The best of Be Clever With Your Cash in 2021

Catch up on my top articles, podcasts and videos from the last 12 months.

Over the last 12 months I’ve produced more content than ever before, writing 174 articles, recording 84 episodes of my Cash Chats podcast and uploading 142 videos to YouTube. And that’s not including countless deals posted here on the blog and Instagram!

No doubt even the most regular readers among you won’t have managed to take in all that money-saving and making content. So here’s a look at the highlights that are still well worth a look.

I’ve shared the most read, listened to and viewed over the year, which lends an obvious bias to content produced earlier in the year, so for each category I’ve also shared my personal favourite from the year.

And I’d also like to say thank you to all of you who consumer my content. This year will be my biggest by a long way, with more than 4 million views across all content. That’s double 2020’s figures. I couldn’t have done it without you, so thanks!

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

The Be Clever With Your Cash blog in 2021

It’s been another record year for visits to this site. In total 1.9 million people (up from 1.2 million last year) came to Be Clever With Your Cash reading a total of just over 2.8 million pages (up from 1.6 million in 2020).

I think part of this is down to the total redesign of the site back in May, and new sections for “Best Buys” and improved search on “Deals

People looking at these sections for the best savings accounts and current accounts were as ever a huge part of the traffic, along with pages offering deals.

Elsewhere the most read new articles published this year included:

My personal favourities included my scoop on Sainsbury’s changing in-store Nectar offers and my expose of misleading advertising by HyperJar.

The Andy Clever Cash YouTube channel in 2021

2021 was the year where YouTube really grew for me. I started 2020 with 4,100 subscribers and by the time you read this that figure could well have just nudged over 20,000.

Views were also phenomenal, with more than 1.2 million taking place across all the videos – that’s almost 1 million more than in 2020.

Alongside the usual video guides, I also held 34 live Ask Andy Q&A’s which have been an amazing way to connect with you every other week.

The most viewed videos created this year included a number of “best for 2021 videos”, which I won’t share below as they’re obviously out of date (new versions are coming in the next few weeks). But of the rest, these had the most views:

It’s hard to pick a favourite here, but I love the format of the monthly updates on savings, banking and credit cards, while this week’s look at the best budgeting apps took more than a day to research, film and edit – so I hope it does well!

The Cash Chats podcast in 2021

There have been a total of 172,000 downloads (up by 46,000 from 2020) of Cash Chats, firmly placing it in the top 1% of podcasts WORLDWIDE.

I managed to publish at least one episode a week all year, bringing the number of consecutive weeks to 102! Podcasting might be smaller than the others, and not really bring in any income, but I love being able to speak to guests or just chat to you each week.

This year also saw the launch of a new bonus Friday episode called Your Money, This Week, and that was part of 2021 being the biggest year for my podcast.

The most listened to episodes this year were:

You can subscribe to Cash Chats on your podcast app via these buttons

Our podcast

Listen to Cash Chats, our award-winning podcast, presented by Editor-in-chief Andy Webb and Deputy Editor Amelia Murray.

Episodes every Tuesday.

Andy and Amelia with the text "Cash Chats Personal finance podcast"

What you should be asking for this Christmas

If you’ve got family and friends asking what you want this Christmas and you’re struggling for ideas I’m here to help.

This isn’t one of those gift list guides that crop up everywhere from glossies to blogs. They’re often just lists of overpriced items the writer has been sent for free. Rarely of much use!

No, this is a very simple trick to not just give you a little bit of inspiration, but also help you spend less money on yourself throughout next year.

ask for christmas

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

My struggle for gift ideas

I know lots of people never really know what to say when asked what they want for Christmas – myself included.

It’s not that I don’t ever need anything, it’s just that I always buy what I want or need when I need it. Or for expensive things I tend to save up until I’ve enough cash, and then get it. So come December, my Christmas List is usually non-existent.

It really frustrates my family and I sometimes end up being given gifts which, being really honest, can be hit and miss. I’ve got to take most of the blame here. If I could just name what I want, it could avoid all this waste. But year after year I’ve struggled for ideas.

But a few years ago my friend Michelle said something which was a revelation. As soon as she mentioned it, I couldn’t believe just how obvious it was. I suddenly realised I hadn’t ever properly thought about what I really needed.

If someone asks what I would like, I’ve always thought about what I need at this moment in time. And that’s why I’ve struggled.

But the answer is to think beyond “right now”. Think about everything you frequently pay for throughout the year. 

What you should be asking for

Of course, if there is something else you’ve had your eye on but not been able to afford, or haven’t got around to buying yet, then that’s the perfect thing to ask for. But if not…?

Consider every regular cost you have. These are the things you actually need. These are where money spent on a present for you is going to actually be well spent. And they can still be nice things.

But there is a limit – I wouldn’t ask for money towards your other bills like energy or broadband. If you’re really struggling to make ends meet then there are different conversations that need to be had – perhaps a present amnesty so you don’t have to spend cash you don’t have.

Anyway, here are a few things you could be asking for.

The things you always buy

Ok, yes you might already get socks from your mum at Christmas, but what else do you need to resupply on? These are the things you will need, even if not at this moment.

Cosmetics and toiletries are top options here. You will get through a number of these through the year and they can often be expensive. So asking for one or two of them is a good bet.

Booze is another good one, as with most there isn’t a best before date you need to keep an eye on. This means there’s no problem getting them at Christmas for much later in the year.

Your subscriptions and memberships

There will also be many more expenses which aren’t things you buy in a shop.

Subscriptions for a start. If you pay for Netflix or Spotify every month, then why not ask someone to pay for it for a few months? Could someone buy you Amazon Prime for a year?

And if you’d be happy for someone to buy you Netflix, even the TV Licence could be a gift. It might seem weird, but think about it. You get all the tv and radio channels, as well as the website. That’s not really any different than asking for a DVD or CD.

Do you have any memberships, perhaps to the National Trust or Picturehouse Cinemas? Again, perfect gifts. Even if the renewal date isn’t for a few months, you can still ask for money towards it.

If you go to any classes, clubs or activities, see if someone will buy a batch of them for you. Services are another area you could ask for as gifts. Think haircuts or massages.

Activities and events

One of my go-to ideas for gifts is money towards a gig, or cash towards a special meal out. If you can name the actual concert or restaurant that’ll help the gift giver feel like the money won’t fritter away.

You could even crowdsource among different family members. I did this for my 40th, and this helped fund a trip to double Michelin star restaurant L’Enclume.

Services that free up your time

You could push this idea further still. If you pay for a cleaner or gardener, ask for a contribution towards these costs. That might feel like it’s taking this idea too far.

But the main reason people pay for these is to free up time to spend with their family. So it’s really a gift of time that is being given. I think that’s actually a top present.

Money vs gift cards

You probably could cover some of these expenses with gift cards – but I’d argue you’d be better off asking for money and making it clear how it will be spent.

With gift cards there’s always the risk that you’ll forget you’ve got them or lose them. Or, as we see year after year, if a shop goes under there’s no guarantee you’ll be able to use any cards you’ve still not spent.

Dealing with people who don’t like these ideas

These aren’t perfect solutions. For one thing, you can’t really wrap most of these, except cosmetics or booze. And this could be an issue for some gift-givers.

There’s often a reluctance to hand over money as a present. And even if someone is willing to do that, how often have you had people buy you little extras just so there’s something to unwrap?

It always annoys me when someone says “It’s the thought that counts”. No. I completely disagree. That’s only true if a gift is truly well-intentioned but falls short. Yet even then I’d argue it would be better to not buy something than buy a gift someone doesn’t want.

And I hate waste. Yes there’s the environmental impact of unwanted gifts, which shouldn’t be forgotten, but I really, really hate wasted money – whether that’s my money or someone else’s. And I hate it even more if it can be avoided.

So if you’re happy to receive the above suggestions as gifts then stick to your guns. Explain how they’ll help you throughout the year. Share why the service, subscription or club are important to you. Tell them why you don’t need little extras you won’t use. Hopefully they’ll happily accept your gift request.

If not, it’s the gift giver who needs to think about why they are buying you something in the first place. If they then decide to just buy you something else there’s little you can do.

Yes, sometimes a surprise gift can be spot on, and that’s fantastic. But let’s face it, it’s usually hit and miss.

Our podcast

Listen to Cash Chats, our award-winning podcast, presented by Editor-in-chief Andy Webb and Deputy Editor Amelia Murray.

Episodes every Tuesday.

Andy and Amelia with the text "Cash Chats Personal finance podcast"

If you really don’t want or need anything

If you don’t feel these ideas work for you, then a final suggestion is one where the thought really does count. You could instead ask for a donation to a charity of your choice. I think you’ll agree it’s a far better option than getting a gift that ends up in the bin.

Finally, if you’re still to buy gifts, make sure you ask people what they want. If they’re struggling for ideas, maybe share this article with them – it could be the inspiration they need.

#FoodBankAdvent: How it works, and why you should take part

Join me and hundreds more in donating food and raising awareness of food poverty with a reverse advent calendar.

Many of you know I also run the UK Money Bloggers community. It’s a group of people like me. We’re all a bit geeky when it comes to money, and we enjoy sharing our passion with the readers of all our blogs. It’s a lovely network and a great source of support for everyone involved. But that’s not all it does.

Collectively we’ve got hundreds of thousands of readers, Insta-groupies, Facebook fans and Twitter followers. We’re what the industry calls “Digital Influencers”. And this means we can make a difference en mass. Or at least make a decent bit of noise.

So each year we run a Christmas campaign. A couple of years ago we had the idea of #FoodBankAdvent  and this’ll be the fifth year we’re doing it. Tens of thousands of people have taken part, and we want even more of you to join in this year.

What is the #FoodBankAdvent challenge?

You all know how advent calendars work. Well this is a reverse advent calendar. Rather than take something away, you give instead.

The challenge is to do this for 24 days. On each day you put an item into a box. And then once the box is full, you donate it to a food bank.

It’s very simple. Yes, you could just donate a box of food in one go (please do!), but doing it this way not only makes it a bit of a project, but it also helps raise awareness of the need for donations.

Each year many of the people taking part, both bloggers and readers, shared their pictures on social media with the hashtag #FoodBankAdvent and it makes a huge difference getting more people to join in.

Why food banks?

Millions of people in the UK are going hungry every year. Some of this is down to debts and low pay, but delays to Universal Credit payments are often making the matter worse.

Those struggling don’t have enough money to cover their essentials, and that often means there’s not enough money to eat.

Recent figures from the Trussell Trust, which runs the largest network of food banks in the UK, show they distributed three-day emergency food supplies to 1.9 million over the 12 month period BEFORE the pandemic. And demand has soared since. It’s shocking that this happens.

If you aren’t convinced, then watch Ken Loach’s film I, Daniel Blake. It’s an amazing film, even if I was in tears for most of it. Please do watch the whole movie, but if you can’t, then watch this clip. It really brought home to me the needs to do something to stop food poverty.

Now is the time to start your reverse advent calendar

You can do this at any time, but it helps to do it in November. The main reason is you are then ready to donate it in early December rather than just before Christmas.

Food banks are usually staffed by volunteers and rarely open every day. That means the earlier you get your donations to them, the easier it is for them to sort the items and get them to people. A donation on Christmas Eve might seem the most festive, but it’s also the least practical.

You can of course donate in the New Year instead if you want, just make sure the dates on the food you are collecting are long enough. And if you can, please do continue to donate throughout 2022.

How you can take part

It’s really easy. Start collecting extra bits when you go to the supermarket. And not just food. Toiletries, including sanitary towels, are expensive too and are very welcome donations.

Here’s my collection from 2020:

It’s well worth checking out what your local food bank needs, as often there’s a surplus of some items (pasta and beans for example) and a lack of others.

You can search for Trussell Trust food banks by postcode, but there might be others in your area run by local community or church groups. It might be you need to take your donation to one of the foodbanks, but you might also have a drop off point at your local supermarket (there’s one in my Waitrose for example).

Please, please, please do share your progress on social media, and use #FoodBankAdvent. Combined we can use this to make some noise and get even more people taking part.

You can also read more about the campaign and get regular updates over at www.ukmoneybloggers.com.

LTV & the remortgaging tricks that’ll save you thousands

Don’t miss out on even better deals when looking for a new mortgage offer.

If you’re on a fixed mortgage deal you might just see remortgaging as something you need to do to avoid moving on to a more expensive standard variable rate. Of course doing that will save you money but it’s possible to use remortgaging to reduce how much you pay over the term even more.

I’m not going to go through everything you need to do when you remortgage here – things like check your credit report for errors, get paperwork together and watch your spending and credit applications in the run-up to your application.

This is all very important stuff and could well have changed since you last got a mortgage. So do read up on all of that.

Instead, I’m going to focus here on a few simple things you can do that could make a big difference to the monthly and total cost of your mortgage. And the main one involves something called “Loan to Value”.

Watch this video or keep reading (or both)

What is Loan to Value?

Loan to Value, or LTV, is essentially how much you have borrowed against the value of your house. So if you originally bought a £300,000 house with a £30,000 deposit you would have had an LTV of 90%. That’s a mortgage loan of £270,000.

So why does this matter to remortgaging? Well, LTV is measured in bands. They generally start at 95% (meaning you’ve put down a 5% deposit) and drop in 5% increments down to 60%, though sometimes the gaps between tiers are larger (eg 75% and then 60%).

Mortgage interest rates tend to then drop for each band you move down. And obviously the lower the interest rate you get, the less you’ll pay.

For example, at the time of writing, a 5-year fix with First Direct with 90% LTV is 2.84%, while an 85% LTV would get you 2.34% and 80% would be 2.19%. And it keeps falling. A mortgage with an LTV of 75% is 1.59% and 60% is 1.49%. A big difference.

And over time there’s a good chance your LTV will have changed, therefore meaning you might getter a better deal when it comes around to remortgaging.

There are two key changes that could have affected your LTV since you agreed to your last mortgage deal.

How your LTV could have changed

First, unless you’re on an interest-only mortgage, you’ve been paying into your mortgage every single month, building up equity.

Say you’ve knocked £15,000 off the mortgage in equity payments (don’t forget some of your monthly repayments will have gone towards interest charges), then you have added an extra 5% to what you own. This means your LTV would now be 85% and you can apply for the next tier of mortgages.

And second, your property value could have increased. Let’s say it’s now worth 5% more at £315,000. That’s an extra £15k. Alongside your initial deposit and the 15k in repayments, it would give you £60,000 of equity – roughly 19% of the total value. That means the LTV is now 81%. 

However, in the example above, the repayments and extra value might give an LTV of 81% but it would still only mean getting access to deals in the 85% LTV bracket, rather than 80%.

When you’re really close to a new tier, finding some extra cash from savings or cutting back ahead of remortgaging would be well worth it. Here an extra £3,000 might seem a huge amount but the drop down to the 80% band could be a big saver over time.

Using our example mortgage size, a 0.45% difference between 85% and 80% LTV tiers over five years would be just £2,000, but over 25 years that variation in rate would be worth £15,000.

I always use the mortgage calculators from Money Saving Expert to work out what effect things like different rates have on payments, so it’s worth taking a look at playing around.

How to get a new valuation for LTV

You can get a sense of price changes using a site like Zoopla. You put your postcode in and you’ll get an estimate as to the current value of your property. It’ll be shown in a range which can be quite broad. For example, it suggests my house has gone up by £20k to £79k more than we paid for it two years ago.

You can also get an idea from Zoopla and RightMove as to what other similar properties have gone for recently. Have a nose at the listings online so you can see if it’s a similar layout and standard inside. Remember these are just guides.

For a more accurate idea you could invite an estate agent over to give you their input – there’s no commitment for you to list the house if you do this. You can then put a figure on your application. 

The mortgage lender will then want to do their own valuation (and charge you for it!). This could just be a drive-by looking at the outside of the property, or they might want to come into the house. You probably won’t know which one it is, so make sure everything looks good inside just in case. 

This won’t happen though until you’re already quite a decent way through your application process so if you don’t get what you want to bear in mind you’ll start all over again with another lender. 

Shop around for the lowest rate

Once you’ve checked the LTV you could just remortgage with your existing lender. That might be the quickest option, and it could mean you don’t need to go through as many hoops and cut out some fees. But it could also mean you’re missing out on some much lower deals. 

You can see general rates on comparison sites, which are really handy to get an idea of what’s out there. You can also talk to a mortgage advisor.

A few extras to bear in mind when comparing different rates:

Find out if you are able to overpay 

It’s really worth looking to see what the rules are in terms of overpayment. Some won’t let you do it at all, while others might have annual limits. Best is complete freedom to pay what you want each month and the ability to clear it completely before the term ends.

Even if you don’t think you’ll be able to overpay by much, if at all, right now, you never know how things could change. It’s really useful to have that flexibility.

And overpaying can save you a fortune in interest charges as well as help you clear the debt earlier. There’s more on whether you should pay your mortgage off early here.

Watch out for fees

You’ll get charged all sorts of different fees with different mortgages, and they can make good looking deals actually worse than ones with higher interest.

The main ones are the arrangement and booking fees. These facilitate the deal and could be non-refundable. You need to factor in these to the total cost of the mortgage deal.

Do this over the length of the deal (eg three years) to work out what you’ll actually be paying over time, and compare it to one with higher rates and lower fees.

Consider if you want to fix for longer

If interest rates are going to shoot up in the coming years, you might want to look beyond the usual 2-year fixes. There are often five and 10-year options available, though you’ll pay a higher rate for these.

Check how much you’ve left to pay

One reason not to remortgage is when you’ve almost cleared your debt. That’s because the fees that are added to new deals could well wipe out the savings you’ll make by sticking put – even if it’s at a higher interest rate! So work out how much you’ll be paying by sticking put just in case it works out cheaper.

When to remortgage

It’s worth looking for new deals around three months before your deal ends as it can take time to get the process approved.

Saying that, you can remortgage at any time, though if you do it before your deal ends you could get hit with exit fees – usually known as early repayment fees.

So generally it’s best not to do it early but you might want to keep an eye on any potential base rate changes by the Bank of England.

If it looks like there’s going to be a significant rise you might want to switch your deal early to get hold of lower price deals – but of course you need to factor in any early repayment charge as well as any changes to LTV.

Autumn Budget 2021: What you need to know

What you need to know about the Government’s spending and taxation plans.

This Autumn Budget, as announced in Parliament by Chancellor Rishi Sunak on 27 October 2021 didn’t have many surprises.

Most of the measures were leaked in the days ahead than in any previous year I’ve covered (even more than last March’s budget).

But there were still some extra details and a handful of fresh announcements, and I’ve compiled a list of the key ones below.

More detail may come in the next few days, and I’ll add information below as it’s revealed.

I’ll also be talking to the financial journalist Lily Canter on Thursday’s episode of my Cash Chats podcast to analyse everything. You can subscribe now on your favourite podcast app so you don’t miss it.

Watch my Q&A on YouTube talking about the Budget

Jobs & benefits

The headlines here are around wage increases for the lower paid and public sector workers – though in the context of high inflation and increased living costs, any extra cash is likely to be eaten by elsewhere.

Minimum wage to increase

From April the National Living Wage for those over 23 years old will increase from £8.91 an hour to £9.50 an hour. This 6.6% rise means someone on minimum wage who works 35 hours a week will see their pre-tax income jump up by £1,074.

This is before tax, the increase in National Insurance and any impact on the UC uplift cut.

And of course, many employers will choose to pass on some or all of this cost on to customers – which will also eat into the value of this increase.

There are also increases for younger workers. Those aged 21 or 22 will see the minimum wage increase from £8.36 to £9.18. It’ll increase from £6.56 to £6.83 for those between 18 and 20 years old, while under 18s will see a jump of 19p to £4.81 an hour. The Apprentice rate will go from £4.30 to £4.81 an hour.

It’s worth noting here that though the Government rebranded the minimum wage as the National Living Wage a few years ago, it’s different from the level recommended by the Living Wage Foundation. The figures for 2021 will be announced on 15 November and with the increased cost of living over the last 12 months it’ll remain higher than the increases listed above.

Universal Credit taper change

People claiming UC will be able to earn more from work before they begin to lose their benefits.

The current “taper rate” of 63p means that if you earn over a certain amount you’ll only keep the equivalent of 37p from every pound due in benefits – putting some off working more hours or going for better paid jobs.

The new rate will be 55p per £1, and this will be introduced within weeks and certainly before 1 December 2021.

There will also be an increase by £500 a year in the Work Allowance (how much you can earn before the taper is introduced) for those caring for children or a household member with limited capacity for work.

Public sector pay increases

Workers for the NHS, schools, police, civil service and other parts of the public sector will see a pay freeze ended. It’s not clear what the increase will be, and it’ll no doubt vary depending on each area. All the small print says is the increases “should retain broad parity with the private sector”.

Nothing on rumoured student loan changes

Nothing was said about the rumoured change to when people begin repaying student loans – though that could still come as a separate announcement.

Personal Tax & Savings

Alcohol tax revamped

There will be just six (rather than 15) different tariffs on booze. The stronger alcohol will be taxed more than before, while lower alcohol drinks will be taxed less. Four of these tiers (though not the rates) will be:

  • 1.2-3.4% alcohol by volume (ABV),
  • 3.5-8.4% ABV,
  • 8.5-22% ABV,
  • and above 22% ABV

As part of this, sparkling wines will no longer be taxed more than still wines, and fruit cider will be taxed at the same rate as apple and pear cider.

There will be a relief for smaller producers while pubs will also get a break with 5% relief on draught beer and cider – presumably these are the two other tariffs.

These new rules won’t come into effect until April 2023, but the broader increases set for alcohol this year will be cancelled.

Flight tax changes

There will be a 50% cut in Air Passenger Duty for domestic flights, but long-haul flights over 5,500 miles will be faced with a new tax that will be £91 for economy, and more for higher classes. That’ll include most of South America and Asia, and potentially the west coast USA.

I’ve had a quick look at distances using this site, and London to Los Angeles is under 5,500, but Edinburgh to LA is just over! While it’s the other way around for trips to Mexico City. I’d imagine the 5,500 distance will be evened out, rather than making it more expensive to fly from Scotland than England.

Fuel duty hike frozen

Fuel Duty won’t increase this year, though there are no cuts to changes to combat record petrol prices.

Personal tax

The big tax increases were announced last month – a hike of 1.25% on National Insurance and Dividends to start in April. Income Tax rates were also frozen last year and there were no changes announced.

VAT stays on energy bills

Some have been calling for a temporary suspension of 5% VAT on energy bills to help with the huge increases over recent months (which will likely continue). This was rejected by the Chancellor and stays in place.

Green Savings Bond

First announced back in March’s Budget, the Green Savings Bonds are now available to use for your savings – though they aren’t great. Here’s my analysis and list of alternatives.

Business Tax

I won’t go into all the business announcements as this is about personal finance, but there are a few significant ones.

50% discount on Small Business Rates

To help small retailers, hospitality and leisure businesses there will be a 50% cut in Business Rates for a year.

There will also be changes to broader Business Rates that’ll see them reviewed every three years, and a planned increase for next year will be cancelled.

No new online sales tax

It was thought there’d be some kind of announcement on an extra tax for online businesses, but this didn’t happen.

Property developer tax to fund cladding removal

The biggest property developers (worth more than £25million profit) will be taxed at 4% to build a £5billion pot to fund cladding removal on high risk buildings.

** UPDATE – turns out this is another measure that has already been announced!

Our podcast

Listen to Cash Chats, our award-winning podcast, presented by Editor-in-chief Andy Webb and Deputy Editor Amelia Murray.

Episodes every Tuesday.

Andy and Amelia with the text "Cash Chats Personal finance podcast"

Spending announcements

Transport

A regional transport package was announced worth £6.9bn, though only £1.5 billion is new money – the rest has been previously been revealed, including £4.2bn in 2019.

The money is to be spent on buses, trams and trains in England. Further money will go to Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.

Education and skills

School funding will return to 2010 levels, worth £1,500 extra per pupil.

There will be money spent to fund new T-Level qualifications for 16 to 19 years olds (announced back in 2020) and £560 million to train 500,000 adults with low numeracy skills via a scheme called Multiply.

Health

A huge £5.9 billion will go to the NHS to largely fund equipment to help reduce the waiting lists for scans and tests that’s built up. This is in addition to the £12bn announced last month that’ll be paid for through the National Insurance increase.

Culture

Some major museums and galleries will get £850 million to redevelop or refurbish buildings. Another £75 million will go to regional museums and libraries to improve facilities.

£500 million fund for families

Local governments will be given funds to launch support centres for families, while money will also be allocated to areas such as mental health services and help with breastfeeding.

Overseas Aid funding returns

By 2024 the UK will once again provide 0.7% of GDP for overseas aid.

Contactless limit now £100: Good or bad?

With the spending limit set to jump to £100, I’ve taken a look at the pros and cons of tap and pay.

I’ve been using contactless since it launched in 2007. It’s so easy that I rarely use cash or Chip and PIN at all. Tap for this, tap for that…

And with the pandemic I think we are all grateful that we don’t have to use the keypad for every card transaction.

I’m not alone. We’ve all been using contactless in the UK so long now that it’s second nature.

Each year more and more transactions are made with a simple tap, particularly with debit cards where 64% are contactless. It’s slightly lower for credit cards (46%) – probably because we’re likely to spend more money on these cards, which may have been beyond the £45 limit.

But that’s all set to change, with the limit now jumping up to £100 from 15 October 2021 (though since card terminals need to be updated it might be later for some retailers).

It’s a big increase. Only 18 months ago the limit was still £30. While some people are worried it’s too high a limit, others are looking forward to paying more this way.

So is it a good or bad move by the Government? Here’s my take on everything from security to convenience.

Some articles on the site contain affiliate links, which provide a small commission to help fund our work. However, they won’t affect the price you pay or our editorial independence. Read more here.

Watch the video or keep reading

Are contactless cards safe?

One big fear with contactless is that it’s easy for someone to steal your card and spend your money. That’s totally true, and though it doesn’t actually happen much, I’d imagine the £100 limit will make card theft more appealing to crooks knowing they can buy more expensive items.

The other worry is that people could scan your card without you realising but holding a reader against your wallet. This sounds scary but in reality it’s far more complicated and there’s apparently no evidence this happens.

But even with these risks, there are protections. First up, card rules state that you have to enter your PIN after five contactless transactions or when you spend a total of £300 across multiple contactless purchases.

(If this happens to you it might appear that your card has been rejected – just try again but this time insert your card rather than tap it and enter your PIN. Here’s more on how this works.).

So the most a crook could spend is £300, and probably less depending on when you last had to enter your PIN.

And if this does happen, then you will get your money back. So you won’t lose out financially, though it will obviously inconvenience you.

Limiting contactless fraud

You can also limit any losses with most banks by enabling a couple of features in the app. One is to get instant notifications each time the card is used. If one pops up on your phone and it wasn’t you, then you know to take action.

And that action can be as simple as freezing your card. Most banks offer this feature now, and it’ll stop whoever has your card spending any more money.

It’s also far better than cancelling your card if you think it’s lost but there haven’t been signs of fraud. If it later turns up you can unfreeze it and keep using it.

You could also consider a RFID wallet. This has aluminium lining which essentially stops anyone scanning your cards. Personally I’ve not bothered with this as the risk is so low.

Changing your contactless limit

A handful of banks are adding in the feature to set your own personal contactless limit. I don’t really think this is necessary based on the other measures outlined above, but if you feel happier this way then it’s worth a look.

The banks doing this are:

BankPersonal contactless limit
Bank of ScotlandIncrements of £5 between £30 and £100
HalifaxIncrements of £5 between £30 and £100
LloydsIncrements of £5 between £30 and £100
Monzo Increments of £5 from £0 to £100 AND total spend when PIN required
StarlingIncrements of £10 between £10 and £100

Other banks might add this feature later. Alternatively some apps let you turn off contactless completely, or you might be able to ask your bank for a debit or credit card which doesn’t have contactless. Again, I think this isn’t going to be necessary for most people.

Making it easier to spend

The convenience of contactless is just how easy and fast it is to spend. The new £100 limit will mean even more purchases are eligible for contactless. For me it means I’ll be able to tap the majority of the time – it’s very rare I buy anything in a shop that costs more.

But that has a flip side too. Other payment methods, cash in particular but Chip & PIN too, introduce levels of friction to every transaction.

When you hand over notes and coins or look at the total on a PIN keypad, you are much more aware of what you are spending. And this registers, even subconsciously. You are more likely to adjust future spending and have a more accurate idea of how much is in your account.

A few years ago on holiday in America I was shocked they still asked me to sign for card payments – but it really made me think about my total spending.

But with contactless it’s so easy to just tap and not even look at the total. And that will happen more often with the £100 limit.

Though it removes some of the convenience, you can reduce the impact this has by asking for receipts. This also has the added advantage of ensuring you haven’t been overcharged.

And going back to banking apps, checking transactions on there as they go through should help register that you have parted with cash, as well as seeing the impact on your total balance.

It’s also possible that some banks might add in the facility for you to set your own lower contactless limit – a good idea if you’re worried you’ll spend more than you should.

Limits are even higher on smart devices

Of course, contactless isn’t just something on cards. You can also use the same technology to pay with mobile devices via Apple Pay, Google Pay and Samsung Pay.

And the £100 limit doesn’t count with these. In fact the only limits are if a retailer wants to have their own in place. A friend told me he used an iPhone to pay for another iPhone!

The reason you can spend more is that these cards have secondary security measures – things like your thumb print or facial recognition.

And it’s possible we could see that technology come to cards too. A few years ago Natwest trialed biometric debit cards – though we’re yet to see them roll out to customers.

The Marriage Allowance tax break explained

You could pay £250 less tax this year – and possibly backdate it for another four years.

The Marriage Allowance is a way to shift some of your tax-free allowance to your husband or wife if they are a low earner.

If you’ve been eligible for the current and past four years you could claim back tax worth £1,188.

There are various conditions so it won’t be for everyone (including me), but it’s certainly worth taking a look at the criteria to see if you can claim.

Here’s how it works and what you need to know.

Who is eligible for the Marriage Allowance?

You need to be either married or in a civil partnership. 

The higher earner in the couple must earn less than £50,270 but more than £12,570 in the tax year you’re applying for. So right now that’s 6th April 2021 to 5th April 2022.

In Scotland it’s a little different and income below £43,662 for the higher earner.

The lower earner in the couple must earn less than £12,570 in the same year. This is the basic rate threshold where you start paying income tax, though if you have a lower limit (for example because you underpaid tax a previous year) then that amount will apply.

You’re able to make a claim if you get a pension, as my parents did. Though if you or your partner were born before 6th April 1935 (so that’s anyone currently 85 years old and above), then you can get choose instead to get the Married Couples Allowance.

How much money can you get?

The scheme allows the lower earner to transfer 10% of their tax-free allowance to the higher earner. So for this tax year, with the threshold at £12,570, you can move £1,257 of the allowance over. 

So let’s say the lower earner’s total income for the year is £10,000. By transferring 10% of their personal allowance to their spouse, their personal allowance drops to £11,313. But since they earn less than this, it doesn’t change the fact that they don’t pay any tax that year,

However the higher earner now has an increased personal allowance of £13,827 before any tax is due. Since the basic rate of tax is 20% this will work out as paying £251.40 less tax in the year (20% of £1,257).

Of course if one of you earns, between £11,313 and £12,570 you won’t get the full benefit. That’s because the lower earner will now have to pay 20% anything above £11,313.

You won’t be paid back any saved cash. Instead the tax code of the higher earner will change and they’ll just pay less tax throughout the year or on their own tax return if they’re self-employed.

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Claiming Marriage Allowance for previous years

You can backdate your claim by four years alongside the current year. The amount per year changes though since the tax thresholds have changed over that time. Even so, your claim is potentially worth up to £1,220 over the five years.

Any money from previous years will be sent to you via cheque so you’ll see the savings (almost) straight away.

You can also claim for a deceased partner if they’ve they were alive and you were both eligible during one or more of those tax years.

Here’s how to see if you were eligible and how much you could potentially claim for these previous years.

2021/22 Marriage Tax Allowance totals

The basic rate upper threshold was £50,000 in 2019/20 (£43,430 in Scotland), while the personal allowance was £12,500.

So the amount you could claim in England, Wales and Northern Ireland would be £252.

2020/21 Marriage Tax Allowance totals

The basic rate upper threshold was £50,000 in 2019/20 (£43,430 in Scotland), while the personal allowance was £12,500.

So the amount you could claim in England, Wales and Northern Ireland would be £250.

2019/20 Marriage Tax Allowance totals

The basic rate upper threshold was £50,000 in 2019/20 (£43,430 in Scotland), while the personal allowance was £12,500.

So the amount you could claim in England, Wales and Northern Ireland would be £250.

2018/19 Marriage Tax Allowance totals

The basic rate upper threshold was £46,350 in 2018/19 (£43,430 in Scotland), while the personal allowance was £11,850.

So the amount you could claim in England, Wales and Northern Ireland would be £238.

2017/18 Marriage Tax Allowance totals

The basic rate upper threshold was £45,000 in 2017/18 (£43,000 in Scotland), while the personal allowance was £11,500. 

So the amount you could claim in England, Wales and Northern Ireland would be £230.

How to claim the Marriage Tax Allowance

It’s really simple. You head to the HMRC website or phone them on 0300 200 3300.

The lowest earner needs to be the one who applies, as it’s their allowance which will transfer over.

You’ll need both your National Insurance numbers, as well as one of the following ways to prove your identity:

  • the last 4 digits of the account that your child benefit, tax credits or pension is paid into
  • the last 4 digits of an account that pays you interest
  • details from your P60
  • details from any of your 3 most recent payslips
  • your passport number and expiry date

Once you’d made the initial claim, it’ll keep going each new financial year.

What if your situation changes?

If you or your partner’s income changes during the current year you are claiming for and you’re no longer eligible then you need to let HMRC know. You’ll still get the tax break for the rest of the year.

You also need to do this if your relationship ends through a divorce, dissolution or if you become legally separated. The claim could be backdated in this scenario which means you could owe tax.

What is a good credit score?

When is your credit rating good or bad? And what does it mean?

I’ve got four different credit scores. 999, 906, 636 and 505. Is one better than the other? You’d assume that since 999 is highest, that’s my best one. And the lowest at 505 needs some work.

But all are actually classed as “excellent”. And the 906 and 505 are from the exact same data – but with different ranges.

So it’s clear that it’s not a simple case of saying the higher the number is better!

In this article I’ll help you get an idea of how good your score actually is, and how the different classifications of bands could impact your changes of borrowing money and applying for credit.

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The problems with credit score ranges

The main issue with credit scores is there isn’t just one. In fact there are three different companies providing scores, and they don’t all use the same data about your finances.

Another problem with credit scores is they’re calculated in completely different ways. You can’t really use a number to say if it’s good or bad without the wider context such as the range that number is taken from. Some are out of around 999, others out closer to 700.

And, to complicate it even more, the companies you apply to don’t actually use these scores! They access the data behind the scores from the credit reference agencies alongside any information you provide. They also look for different things depending what you’re applying for.

So clearly it’s not always so obvious what a good score is and know whether you’re going to be accepted for whatever credit youre applying for.

What credit scores are excellent, good, fair and poor?

Here’s how the three different credit reference agencies class each score, as well as their own ranges.

Experian

Experian is the biggest of the agencies. They score out of 999.

Experian credit score ranges

  • Excellent 961-999
  • Good 881-960
  • Fair 721-880
  • Poor 561-720
  • Very poor 0-560

Equifax

Equifax recently changed the range from 1-700 to 1-1,000.

Equifax credit score ranges

  • Excellent 811+
  • Very Good 671-810
  • Good 531-670
  • Fair 439-530
  • Poor 0-438

However, if you are checking your score for free through Clear Credit you’ll still see the old range. Clearscore told the DebtCamel website.

We have plans to move to a score out of 1000 later in the year. It has always been our mission to make the world of credit clearer, calmer and easier to understand, and this move will hopefully make things a lot clearer for the consumer.”

If you’re seeing the score out of 700 the range is as follows:

Equifax credit score ranges on ClearScore

  • Excellent 467+
  • Good 420-466
  • Fair 367-419
  • Poor 279-366
  • Very poor 0-278

Transunion

TransUnion, which you can access for free through Credit Karma, scores out of 710.

Transunion credit score ranges

  • Excellent 628+
  • Good 604-627
  • Fair 566-603
  • Needs work 1-565

What’s an average credit score in the UK?

Not all the credit reference agencies share this, but ClearScore, using the old Equifax system says at the time of writing that the UK average credit score is 414. This puts it in the “Fair” band, though right at the top.

Experian offers a map where you can break down scores by regions (and age too if you want). For London the average credit score is 887, which ranks as the bottom end of Good. For North Somerset, it’s 823, halfway through Fair.

How important is a credit score?

The most important thing to say here is credit scores don’t actually mean anything definitively. They’re an indicator of how good or bad your credit report is (I’ve explained more in this article about credit reports).

But this isn’t the only information lenders take into account. Extra details you provide, such as your salary, could help or hinder your chances of acceptance. In fact, they won’t even see this score, and will create their own version of it based on their own criteria, the info on your credit report and the extra details they have.

Really the number itself is pretty meaningless, except to measure your progress when trying to improve it. If you see it go up you know you’re doing the right things.

If you see it dip then it could be a sign you need to take some actions – though it’ll always fall a little after a new application and will right itself after a while.

What do the different credit score ranges mean?

Really it’s probably better to look at the category your credit score sites in. Broadly scoring in the different ranges from excellent down to very poor is likely to mean the following:

What an excellent credit score means

Across the agencies “excellent” suggests you’ll probably get accepted for most types of credit and be offered the best rates and deals. But there’s no guarantee and you could still get rejected when you apply.

What a good credit score means

A “good” credit score indicates you will usually be accepted for credit, though you might not get the best deals.

What a fair credit score means

An “average” or “fair” score means there is still a decent chance you’ll get accepted but you won’t get the best deals or rates. For example, you might get a lower credit limit or a shorter 0% period. It’s even more important to use soft checks, particularly on credit card applications, to find out who will accept you.

What a poor credit score means

If your score is classed as “poor” or “needs work” – and it’s likely you’ll be seen as high risk to lend to therefore far less likely to be accepted when applying for credit.

What a very poor credit score means

Right at the bottom, being classed as “very poor” is a sign you will probably get rejected. This could be because you have some black marks on your credit report – such as bankruptcy – or maybe just a very limited credit history.

Andy’s Top Takeway

Credit scores can be a bit of a minefield. Especially considering the score you are looking at may not even be the same score prospective lenders are looking at. Rather than focusing on numerical value, find out where that falls on that agency’s scale and that will give a clearer idea of what your score means.

How to check your credit score

Good news! You don’t need to pay to check your score, or more importantly, your credit report. I’ve written more detail on the free credit report sites here.

Passive income from bank rewards

Is it worth opening multiple current accounts to earn monthly rewards?

I’m a bit of a bank account geek, and have tried and tested most of the UK ones – often as part of nabbing a switching bonus of £100 or more.

But these cash incentives aren’t the only way to make money from your account. There are quite a few which will give you a smaller cash reward every month if you meet certain criteria.

Often that is a requirement to pay in a set amount each month. Sometimes there’s also the need to pay out some direct debits or spend a minimum amount. You might also need to log into your app on a regular basis.

It’s all simple enough. But is it worth the effort? Here’s my take on which ones to open and which ones to avoid. Plus how much you could make if you opened them all up.

The essential reward accounts

If you’re not sure how many current accounts, these are good ones to start with.

With these three accounts combined you’ll make around £160 a year, give or take a tenner since the Santander 123 Lite account cashback value will depend on the size of your household bills.

The Club Lloyds account doesn’t give cash but a choice of “lifestyle benefit” such as cinema tickets or a magazine subscription. I’ve given it a monthly value of £3.50, though it could be more.

Halifax RewardSantander 123 LiteClub Lloyds
Reward£5.00£7.00£3.50
Fee£0.00*£2.00£0.00*
Monthly profit£5.00£5.00£3.50
Annual profit£60.00£60.00£42.00
Requirements includePay in £1,500 a month Pay in £500 a monthPay in £1,500 a month
Spend £500 on debit cardTwo direct debits (though five or six to get full cashback)
Keep balance above £0Paperless
Log in once every three months
More detailsMy Halifax Rewards reviewMy Santander 123 Lite reviewMy Club Lloyds review
* if you pay in £1,500 a month

The next three reward accounts

If you want to take it further you can open up three more reward accounts, each earning you £3 a month after fees. So there’s potentially £108 extra a year from these accounts.

These are definitely worth adding to or upgrading existing accounts you have with the banks to get the cash. But the smaller returns mean you need to weigh up whether you are happy to do the admin required to apply and then manage the accounts.

Barclays Blue*Natwest RewardRBS Reward
Reward£7.00£5.00£5.00
Fee£4.00£2.00£2.00
Monthly profit£3.00£3.00£3.00
Annual profit£36.00£36.00£36.00
Requirements includePay in £800 a monthTwo direct debits of at least £2Two direct debits of at least £2
Two direct debitsLog into mobile appLog into mobile app
*changing in March 2022

The final three rewards

These final accounts are for completists only and personally I’ve not bothered with them. They require minimum usage of your debit cards – 30 for each of the TSB accounts and 60 for the Co-operative Bank account. I think that’s too much hassle.

But if you want to go through with these then you’ll get an extra £80 in the first year. The TSB accounts can earn you cashback via Quidco, worth an extra £30 to £60 (and sometimes more) on the first one you open.

TSB Spend & SaveTSB Spend & Save PlusCo-operative Bank Everyday Rewards
Reward£5.00£5.00£2.20
Fee£0.00£3.00£0.00
* limited to six months
Monthly profit£5.00£2.00£2.20
Annual profit£30.00£24.00£26.40
Requirements include30 debit card transactions30 debit card transactions60 debit card transactions
Four direct debits
Pay in £800 a month
Keep balance above £0

Getting more as joint accounts

If you have someone you can open a joint account with then you can get the rewards again with a handful of the accounts.

It’s probably worth doing this for the Halifax and Club Lloyds accounts, earning an extra £102 a year. I think adding another TSB Spend & Save Plus account makes very little sense as that’s another 30 debit card transactions you’ll need.

Halifax RewardClub LloydsTSB Spend & Save Plus
Reward£5.00£3.50£5.00
Fee£0.00£0.00£3.00
Monthly profit£5.00£3.50£2.00
Annual profit£60.00£42.00£24.00
Requirements includePay in £1,500 a monthPay in £1,500 a month30 debit card transactions
Spend £500 on debit card
Keep balance above £0

Even more accounts for your partner

And if you’re opening accounts with someone else, they can obviously also open up their own accounts. It’s not quite the same list as for you as there’s no point having a second Santander 123 Lite account (you can’t earn cashback twice on your bills), which brings the most they’ll earn for opening a Halifax Reward, Barclays Blue, Natwest Reward, RBS Reward and Club Lloyds down to £210.

How much you can make?

Obviously it depends on how many accounts you open, and whether you’re also able to open up those extra joint accounts.

But sticking with those first six account will get you £270 a year. Add in a second (joint) Halifax Reward and Club Lloyds boosts that to £372.

And if the person you have the joint account with opens those same ones except for Santander 123 Lite, you’re looking at another £210 and a total of £582 a year.

If you wanted to go extreme and add in the TSB Spend & Save, TSB Spend & Save Plus and Co-operative Bank Everyday Rewards you could add on another £80 for your own accounts, and another £50 for joint accounts.

Andy’s analysis

These rewards are great ways to earn extra cash every year, and in the most part pretty easy to manage. But they’re only worth opening if you feel the return is enough.

That could mean you just stick with the first three accounts and only look at others if there’s an extra reason to open one, such as a bank switch offer.

Still, even I draw the line at the TSB and Co-operative Bank accounts. if you already have them and use them as your main account you might find it easy to meet the debit card transaction requirements. But I’d argue you’re better off switching that account to a different bank for a reward that takes less effort!

Meeting the reward requirements

I’ve said it’s easy to have more than one of these accounts, but you do have to make sure you meet the different requirements.

As I’ve written about elsewhere, this can be quite simple – even automated. Do read my full guide which also shares tips to help you find extra Direct Debits.

Make even more money from your bank

If you open up any of these accounts, make sure you also take advantage of other benefits. The Natwest and RBS accounts, for example, make you eligible for a 3.04% paying regular saver – and you can have one with each account.

And don’t forget the biggest earners – bank switching. You might want to wait for Halifax to offer a cash bonus for opening an account. In the past Natwest and Lloyds have let existing customers switch in for a bonus, so you might not have to wait to open those (though I can’t guarante it).