Black and Metal come with added insurance as part of the fees. Black has worldwide travel insurance, while Metal also adds car collison waiver and mobile phone cover.
Don’t just assume these are going to provide the cover you need. Check the policy documents and limits.
Using Curve
As mentioned I’ve used Curve since it first launched in beta. On the whole it works really well.
In shops and online
You use the card as you would any normal debit card. I’ve had no problems paying in shops. On my bank statements, transactions appear as CRV followed by the shop name, so for example CRV*SAINSBURYS.
Cash machines
It works getting cash out of my current account via an ATM too. There’s a £200 a day cap.
You can even get cash out using a connected credit card without incurring extra charges (normally you should never get cash out on credit cards). However there is a limit of £200 a month for this.
You won’t be able to use Curve for pre-authorisations, such as pay-at-the-pump petrol or car hire deposits.
There’s a daily spending cap of £2,000, and a rolling monthly cap of £5,000. You can’t spend more than £10,000 a year. These will increase the longer you have your card.
Curve Fronted
You’ll be charged 1.5% if you use an underlying credit card for services which don’t allow this (e.g. paying your tax return or paying off a different credit card bill). This feature is known as Curve Fronted.
The Metal tier of Curve has a £10,000 allowance where this charge isn’t added, though Curve warns this could impact your credit score, depending how your credit card company treats these transactions.
Your consumer protection
Any purchase you make with Curve, even the underlying card is a credit card, isn’t covered by Section 75 of the Consumer Rights Act. These laws basically give you better protection for anything which costs more than £100.
However, Curve has its own customer protection policy, and ultimately all purchases via your Curve card are covered by the Chargeback scheme.
How to get a Curve card and £10 welcome bonus
You simply enter your mobile number on the Curve website and you’ll be sent a link to download the app, or search in your phone’s app store.
Get a free £10 credit (ended 8 July 22)
When you sign up via this link you’ll be eligible for a £10 welcome bonus – double the standard referral offer of £5. There’s no need to enter the promo code as the link has tracking which will register the offer.
Once you’ve signed up you then need to spend at least £5 on the card and do it within seven days of applying. If you don’t want to wait for the card to arrive in the post you can access the details to use it online via the Curve app, or add the card to your digital wallets such as Apple Pay.
To use this £10 reward you need to use the app to select the Curve Rewards option before you pay.
I love the idea of Curve and I’ve been a fan for many years. Sadly the new limits on the free options make it a frustrating product.
I’m not sure what benefits come from having just one card in your wallet rather than two cards, especially when they can’t be an Amex or business card.
I use features like Back in Time because I can, not because I need to. So I’m perfectly happy losing the access to this rather than splash out unnecessary cash. Though ultimately it means I can’t see a use for the free Curve card.
As as I want to use my Amex (for cashback) and non-Amex credit cards (for Section 75), I’ll probably just swap my Curve for my Chase card in my wallet.
It’s still a decent bet as a backup for travel abroad, though I’d encourage you to prioritise a completely fee-free card first.
So perhaps X, Black or Metal are better options?
It’s hard to justify £60 a year for the still limited features on Curve X. The main concern for me is the loss of using a business payment card but I doubt that applies to many of you. And I can just add that card to my Apple Pay instead. So it’s a relucantant no on X.
If you’re going to take full advantage of the cashback with the Black and Metal cards then perhaps you’ll eat into some of the fees – though it won’t be much.
I think Curve Cash is only a decent feature if you can use it in combination with a non-Amex cashback card and earn double cashback rather than instead of. But this extra cashback alone still won’t cover the full £10 or £15 a month.
To justify the charges you’d need to also factor in the travel insurance – as long as you actually need annual cover. If you do use both cashback and the insurance then perhaps £10 a month isn’t too bad.
But taking it a step further for Metal only really works for me if you need the added phone cover and pay £150 upfront. But even then it’s not something I’d personally go for.
From unused Oyster cards to old bank accounts you could have some handy spare cash ready to claim.
I spotted an advert on the tube the other year from Nandos – revealing there were 1.8 million unclaimed rewards sitting on Nando’s cards. That’s a lot of chicken. But I wasn’t that surprised. It’s just another example of forgotten cash and rewards that we really should be using.
So this got me thinking – where else could people forgot they’ve got some money? Here’s a quick list of places to check, and how to make sure that money is going to better use.
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Cashback sites
Regular readers will know I’m an advocate of using cashback sites to earn a little extra. By using Quidco or Topcashback as the first stop before going to most online shops you can receive money back on your purchase. Really easy.
But the cashback does take a while to be paid out. So if you’ve not used your account for a while, it’s worth looking to see if there’s anything ready to cash out.
Bank rewards
There are quite a few current accounts with extra rewards, from £5 a month from Halifax through to cashback on bills from Santander. If these aren’t your main accounts it might be those payments are stacking up, so transfer them through to your main current account or a savings account.
I remember a good few years back I found an old Post Office book that has been set up by my gran. There wasn’t much in it, but it has just been sitting there.
Similarly, a while back Becky had a letter from Virgin Money saying she hadn’t been in touch for a while. Turned out it had been four years and there was £4.41 of interest which had been added after she’d cleared the balance.
So take a look through your records. See if there are any accounts you’ve long forgotten – there could be cash lurking!
With some online retailers, you’ll be refunded in credit which stays on your account, particularly if you’ve paid by gift card or voucher. So log in to Amazon, John Lewis and the rest to see if there’s any money sitting there. You can’t transfer this out to your bank, but you can use it.
Gift cards
Speaking of gift cards, take a look in your wallet, drawer or wherever you keep them. These are so commonly forgotten about that when found they’ve expired and all the money lost. Hopefully it’s not too late for any you have. Here are my rules for making sure you don’t waste your gift cards
Loyalty schemes
If you’re always tapping a loyalty card when you go shopping, log in to see how much you have racked up.
And don’t forget the rest – there could be a free coffee, donougt or chicken sitting at the back of your wallet.
A Nando’s advert on the tube telling us to use our rewards points.
Old phone, TV or energy accounts
When you switch supplier to get a better deal, make sure you aren’t owed any cash. Often with bills like these you pay in advance so could well be due some money back – and the companies won’t automatically send it to you. So chase it up!
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Remember when you needed an Oyster card to get around London? Since we’ve been able to tap and go with Contactless cards on London’s tubes and buses, we’ve had no use for the official payment cards. So these cards have just been sitting there.
I had a quick look a few years ago and both Becky and I had a little bit of cash on our old cards. Just a few quid. A couple of clicks to cancel and apply for a refund then brought a welcome surprise. We were also due an extra £5 back. Each. We’d both forgotten that when we got the Oysters we had to pay this as a deposit.
Prepaid cards
It’s not just Oyster where you could have some balance left over. Have you ever had a prepaid card? Maybe on holiday? Check what the balance is and get that money back. And as with Oyster see if you had to put a deposit down.
How to avoid overpaying for Netflix, Disney and more.
One of the things I love about the likes of Netflix, Disney+ and NOW TV is they are each far cheaper than getting premium channels from Sky or Virgin.
The problem is it’s so easy to sign up for these monthly streaming services. And with yet more new streaming sites launched (hello Paramount+), the more you have, the less of a bargain they actually are.
And with inflation hitting all our other costs too, it makes sense to find as many ways as possible to reduce what you pay.
So if you want to take advantage of these sites but also make a saving, here are the rules I follow to make sure I get the best value from the money I spend on streaming film and TV.
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Binge, cancel and swap
There’s no way you can get the most of every service at the same time. At a push you might be able to justify two, but I think you’ll get the best value from one at a time.
Fortunately, all these services have 30-day or month-long contracts, meaning you can dip in and out whenever you want and only pay for the months you are signed up for.
Focus on the shows you want to watch on that platform, and when you’ve had enough you cancel your monthly payment and move to the next one. And so on.
This obviously requires you to cancel one when you’re done with it, and restart another. But this is very simple with each service, and can be done with a few clicks. You’ll probably want to put a note in your diary to remind yourself to do it.
Streaming Service prices compared
There are so many options, I’ve focussed this table on the main services, then some of the next tier options.
Monthly Cost
Annual Pass
Amazon Prime Video
£5.99 (£7.99 if full Prime)
£79
Apple TV+
£4.99
£49.99
BT Sport
£25
N/A
Discovery+ (Entertainment/Entertainment + Sport)
£3.99 / £6.99
£39.99 / £59.99
Disney+
£7.99
£79.90
Netflix (Basic/Standard/Premium)
£6.99/£10.99/£15.99
N/A
NOW Cinema
£9.99
N/A
NOW Entertainment
£9.99
N/A
NOW Sky Sports
£33.99
N/A
Paramount +
£6.99
£69.90
Arrow
£4.99
£49.99
BFI Player
£4.99
£49.99
Britbox (merging with ITVX in late 2022)
£5.99
£59.99
Mubi
£9.99
£71.88
Shudder
£4.99
£47.88
Starzplay
£5.99
N/A
So how much could you save having just one at a time? Let’s assume you can watch everything you need to in two months a year per main service. So that would be:
two months of Netflix Standard @ £10.99 a month
two months of NOW TV Entertainment @ £9.99 a month
two months of Amazon Prime Video @ £5.99 a month
two months of Disney+ @ £7.99 a month
two months of Apple TV+ @ £4.99 a month
two months of Paramount+ @ £6.99 a month
Paying full price each month would mean you pay £93.88 a year. That’s less than a year of Netflix on its own and you’ve got so much more choice. And if you nab deals, you’ll pay even less.
Avoid annual passes
This is an obvious extension of my first rule, but unless you know 100% that you are going to be watching one service at least 10 months of the year (most annual passes are 12 months for the price of 10), there’s no real saving in buying a discounted annual pass.
Of course, you might feel differently (especially if you’ve kids who are always on Disney+). So if you will watch it consistently then go for it, buy bear mind the cost when adding on extra ad-hoc subscriptions.
Watch out for extras
It’s tempting to upgrade Netflix to 4K quality, but I’d caution against it. Though it can make a difference, I’d argue it’s not worth an extra £5 a month over the HD Standard Netflix.
Likewise, the extra £2 a month to move from Prime Video to full Amazon Prime seems to make sense, but if you do this you will spend more money at Amazon – something I and many others are trying to avoid.
However, when it comes to NOW TV, the £5 Boost option is essential for basic HD and to avoid adverts (though I’ll always use the cancellation trick to hopefully bring this down to £1 or £2 a month).
Look for deals and freebies
Ok, an obvious one, but if you can pay less for a pass, then it’s a great way to save. Special offers are rare (though not impossible) to find on Netflix, but the other services all have promos and discounts, even freebies.
At the time of writing I’m on three months free Disney+, six months free NOW Entertainment, £2 NOW Boost for six months, one year free Prime Video, £1 NOW cinema for a month and I’ve got eight months of free Apple TV+ to activate before late August. That’s too much to watch, but it’s not costing me anything at all really.
These offers come and go, so check out my deal pages for the latest offers when I spot them.
Though not all services offer free trials, a handful do, so make sure you use these. Plus, though you’re only allowed one free trial per person, that doesn’t mean your partner, housemates or (older) kids can’t sign up.
You might even be able to repeat a trial. Amazon let you take a free trial every 12 months, sometimes sooner. If there are two of you in the house, that’s two months free a year – which should be enough to binge most of the content you want to watch.
These are the standard offers. For the links and details, check my deals pages. I’ll also share short-term extended free trials (eg with Apple and Mubi).
You probably do this already! But it’s possible to share your account details with all the main services.
It’s likely we’ll see Netflix clamp down on this (they’ve trialled a few different methods), and once they do, others will follow. So make the most of it while you can!
Be careful not to become the one who pays for all the services. Either get those using your service to contribute their fair share, or get them to pay for a different service and share that with you.
There can be limits on how many times you can do this and how many people can watch at once. And of course, just because you can do it, doesn’t mean you should. I’ve got more details in my article should you share streaming passwords and accounts.
Plan what to watch (and be picky)
With so much available, it’s easy to watch something just because it’s there. Yet so much of what’s available is trash. Really. Take a look behind the main titles and there are movies you won’t even believe were made. So I’m selective(ish). If there’s nothing I NEED to see, I’ll cancel.
And if there’s good word of mouth on programmes while I’m not subscribed, I’ll just add them to my list ready to binge when I next sign up. I’ll also time signing up for when all the episodes are available.
The only flaw in this plan is for shows on NOW as they come and go frequently, so if you miss it the first time around you might have to wait a long time for it to return.
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Check where you can watch it
There are some shows and movies that are exclusive to one platform or another, but many others will move about, or even be found on more than one service.
For example at the time of writing, Icon Films is pushing cult Ryan Gosling movie Drive on it’s front page, but that’s also on Prime Video. Or the US remake of comedy series The Office is on NOW, Netflix and Prime Video!
So before you sign up to watch that specific thing, check if you can watch it for less on another service. I use JustWatch for this.
Watch free catch up
And don’t forget, as long as you pay the licence fee, you’ll still have access to iPlayer along with All 4, ITV Hub and other free streaming services if you are stuck for things to watch.
There’s always a new drama or comedy to watch on the BBC (homemade and imported) along with some decent boxsets. There are new and recent programmes on Channel 4’s All4 along with a great back catalogue (The IT Crowd, Father Ted, Shameless). It’s well worth taking a break from the paid services every now and then to catch up on this classic TV.
If you hate adverts (I really do) you can pay extra to watch C4 and ITV catch up ad-free.
Make sure you’re not wasting food by chucking it away.
Do you throw out food when it reaches the date on the pack? Well, you could be chucking out perfectly good enough produce – and wasting money as a result.
In fact, there are a few kinds of expiry dates on food, and it’s not always clear what they mean. How do you know when it’s safe to keep eating? Well, here’s a quick round-up.
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What’s the difference between best-before, use-by and sell-by dates?
Use by dates
As it suggests, the advice is to actually use the food by the date listed. So, often this is mainly fresh meat or fish, milk, fruit and veg.
It doesn’t mean you can’t eat stuff after the use-by date, but there’s a risk you could get food poisoning – so it’s often best to stick to the date.
I’ve had a look online to see if there are any general rules for telling if something is still ok to eat – but the advice is mixed.
Apparently, some manufacturers factor in a day or two extra as a precaution, while some people swear by the sniff test. However, the only guarantee, as long as the food has been stored properly, is to consume it by the use-by date.
Best-before dates
Anything with a best before date is safe to consume after expiry. However, the manufacturer will only guarantee the quality until the date.
So you shouldn’t get ill if a pack of crisps or tin of beans if out of date. It might not taste great, but there’s every chance it’ll be just fine – especially if it’s only a few weeks past. Some stuff is absolutely fine months later.
Sell-by / Display until dates
The sell-by date is really an indicator for shop staff rather than customers. It doesn’t actually mean anything for the quality or safety of the food. There’s actually been a huge drop in how often we see these as research found they understandably confused shoppers.
How I beat use-by and best-before dates and save money
Chucking out-of-date food away is essentially throwing money in the bin. Here’s how I avoid it. I know some might seem obvious, but I’ve added in some details you might not be aware of for each.
Freeze it
Ignore packaging that says “freeze on day of purchase”. You can freeze anything up until the use-by date as long as you’ve not already opened it.
When you defrost it you should then cook the produce within 24 hours.
I’ll sometimes break up a pack of meat into smaller freezer bags for an individual portion. This means I can get one chicken breast out if I’m cooking for myself, or more depending on how many I need.
You can of course also freeze leftovers, while batch cooking is a great way to use up everything.
Eat it
Right, obvious. But if you keep an eye on use-by dates and plan your meals around those items you won’t be chucking out foods you could have eaten.
Once you’ve cooked meat you’ll also be able to store it for a couple of days until the fridge, even if you cook it on the use-by date.
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Buy cheap out of date food
You rarely see supermarkets sell items past their best before date, but smaller shops and markets will often have cut-price grub that’s just gone out of date.
There are also online retailers such as Approved Food and Yankee Bundles. They sell a huge variety of products for pretty low prices, including big brands. They also sell a lot of stuff that’s seasonally out of date – so post-Christmas, Easter and Halloween there’s an influx of cheap but perfectly good choc and sweets!
It’s well worth taking a look, but don’t get too carried away by the bargain basement prices – you’ll still need to eat or drink the stuff!
Know what you’ve got
If you’re heading to the supermarket, it really does help to make a list of what you actually need, rather than what you think you need.
A quick cheat here is to take a photo of your fridge or cupboards so you can see what’s there.
Be flexible with your meals
A common food tip is to meal plan – it is probably the best way to make sure you use up ingredients.
But I also try to be flexible with what I’ll have for dinner – and this allows me to take advantage of cut-price food that’s about to go out of date.
You see I’m a little addicted to reduced stickers, as I wrote about a few years ago, so I’ll often decide on meals based on what I can pick up on the day, then freeze anything I can’t use that night.
Buy smaller portions
Those big packs might appear to be cheaper, but not if you have to throw half of the contents in the bin.
If you only use some items occasionally, especially store cupboard essentials, it might be better to buy smaller packs – even if they cost more per 100g. In the long run, you’ll save money.
Avoid bulk buying
This is one area I occasionally fall victim to. If I see a really good deal I sometimes buy two or three – usually on condiments (I’m a little sauce obsessed). Mostly it’s fine, but every now and again I get caught out and find I’ve not used them by the best before date.
Obviously, I now know they’ll be okay to keep eating after the best before date (as long as they aren’t open), but even so I do limit how much of the same thing I buy.
I love my freezer for one simple reason. It saves me money. Lots of money. It’s probably the biggest money saver in my kitchen – even when you factor in the upfront cost, running cost and even buying things like freezer bags.
So here’s why you should be thinking more about what you put in your freezer, and some tricks that’ll not just save you cash but make your life a little easier too.
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Five ways a freezer can save you money
You can snap up reduced food and special offers
I rarely buy any fresh food at full price. Instead I take advantage of the reduced shelves or special offers to stock up and store in my freezer. This is a big money saver. Say between the two of us we’re using four packs of fish or meat each week. If I’m saving on average £10 a week on those purchases, that’s easily £500 saved over 12 months.
I think this is a pretty conservative estimate. And that’s just fish and meat. Add in bread, veg, leftovers, cakes… you can probably freeze the bulk of the food you buy. So make sure you’re not just filling it with ready meals!
You can find lower prices
There are some things you can get cheaper already frozen. Things like frozen berries or fillets of fish. They might also ultimately be fresher as they are frozen at the source. Here’s an interesting article about what to look for with frozen fish.
You’ll cut down on food waste
The average UK household throws away £1,000 worth of edible food every year. Not all of this can be saved by using your freezer, but a huge chunk of it can. So whether that’s freezing leftovers after cooking or fresh ingredients before they go off, it’s a decent amount of money back in your pocket.
You’ll have emergency supplies
Though some people took stockpiling too far in the early days of the Coronavirus pandemic, it does make sense to have some emergency supplies at home – and the freezer is a perfect way to have certain food available if you can’t get to the shops.
And we’ve all had times when we’re short of a vital ingredient, which often then results in a trip to an expensive corner shop or giving up and getting a takeaway. Which costs more money. To avoid this you can freeze things like portions of cheese, herbs, wine, butter, milk… ready to throw into your pot.
I always like to have some food that can be cooked from frozen – and if you’ve bought that on offer or reduced even better.
You can protect yourself against price increases
If you’re worried about inflation pushing prices up even higher than they are now, then stocking up essentials in the freezer is a way to avoid paying more.
Freezing food is pretty simple, but here are a handful of simple rules so you’re not wasting cash.
What foods you can freeze
It turns out you can freeze most things, I’ve listed a few exceptions further down the page. But I’ve shared some of the more unexpected that even the waste-conscious of you might not be aware of.
Leftovers – I’m putting this at the top as I’m always surprised how many people throw out portions of perfectly good grub if they’ve cooked too much. So if you’re not going to eat it for another meal, there’s a good chance you can freeze it – as long as it hasn’t been cooked from frozen in the first place.
Hard cheeses – The advice is to grate it before freezing, or at least chop into small chunks. This not only helps avoid a change to the texture but also makes it easier to use in dishes or throwing on the top of meals.
Butter and margarine – A good one if you find a haul that’s been reduced. It’s best to put any blocks in a freezer bag. Salted butter will last longer than unsalted.
Milk – Semi-skimmed and skimmed milk apparently are best for freezing. It helps to take a little out of the bottle so there’s room for the milk to expand. I’ve also read you need to leave it to thaw for two or three days, and then it’s best to use for cooking rather than drinking. So practically I think you’re probably better off buying it fresh.
Eggs – It doesn’t happen too often but I find recipes which require a yolk or a white but not both really frustrating. The unused part normally ends up in the bin. But according to this website, you can freeze both yolks or whites – perfect for the next recipe that requires one or the other. You can also freeze beaten eggs.
Cakes – I don’t know why this wasn’t obvious, but I only started freezing leftover or reduced portions of cakes five or six years ago. Some types of frosting/topping might not freeze well though.
Pizza – If you’ve made your own pizzas, you’ll know they’re so much better than frozen ones. But the latter can be really convenient. Well, you can get the best of both. Whether you’re using a ready-made base or one of your own, prepare it as usual, top it, then cover it in clingfilm before freezing. AND you can cook it straight out of the freezer.
Pasta – I’ve read a few mixed things here so it might be one to try next time you have leftovers. But in theory, though the texture won’t be as good as when you first cooked it, it’s fine to bag up a portion of pasta and sauce. If you know you’re going to freeze some, then it’s better to remove some from the pan when it’s al dente.
Vegetables – It helps to parboil veg then immediately put them in ice water before freezing. You can then boil or roast them straight from the freezer.
Herbs – Whenever we get fresh herbs from the supermarket there are always too many, so we freeze the leftovers. These tend to be fine for cooking with later, though you wouldn’t want to use them for salads. We tend to put the packs in an airtight container, but I’ve read that you can also chop the herbs up and put them in a little water in an ice cube tray.
Garlic – Just put the cloves in a freezer bag. It obviously helps to separate them first.
Bananas – Ever since the TV show Arrested Development featured the frozen banana stand, I’ve experimented with freezing my own. My number one tip is to take the skin off! You can blend frozen ones into a nice dessert, not too dissimilar to ice cream or you can chop them and dip in chocolate before freezing for bite-size snacks.
Grapes, lemons and limes – Put a frozen grape or slice of lime (chop it before freezing) in a glass and you’ve got a great alternative to ice.
Wine – If you’ve got a bit of a bottle left, rather than chuck it out, you can freeze it. Then it’s there to use for cooking when you need it. Ice cube trays are a good way to portion out what you have left.
What you can’t freeze
These are the most common items I found which people advise you not to freeze. Though, with the exception of whole eggs you can potentially cook with most of the items.
Salad – Avoid high water content fruit and veg like tomatoes, cucumber and lettuce.
Eggs – Raw or hardboiled eggs are a no-no unless you take them out of the shell.
Yogurts and creams – On the whole, the advice is you can’t freeze things like this as they’ll split. So this includes cream and cream based sauce, soft cheeses such as cottage cheese or cream cheese, yogurts, sour cream, and mayonnaise. However I did read a few sites which said you could freeze the odd exception, such as full-fat cream cheese.
Soft cheese – These too won’t survive the freezing process in a way that makes them edible.
Cooked rice – Apparently just not very nice at all.
Fried food – You’ll lose the crisp and crunch of fried food when freezing it, so it’s probably not worth it!
Meringue and egg white based frosting – Best to avoid.
Galatine based – Jelly won’t freeze! So along with cream and custard, it means you really do have to eat all of the trifle.
Defrosted meat – You know this one right? If you’ve frozen raw meat or fish, and defrosted it, you can only freeze it again if you’ve then cooked it.
When to freeze food
Anything that’s fresh should go in the freezer before the use-by date (you can read more on the different dates on packs here). Of course, if it’s looking or smelling a bit dodgy then it’s best to bin it.
If you’re freezing leftovers or are pre-cooking meals to freeze make sure it’s cooled down first.
If you can, put it in the coldest draw so it freezes faster. If you’re adding a huge haul then put the freezer on fast-freeze (just remember to switch it back to no
How long to freeze food for
The guidance seems to be to read the packaging and go with the advice there. If there’s nothing on the pack then it’s best to search online. I wanted to share a simple list but the three most comprehensive ones I found all contradicted each other! Even so, if something’s been lurking in there for around nine months to a year, it’s best to eat it or bin it.
Make sure you rotate the contents of your freezer, especially if you have a large chest freezer, so you’re using the oldest stuff first. A list helps too. I keep in on the notes app on my phone and update it when I shop or use something.
How to defrost frozen food
Meat and fish should be defrosted in the fridge, ideally overnight, though I’ve seen some articles say it’s ok to use the defrost function on a microwave. Either way, make sure you put it on a plate and covered to prevent cross-contamination and check it’s fully defrosted before cooking.
You can also cook lots of items straight from frozen, including some I didn’t realise like sausages. You can even make your own pizzas to freeze. Just top the bases as normal and cover in clingfilm. Then whack it straight in the oven when you want it.
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Freezing hacks
Now you know the rules, it’s time to use some of these tricks. They’ll save space so you can store more and help you avoid further waste.
Take food out of packets
The more reduced food and leftovers you can get in your freezer the more money you’ll save. But if you overstuff your freezer it can force the motor to work harder – increasing the chances of it breaking down.
So it makes sense to utilise the space as best you can, and one of the best ways is to cut down unnecessary packaging. Though some supermarkets are getting better at reducing the size of plastic trays or removing them completely, not all are. So move your mince and anything else that could take up less space.
Make sure you put it in airtight containers or bags to avoid freezer burn. If you’re using bags, squeeze out as much air as you can, and seal with a twist-tie.
Separate before freezing
This is a good trick to ensure you’re taking out only what you need, not the full pack.
Take fruit for example. Freeze a pack and it’s one giant mass of berries. Instead put them on a baking tray on some baking paper in the draw to freeze. The berries will all freeze separately so when you combine them into a bag the won’t join together.
You can do something similar for things like raw chicken breasts. Wrap them individually in clingfilm and put into a bigger freezer bag. For cooked items, like slices of ham, you can put pieces of baking paper in between.
When you freeze leftovers, try to keep it as square as possible to help stack them in the freezer. I’m going to start putting things like a bag of chili into a square box. Once it’s frozen I should be able to take the bag out of the box, which I can use again for the next portion.
Label it
This is really important. Of course you want to know what’s in the pack, but don’t forget quantities, the date it’s frozen and cooking instructions. You can write this on with a sharpie marker pen, or tear off the label from the packaging.
Pre-prepare
You can also make your life easier, and use up random leftovers, by chopping them up ready to use. This is good for things like herbs and onion – just make the latter is sealed tight to stop the smell. Cheese can be frozen grated too so you can sprinkle it onto hot dishes straight from the draw.
You can also save time by increasing how much you cook when you prepare a meal. So last night rather than making chili with one pack of mince, I made it with two (bought on special offer). This means I’ve got a few extra portions to throw in the freezer. And later this week I’m going to poach some (reduced) chicken breasts and shred them before freezing, great for quick tacos at a later date.
What you’ll really pay if you get your groceries delivered from a takeaway service.
During the lockdowns it was understandable that grocery home delivery services rocketed in popularity. Now it’s never been easier to get takeaways or your supermarket shopping delivered to your front door – including getting those groceries collected and dropped off by Deliveroo and Uber Eats.
You can order supplies and get them within a few hours, if not less. It’s certainly convenient. But as with using these apps and websites for takeaways, I wanted to find out if you’ll actually be overpaying.
So I’ve compared prices from the apps vs going direct to the supermarkets, plus looked at any extra charges. Here’s what you need to know before ordering.
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Which delivery apps offer grocery delivery
You’ll find the major supermarkets as well as some convenience stores on either Uber Eats or Deliveroo. Just Eat is moving into the space too, with a handful of Asda stores on board and smaller convenience stores.
There are similar services such as Getir, Gorillas and Beelivery too. These often have their own warehouses rather than working with traditional retailers. I’m not covering here as the reach is still limited around the country – though I plan to look at these in the future.
Which supermarkets are on Uber Eats and Deliveroo?
The apps have partnerships with Asda, Co-op, Iceland, Morrisons, Sainsbury’s and Waitrose, as well as smaller shops like McColls, One-Stop and even some petrol stations.
Of course you need the supermarket to be in your delivery area to appear on the app. Where I live there’s no Iceland for example, so I had to play around with postcodes around the country to get a fuller list. And even if you have a store near you, they might not partner with the apps in your area.
I couldn’t find any Tesco stores. Aldi stopped offering this at the start of the year while M&S Food ended in 2020.
Not all supermarkets are available on both apps. These are the main supermarkets and stores I found across each app.
Supermarket
Delivery App
Asda
Uber Eats
Co-op
Deliveroo
Iceland
Uber Eats
Majestic
Deliveroo
Morrisons
Deliveroo / Uber Eats
Sainsbury’s
Uber Eats / Uber Eats
Waitrose
Deliveroo
Ordering & delivery
Using these apps is completely separate to the supermarket’s own delivery service, so you don’t need an account with the supermarket itself.
You will need to download the Deliveroo or Uber Eats app, or access it via a web browser. You then need to sign up if you haven’t already.
Making an order is exactly the same as with a takeaway. If you have a participating supermarket near you it’ll appear on the app.
Add the items you want to your basket and pay. Then wait for them to arrive at your door.
Charges and extra fees
On Deliveroo most of the supermarkets say it’s free delivery, but on Uber Eats all added a fee of around £2. Some charged a different rate depending on how close you were to the supermarket, others charged a flat fee.
There’s also a minimum order cost, though that is usually around £15 – less than if you went direct via a supermarket’s own webpage. If you don’t meet this threshold you’ll be charged an additional fee, often around £3.
You’ll also find most add an extra service charge. For Uber Eats it’s 10% of the order. On Deliveroo it was generally 5%, though with a minimum of 49p and cap of £2
And on top of this you might be charged for carrier bags at 10p per bag, though one dummy order I set up added 40p despite having just four items. There’s also the option to provide a driver tip.
It’s possible to request a specific time slot or just as for it as soon as possible. You’ll get an indication of when the delivery will be made and you can track progress. In my experience of using both for takeaways there’s always a good chance it’ll be late! You might be charged more for this or a priority order.
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The first thing I noticed was that you can’t order anything you want. There are dozens rather than thousands of products available.
This means it’s impossible to do a full shop this way. And even if you only need a few things you’ll likley have to compromise or go without.
Prices are higher
This is the real kicker. I checked for each supermarket and the prices were all noticeably higher. Here’s a small selection of random products at each supermarket/app.
Supermarket
Product
Direct
Deliveroo/Uber Eats
Mark up
Asda
Cadbury’s Giant Buttons
£1.25
£1.50
20%
Iceland
10 rashers of bacon
£2
£2.75
37.5%
Morrisons
Cathedral City extra mature cheddar (350g)
£3.50 (on offer at £2.75)
£3.70
6% (34%)
Sainsbury’s
Febreze Classic Spray
£3 (on offer at £2)
£3.30
10% (65%)
Waitrose
Sourdough prawn pizza
£5.75 (on offer at £3.83)
£6.75
17% (76%)
correct as of 6 April 2022
All the items I checked cost more on the app than buying direct from the supermarket – and that’s beore those extra service charges.
You miss out on special offers
The prices you see aren’t just higher – they don’t take into account special offers at the supermarket. This means you’re not just paying the premium added on top, you’re missing out on further savings.
A good example here was the pizza from Waitrose. Normally it’d be 17% cheaper in store (£1 less), but the price right now is cut to £3.83, meaning ordering via Deliveroo would 76% more (£2.92 extra).
You also won’t get reduced products – one of my favourite ways to save at the supermarket.
You can’t collect loyalty points
A small point, but you won’t be able to use any loyalty schemes. So you can’t collect your Nectar points or use your MyWaitrose card to nab extra discounts and so on.
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Extra discounts
I’m often getting emails or notifications from both apps saying I can get 50% off my groceries order or £10 off, so it’s worth looking for these.
However, don’t think this will make your basket cheaper! Since items are already more expensive and there are extra charges on top, you might find you’re only saving a few quid if anything at all. Plus the reduced range means you might be struggling to meet a £40 minimum order of things you actually need. Don’t be tempted to order things you don’t want or need just to reach a discount threshold.
If you’ve not used either before then these welcome deals will give you an extra saving on any order (including takeaways).
Free £10 on your first Uber Eats order with code eats-5ngkw (min spend £15 before delivery)
