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November 13, 2024   |   Articles

How to check price history

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Not all discounts, special offers and sale prices are as good as they seem 

Worried you’re being misled by deals into thinking you’re getting a bargain? Here are few tools I use to make sure I’m getting a good price.

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

price history tool

Are you actually getting a good deal?

Something I hate as a bargain hunter is a fake deal. I see them all the time. I don’t mean fake as in the shop doesn’t exist, or the product advertised isn’t available. No, this is when a retailer tells you there’s a huge discount when that’s not quite the truth.

The headline says it’s 50% off. Or save £100. Maybe just a tenner. But look a little closer and the savings aren’t as they seem.

In reality, the price these misleading discounts are based on is original RRP (recommended retail price). And this is usually far higher than what the item has actually been selling for.

But it’s not as simple as saying these promotions are lies – there will be legitimate deals advertised in this way. Or the saving might still be decent, just perhaps not as big as the promo says.

Now an easy way to check if a discount seems reasonable is to compare the price at a few different shops. This is always worth doing, and you could save some cash. If you can afford it and feel it represents good value then that’s a win.

But it doesn’t necessarily mean you’re getting the best price. For that you need to take a look at price history.

Why price history matters

To know if the current price is a good price, you need to know how much it was sold for. Last week, last month, maybe even last year.

This gives you all the information you need to not just make a call about whether the discount shown is accurate, but also how it compares to the lowest recent selling price.

Is the RRP a fair reflection of the real selling price? Or is the sale price, even with the discount, pretty much the average selling price?

And you can use price history for items which aren’t on offer too. Is it on sale for a lower price than it has been for a while? Or is it worth holding back and hoping the price dips back down to the cost it was not too long ago?

Bad deals masquerading as good deals

Here’s an example. A while back Boots was selling a top end Oral B toothbrush at half price. So you could pick it up for £150 rather than the staggering RRP of £300. A big discount on a big purchase.

But if you shopped around and looked at the real selling price, it became clear that this toothbrush is rarely sold at full price. In fact its usual selling price was actually around £150! So this isn’t a sale at all. It’s just how much it costs. In fact, it was possible earlier that year to buy it for £120 – at Boots!

So while if you did buy this toothbrush from Boots or elsewhere at £150 you aren’t necessarily overpaying, you certainly aren’t getting 50% off.

This trickery also applies to other promotion formats, such as a multibuy offer. It’s common to find that prices are higher during the promotion than they were a few days prior when they were in a different special offer.

Recently some posh pies in my local Waitrose cost £3.50 each, but you could get two for £6.50. So £3.25 a pie. But last month they were £3 each on a different offer!

Using price history tools

Thankfully checking these old prices is really easy for most retailers thanks to a series of websites that track the pricing data.

I love the price history feature. It lets me get geeky with my bargain hunting – but it’s also a quick and easy option for a casual check.

When you search for a product you’ll see a graph showing the ups and downs of the prices. With the best sites you can also expand a table to see just how much different retailers have been selling it for over time.

And they’ll usually let you see the price history for as far as a year, if not more.

The best price history trackers

There are three sites I tend to use when investigating the real price history.

Camel Camel Camel for Amazon price history

This tool is only for Amazon, but whether you’re buying something on Amazon or not, Camel Camel Camel is a really useful indicator of a broader price history as other retailers tend to follow Amazon.

This means in most cases, even if the current price at Amazon isn’t the best price, there’s a good chance you’ll get a sense of how much you should be paying.

camel camel camel Amazon price history graph

A quick short cut for Camel Camel Camel is to use the product code rather than typing in the product name. Doing this ensures you’re getting the exact product you’re after. You can find the code in the URL or in the product description.

Try Camel Camel Camel

PriceSpy for price history at other shops

For most other shops I use PriceSpy. Though it’s not my favourite comparison site, it does have the best price history function.

PriceSpy price history table

PriceSpy has a really good option where you can see the individual price changes at different shops. Click on the price history graph in the top corner of a product page and it’ll open up to show a bigger graph and a table with all the different retailers selling the item. Then click the arrow to expand and you’ll see all the price changes. 

Try Price Spy

Trolley for supermarket price history

You can even see how much an item has been selling for at the supermarket using Trolley. It’s a bit limited as you’ll only see the lowest price across all retailers rather than one by one, which can be skewed if one retailer always sells an item for less.

Still, it’s handy as a quick way to check if that bottle of wine that feels like it’s always on sale, really is. You’ll need to click the graph option to see the ups and downs.

Sign up for Trolley

What to watch out for

As much as I love these tools, they aren’t perfect. With PriceSpy the graphs present the lowest selling price over the time displayed. That’s handy but you don’t know for sure where this was – or if it’s a legitimate seller. 

You can also only generally see the prices at places that currently sell the item. This makes it harder to get an idea of a real price for older and clearance items.

It can be tough too to compare prices and price history when retailers have exclusive models. I’m also wary slightly with PriceSpy that it might not show when items are out of stock. I’ve spotted occasions where a very low Black Friday price has been shown for a long period of time but the item was not actually available. This is pretty rare though.

And of course, these prices listed are the selling prices and often don’t take into account extras like discount codes or special member sales such as Prime Day – so it could be that the lowest price shown isn’t actually the lowest ever price.

Even with these slight negatives, I think using these tools is key to making sure you’re getting the best price possible – and not get caught out by fake deals.

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August 11, 2024   |   Articles

How to switch bank accounts

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You can be hundreds of pounds better off by switching your current account.

The team and I often write about the benefits of switching your current account – but I know from chatting with friends that lots of people don’t know how to go about it.

Luckily I’ve switched 21 times so I’ve got a good idea of what to expect. So here’s a simple explanation of what it is, and a step-by-step guide to doing it.

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

Watch Andy’s video on how to switch your bank account

Why switch banks?

You can get all sorts of bonuses from moving your banking. I’ve done it mainly for free cash in my current account but I’ve also switched four times for fee-free banking in my business account.

You might also choose to switch so you can benefit from things like cheaper overdrafts, access to a local branch, cashback on bills or fee-free spending overseas. Or you might just be fed up with the service provided by your existing bank.

I’ve got a regularly updated guide to some of the best offers available from each bank, which is a good starting point. Though it’s important to remember you don’t necessarily have to switch. It might be better for you to open up additional accounts.

Latest bank switch offers (A-Z)

As of 03/04/25

Click the links for further details and analysis

What is bank switching?

When you switch bank you’re essentially moving over all your money and payments (both in and out) from your existing current account over to a new account at a different bank. The bank will let everyone know the new details – from your employer (for salary) to gas company (for bills).

This is only for current accounts – you don’t switch savings accounts or ISAs – though it works for both personal and small business accounts. Joint accounts can only be switched with the permission of both account holders.

Types of bank switching

Most UK banks offer switching. There are two ways to switch – the full switch and the partial switch.

A full switch will move everything over and close your old account. You often need to run a full switch in order to get incentives such as free cash.

A partial switch lets you choose which payments and money to move over. It won’t close your old account unless you chose to. This is handy if you’re opening a cashback current account to earn money on your bills and there aren’t any additional switching benefits.

The switch guarantee

If you opt for the full switch with a participating bank (the vast majority of high street banks are signed up) then you’ll be protected by the Current Account Switching Guarantee. With this, all switches will happen in seven working days, though you can make it later.

The guarantee also means that you’ll be compensated if there are any problems that leave you out of pocket. 

The bank will also monitor payments into and out of your old account for 36 months after the last payment. So you could have a gap of 35 months with no money going in or out of your old account, but one payment in that 36th month will start another 36 months of monitoring.

What happens to your old account?

If you’ve gone for the full switch, your old account will be closed. That means you won’t be able to use online banking, get old statements or use your debit card. You don’t need to do anything yourself – the new bank deals with it all for you. 

It makes sense to download any bank statements from your old account before you close it, and it’s a great opportunity to audit those direct debits and standing orders. This way you can make sure you don’t keep paying for services you don’t need or use.

You also need to watch out for any other products, such as savings accounts, credit cards and mortgages you hold with the old bank. Though in most cases it won’t be a problem, some are exclusive to current account holders. So if you switch away and close that account, it could mean you lose those other products, have to pay a fee, or get a worse rate.

What won’t switch

Only regular payments made with your account details will be switched and continue. Any payments set up with a debit card number, such as a regular payment for a subscription such as Netflix, won’t. So you’ll need to pay for those again with your new debit card details.

My switching experience

As mentioned, I’ve switched a lot! Since 2013, when the switching guarantee came into force, there have been 21 different personal current account switches, all to earn some free cash.

In total I’ve made £2,840 so far, and that doesn’t include the extra money made from monthly rewards, cashback and interest on savings.

The vast majority of the time everything has been smooth sailing, though on a handful of times I’ve had to push the bank for the bonus. But the switches themselves have been perfect, with everything moved over.

How to switch banks

The start of this process shouldn’t take you too long. Say ten minutes of research and ten minutes to apply. Well worth it when you consider how much better off you could be as a result.

Not every bank will have the application process, so just bear that in mind when you get to that stage.

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Find your new account

Whether it’s to get free cash or just a better banking experience, check all the options available to you. We’ve got a guide to switching incentives such as free cash, high interest and cashback on bills.

If you want the switching service protection, look for the Current Account Switch Guarantee logo. A full list of those participating can be found on the CASS website.

The best bank switch bonuses

Check out my list of all the offers you can get when opening a new current account

the best bank switch offers on a blue background

Make sure you meet the criteria

Alongside terms and conditions for the new current account you open (check these before applying), there could also be some eligibility criteria for the switching offer. These can vary by promotion, but these are the most common:

Some account switching promotions require you have a couple of active direct debits, which generally means they’ve paid out in the last year though might need to be in the last month. If these aren’t in place you might need to set new ones up. You might also not be eligible if you’ve previously held an account with the bank. 

Other accounts require a minimum payment into the account every month. This money doesn’t need to stay there, so you can transfer it into another account straight away if you want. You can also usually pay this money in stages. So say £1,500 is required, this could be three £500 payments in the month. It could even be the same £500!

Apply for the account

You’ll need to fill in the application form, which will likely ask for details about salary and expenses. You can do this online, over the phone or in a bank branch. Some of these are easier than others. 

You’ll need to provide proof of ID, and you’ll also be credit checked for most current accounts.

Choose the date you want to switch

You can choose a day to switch to happen. This is good if you want to avoid it happening until after you’d been paid. The earliest this can be is seven working days from when your application is accepted.

Sometimes you can start the switch during the online application process. At other times you have to wait until you have been fully accepted, which might require you to go into a branch with identification documents.

Check you get the reward and everything has moved

I’ve switched many, many times but twice I’ve not had the bonus paid in and once one of my direct debits was cancelled rather than transferred. Both were easily resolved, but just keep an eye on your new account to make sure everything is as it should be.

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October 16, 2020   |   Articles

How to sell your old phone and make some money

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Selling or recycling your old iPhone or Samsung could get you hundreds of pounds! Here’s everything you need to know to sell your old phone.

I used to upgrade my handset every time my contract ended, which meant I’d get a new phone every two years.

But for the last seven years or so I’ve separated my phone from my minutes, texts and data. Through buying the handset outright, I’m saving a huge amount on my monthly payments. And since I’m not tied into a 24-month contract, I can change my handset whenever I want.

And when I do that, I always make sure I sell my old phone to subsidise the cost of a new handset.

Here a few things to consider and then my tips for selling yours.

When to sell your old phone

Obviously if you have old phones sitting in drawers you should sell them ASAP. The other time to sell is when you upgrade. But when should you do that?

The first year I went SIM-only I only kept the phone (an iPhone 5c) for just one year before getting the latest model, but I actually kept hold of the next one (an iPhone 6) for three years.

I then kept my iPhone 7 Plus for two years, and I had planned to keep it longer but I was able to pick up an 11 at a ridiculously low price. I’ve had that handset for 12 months now, and I’ll be sticking with it for a while as it’s working perfectly well.

Of course, I’ve been tempted every year by the new handsets, especially now the new iPhones are 5G enabled. The decision to keep ditch or stick is always down to a few factors, such as how well my current phone is performing, what new features could be useful and the impact on the environment.

But price is the main consideration. The newest handsets aren’t cheap! However, I always factor into the cost of a new phone is the reselling price of my current handset. If I can get a decent chunk of cash I know I can use it to subsidise the new phone.

You’ll be able to sell most old phones for something, but the more recent the phone, the more money you can make on it. Every time a new handset is released, the previous models depreciate.

Should you sell before the handset depreciates?

There’s an argument that upgrading every year and selling for the highest possible price is the most economical. But, even factoring that in, you’ll still pay less for your phone the longer you have it.

it helps to break down the cost you paid minus the amount you’ll hopefully get for the phone. Then divide that by the amount of time you’ve had it.

I’ll use rough iPhone prices here, based on resale prices of previous models at the time of writing. So let’s say I paid £850 for a new iPhone and sell it two years later for £300. The cost will effectively be £550 over two years, not £850. That works out as £23 a month.

Add in a £10 SIM card and over those two years, I’ll be paying roughly £32 a month. Far less than buying it via a contract over the same time. For example you’d look at £61 a month from EE for the new iPhone 12 and 10GB of data.

But even though a handset price drops, you’ll probably still win by keeping the phone for another year or two.

Let’s say it’s resale price drops by another £100 after three years. That’s a real cost of £650 for the phone over 36 months, or £18 a month. That’s £60 less each year, or £180 over three.

Of course the longer you have a phone the more the resell price drops and the amount you’ll get also depends on the phone you have. Some won’t hold their value as well as iPhones.

Watch Andy’s video on How to sell your old phone (examples are from 2019)

What to do before you sell

Get your handset unlocked

If you’ve bought your phone through a mobile network, it’s probably locked so that it can only be used with it. Unlock it so it can be used on any network and you’ll probably get a better price.

Some phones might be locked for a year, but it’s actually pretty easy to do. You can find more information on unlocking different handsets at Giffgaff’s Unlockapedia.

To check the unlocking has worked you can buy a £1 sim card from most pound shops, or just ask a mate if you can briefly put their SIM in your phone.

Look after your phone

I always keep my phone in a case. That means I’ve no chips or scratches, no broken screen. And that means I can sell it for a far higher price. It might be too late now, but think about it for your next phone.

Find your accessories

If you kept the box, cables and headphones they can add to the value. I never use the boxed earbuds so they’re pristine to sell-on.

Wipe all your data

Most importantly make sure you’ve formatted your phone completely and removed the SIM. Back up your phone before doing this incase something goes wrong, or if you can use it to set up your replacement phone.

Ways to sell your phone

Here’s what you need to know to get the most money recycling and selling your mobile.

eBay is usually best

It’s more hassle and you’ve got to figure out fees and packaging costs, but do it right and you’ll normally get the most money for your old phone through eBay.

Research what other handsets have gone for recently (choose completed listings in the filters) and see how your phone’s condition compares. Make sure you charge for postage that is insured as it’s an expensive thing to lose!

I went for a buy-it-now listing, though you might get more if you want to risk a standard auction.

> Sell your phone on eBay

Get a quote from CEX

Next, I’d check CEX. How much you’ll get really varies according to the phone, condition and how many they have in stock. However, it’s possible to get a really decent price on more recent handsets. You won’t know how much you’ll get until they’ve assessed it, so it might be best to pop into the shops to get a more accurate quote.

You’ll get more if you exchange for credit, but only do this if you are sure there are things you want to buy.

> See what you’ll get at CEX

Compare recycling sites

If you can’t be bothered with eBay, then try one of these. It’s the easiest way to sell your phone. You can see a range of prices with the comparison sites and then click through to different companies offering to take your phone. They’ll usually send you a padded envelope

Compare and Recycle, Compare my Mobile and SellMyMobile are all good comparison sites of the leading buyers. Check reviews of the companies as a higher price might not be worth it if people have had problems.

You can go direct too and might be able to drop phones off in stores. For example, O2 Recycle often has lower but still decent prices. I’ve used them before and been happy with the service. Carphone Warehouse is also worth a look.

There are a couple of risks with many of these. First you won’t know the final price until they’ve got it – and it could be less than you hoped or were initially quoted. And there’s also the risk that it could get damaged while in the post, so it’s worth considering paying for postage that comes with insurance.

Sell to a friend

Of course you can avoid all that hassle and fees if you’ve got a mate who will buy it. They’ll get a cheaper handset than buying via a second hand retailer and you’ll get an easy sale. Just hope they don’t start moaning if it breaks!

How much money you can make

Obviously it depends on your make, model and year for the base price. Even the colour can impact the value. You’ll get more for an unlocked phone, whle the condition of the phone can make a huge difference.

My experience

The best prices are for newer handsets, where you can get over £500 for the latest models.

I really look after my phones, so they’re in top condition. When I switched from my 5C to the 6 in 2014 I made a whopping £340 on eBay after fees – £200 more than if I’d sold it to a resale site. Remember it was only a year old so came with a premium price.

But even older phones have a decent return. My three-year old iPhone 6 could potentially have picked up £230 plus on eBay in 2017, but I ended up selling it to a friend for just a little less (£200) to save the hassle and cut out the fees.

I then sold my iPhone 7 Plus last year for £400 after fees – a bigger price but obviously it was a more expensive handset in the first place.

Selling an iPhone 11

I’ve looked at how much you’d get for 2019’s iPhone 11 with 64GB in Black one year on in top condition. Obviously these prices can and will change frequently but they should give you an idea.

  • eBay (sold this week): £375 to £599 (before fees)
  • Compare and Recycle (top price listed): £426 from reBuy
  • CEX (A grade condition): £325 (cash); £433 (voucher)

There you go! Best of luck selling your handset, and if you haven’t upgraded yet, read my guide to getting the best value when you upgrade.

January 9, 2020   |   Articles

How to set savings goals you’ll actually stick to

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Anyone who wants to build up a savings pot is alright by me. Having savings isn’t just vital for emergencies, they’re also key to letting you live the life you want without resorting to borrowing.

The problem for many though is that just saying “I want to save more” isn’t actually going to make it happen. I wrote last week about ways you can automate savings, and that’s a huge help.

But if you want to keep motivated and keep on saving, you need to know what you are actually saving for. Not something vague. No, you need a goal. 

In this video I’ve shared the things you need to do to make that goal something that you’ll stick to until you’ve put aside the cash you need.

 

September 11, 2019   |   Articles

Is a smart meter worth it?

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I’ve previously resisted getting a smart meter, but in July I had one installed. Here’s why I got it, and whether I think it’s worth it.

This summer my energy company finally made the switch (in my area at least) from first-generation smart meters (known as SMETS I) to the second generation version (aka SMETS II). This was important as the earlier option has been known to become a “dumb” meter if you switch supplier – something I do every year.

So once I was guaranteed a smart meter that would keep working, regardless of who supplied my gas and electricity, I booked a slot to have one installed.

In this video I’ve shared how the installation went, and my assessment of the three reasons why the energy companies say we should get one.

My previous video on smart meters

Eight mistakes you make when switching energy

February 8, 2017   |   Articles

My week of being clever with my cash

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These are the kinds of savings I make every week – and you can do it too.

When I started Be Clever With Your Cash I wrote a series of blog posts under the title Save-ometer. Every day for a year – every single day – I kept track of what I spent and how much money being clever with your cash could save. The figure at the end of 12 months surprised me. It was a whopping £13,917. 

I tried to repeat this in 2016, but it wasn’t to be. Painstakingly detailing all the possible savings takes a long time, and to be brutally honest I had better things to do!

So rather than a year, I’ve kept track for just for one week. Everything I’ve spent has been totalled up, and I’ve calculated what it could have cost if I’d just spent without thinking.

Here’s a video diary of the savings as I made them:

Could being clever with my cash make me £12,000 better off?

So, the total was a saving of £237! Just from one week.

That’s around £1,000 a month, and over a year adds up to £12,325!

I wouldn’t be surprised if I hit this total, or even exceed it.

Yes, not everything I did this week will happen every week. But there are plenty of potential savings (and big ones too) that didn’t happen this week. And this doesn’t even take into account things like switching energy, getting the best interest rates or cashback.

Your week won’t be the same as mine, but the principle remains the same. Of course, it doesn’t mean I’ll have an extra £12k in my bank. But it does mean I can do more with what I earn.

Think about how you spend – be clever with your cash – and you’ll have more money to spend as you need too – whether that’s on essentials, luxuries or even just building up savings.

If you want a breakdown of all the ways I spent and saved, keep on reading.

How I made savings of £237 in one week

Here’s my diary of what I spent and how I saved.

Tuesday

Today I was at work in central London, and out with friends in the evening.

– Tube

  • Cost: £9.50
  • Saved: £3
  • Made (from cashback credit card): 9p

Now I don’t travel into town every day I don’t buy an annual season ticket (normally the biggest way to save). Instead, I pay with a contactless card. I took four trips today and the daily cap was £9.50. Individually the journeys would have cost £12.60, while a day travel card would have been £12.50.

I also used my American Express card, which earns 1% for every full pound I spend, so that’s 9p made (I promise these small savings do make a difference over the year!).

– Lunch

  • Cost: £1
  • Saved: £6.95
  • Made: £0

It took me five minutes this morning to make a sandwich for lunch. I’ve not weighed out exactly how much cheese I used or calculated the price of each tomato I used, but for two cheese and salad sarnies it comes in at around a quid. If I’d popped down to the Chilango burrito joint below my work it would have cost £7.95!

– Drinks

  • Cost: £11.75
  • Saved: £0
  • Made: 11p

I bought a round for my colleagues after work. It was only a quick drink so normally I’d avoid rounds as I either end up paying for more than I drink or feeling bad I didn’t buy a drink in return. But this was a little different as we were celebrating my friend’s new baby.

– Dinner

  • Cost: £22.50
  • Saved: £14
  • Made: 22p

However, I then went on to dinner with old school mates. We went to Wahaca, a good value Mexican chain, and found it was Taco Tuesday! This knocked £4 each off the bill, plus staying there for an extra drink and playing free table football worked out £10 cheaper than the original table tennis plan.

Wednesday

One of my days working at home on the blog, but again, meeting up with a friend in the evening.

– Breakfast, lunch & dinner

  • Cost: £0
  • Saved: £3.85 (average amount wasted on food per person each week)
  • Made: £0

Today I was working at home so food is obviously going to be cheaper. But I took advantage of our freezer contents to use up leftover bolognese. The average family wastes £600 a year, working out at £200 per person, on food that goes off or leftovers that are thrown away. So the £3.85 figure I’ve used is the average weekly amount people save.

– Tube  

  • Cost: £5.60
  • Saved: £0
  • Made: 5p

– Free comedy

  • Cost: £0
  • Saved: £17 (price of a Comedy Store ticket on a Wednesday)
  • Made: 11p

Tonight I headed to ITV Studios to see a free recording of Harry Hill’s new panel show. You can get tickets to all sorts of TV and radio programmes, and though they can be frustrating when you watch the same joke again and again in retakes, it’s still a very cheap way to see some entertainment.

– Drinks

  • Cost: £11.50
  • Saved: £7.70
  • Made: 11p

It’s a Wednesday night so there’s no need for a double! However, that’s the standard serving at the bar we visited. So I asked for singles, saving close to £8.

Thursday

Another day at the office in town, then a trip to the movies after.

– Tube

  • Cost: £6.70
  • Saved: £0
  • Made: 6p

– Lunch

  • Cost: £1
  • Saved: £6.99
  • Made: £0

– Cinema

  • Cost: £4.25
  • Saved: £10.54 (extra to go to the Vue cinema around the corner)
  • Made: 4p

After work, I head to the Odeon in Panton Street, near Leicester Square. Tickets here are already cheap, but I’ve got an NUS card (here’s how you can too), and not only does that give you student price, you get an extra 25% off at Odeons from Monday to Thursday. I also saved an extra 10% through buying an Odeon gift card from Zeek.

Friday

An early start today as I headed into London for the newspaper review on Share Radio.

– Tube

  • Cost: £9.50
  • Saved: £3
  • Made: 9p

– Wifi/cafe

  • Cost: £0
  • Saved: £4 (price of one hour BT wi-fi pass or a drink and cake)
  • Made: £0

I had a few hours to kill between the radio slot and meeting up with other money bloggers for lunch. I needed to work, but rather than heading to any old cafe where I’d have to buy food and drink, or pay for wi-fi elsewhere, I went to a place I know I can work in peace and not have to spend any cash.

Frustratingly the free wi-fi didn’t work, but I was able to “tether” the data from my phone and use my contract.

– Lunch

  • Cost: £17.50
  • Saved: £0
  • Made: £0

We headed to Dishoom in Covent Garden for lunch. Though not the cheapest place, it’s exceptional value for the quality you get.

– Cinema

  • Cost: £9.38
  • Saved: £6.62
  • Made: £0

A few weeks back I bought a membership for the Picturehouse Central in London. It’s an amazing cinema. Membership gets you four free tickets, £3 off other tickets and access to a great members bar (where I often use as an office when in town).

I managed to get the membership half-price at £37.50, meaning the “free” ticket worked out as £9.38 rather than £13 – but with all the future savings I’ll make with the card it could potentially be less.

– Supermarket

  • Cost: £41.86
  • Saved: £22.50
  • Made: £0

Yes, that’s right we saved around 25% on an online Waitrose order. There are a few ways we did this. First, we used special offers on things we needed. Second, we used own brand or cheaper options for some things. Third, we signed up for Waitrose Pick Your Own Offers (giving 20% off selected items). Fourth, we returned substitutions we didn’t want (it’s a waste of money keeping the replacements if they’re not want you want). And finally, we used a discounted gift card from Zeek.

Saturday

Catching up with friends in South London, a (horrendous) Crystal Palace football match and then dinner with friends.

– Petrol

  • Cost: £46.47
  • Saved: £3.74
  • Made: £46p

Petrol isn’t cheap, but we knew we’d need to fill up so did it locally rather than on the M25.

– Football

  • Cost: £23.50
  • Saved: £16.50
  • Made: 23p

The last match I’ll be able to use my NUS card to get a discount at as they’ve now changed the definition of concession from “student” to 18-21 years old. On current form that might be no bad thing.

– Train

  • Cost: £2.30
  • Saved: £1.40
  • Made: 2p

I used contactless for this short train trip after the match. Since this route isn’t run by Transport for London, you’re encouraged to buy a paper ticket, which actually would have cost more than tapping in and out!

– Beers

  • Cost: £4.50
  • Saved: £1.49
  • Made: £0

Another NUS discount, this time at Co-op, where tasty craft beers were three for £5, then even less with a 10% student discount.

Sunday

Some shopping, then forward planning for a train trip next month.

– Ikea

  • Cost: £35.75
  • Saved: £30
  • Made: 35p

I needed some storage for my office and it worked out close to half-price cheaper in Ikea than WH Smiths for the equivalent.

– Train

  • Cost: £42.50
  • Saved: £72.50
  • Made: 42p

I’m going to Sheffield next month. Buying an off-peak return on the day could cost £115, but I made a huge saving getting a ticket in advance, even just four weeks ahead.

Monday

Back in the office for the last day of my challenge.

– Tube

  • Cost: £7.80
  • Saved: £0
  • Made: 7p

– Lunch

  • Cost: £0.92
  • Saved: £3.67
  • Made: £0

On Monday’s I don’t bring a packed lunch. Instead, I take advantage of the O2 Priority Moments offer to get a £1 Boots meal deal. And since I use a discounted gift card, I save another 8%!

I’m not even on O2 anymore – there’s a trick where anyone can get the offers!

– Supermarket

  • Cost: £4.34
  • Saved: £1.56
  • Made: £0

My last purchase for the week was to nip into the little Sainsbury’s below work to nab some reduced items. I’m a little obsessed with grabbing these bargains and putting into the freezer for a later date meat and fish far cheaper than full price.

Totals for the week

  • Spend: £320.12
  • Saved: £237.01
  • Made: £2.43

If this was a typical week, that would work out as saving £1,027 a month, and a huge £12,324.52 a year!

The cashback from the credit card would add up to £126.36 a year, and I’ve not even factored in cashback from bills and interest on savings.